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Yes, you are right the cooling system should be adequate and has been for about 18 years😀 so something has happened or changed more recently. I reckon the fan is operating ok it comes on and stays on because it needs to. When the engine is stopped to let it cool the fan isn't running when you start it up later. Your radiator is clear inside and outside then something is generating more heat than normal. Did it do this before changing the gaskets?

The impeller should be solid on the shaft. Even when the engine is stopped the coolant will circulate ("Thermo Syphon") so long as the level is full. The main causes of heat and extra pressure are often due to combustion gasses leaking into the cooling system via a leaking head gasket or a leaking seal in the radiator cap not holding enough pressure so the coolant boils at a lower temp. To test the pump, you could try undoing the top rad hose and kick start the motor or briefly run it whilst holding your thumb over the end. Note it shouldn't be easy to stop the flow, but you are checking for good positive circulation. Hope this helps.

A 2004 pro clutch should use brake fluid. They changed in 05 / 06 and started putting a dark green top on the master cylinder to indicate it's changed to Mineral oil.

I don't think there's a definitive answer. A lot can depend on how you fall and all the conditions. I mean I've broken ribs and collar bone (separate crashes) while wearing full armour so it can still happen. I would say wear enough to make you feel confident and enjoy riding verses acceptable risk.

I got mine from Trials UK!

The lining in my old one became a bit tired after about 4 years, so I treated it to a new one. If you have to wear a helmet it's better to have one that you like, its vented, light weight and its comfy. The cost isn't as important.

I've recently bought another Airoh TRR. They are excellent helmets.

Here's something else to consider, how much and what type of grease? Thick heavy grease fully crammed in, This may stop crud getting in but the needles won't roll, then they get flats worn onto them so you've just converted them into bushes and are knackered. Thinner lighter grease fully crammed in. The excess could easily run out through the seals but the seals are there to stop crud getting in so they should operate just like bearings. They are not easy to clean and repack with fresh grease so this is a design issue, manufactures have stopped installing grease nipples which would allow you to pump fresh grease in and flushing out the old. Always use the same grease and never mix with other specs or brands, doing so can create problems, i.e. turn it fluid or turn it into solid wax or cause chemical reactions with the bearing materials.

Also the reason full compliment needle roller bearings are fitted with the numbers facing outward is because of the manufacture process. The roller shell is formed at one end and stamped with the number then heat treated and hardened. While the unformed end is left soft for when the needles are installed then the shell can be swaged over. this end remains softer which means it cannot withstand any impact force when inserting them.

I've just done a quick search and this came up "The Secure Shed Company" in Telford.

You don't say where you are! Yep get out there and enjoy.

The way you have described it, coolant cannot leak from between the crankcase halves.

You just need to start it moving. Try a hammer but usually I use a "Copper Knocker" as they don't bounce back instead they provide a dead hit meaning all the force is used. It's a bit of strange science but it works well.

Which country are you in? They are available in UK.

Great story and great achievement, I can't comment about how easy Bradford club trials are but I think you should give em a go. You have a lot of experience. If you like it then great, if you don't then at least you'll know for yourself. Its all about getting out on your bike. Manchester 17 run "Dead Easy" trials I would certainly recommend trying one.

I helped a friend with his 07 Pro that had Ducati electrics and no spark, We changed the regulator first but ended up replacing the CDI box which fixed the issue. We got the parts from GGUK now called John Shirt Motorcycles. You need to be sure its what you need before buying them because they are pricey, They cannot be returned once they've been unwrapped and fitted.

My 04 has Kokusan electrics with separate units (CDI & Coil) where as the Ducati electrics have an integrated CDI & Coil all in the same box. If you have Kokusan you could do this check before spending a lot of money. Test the CDI box by taking the +ve wire off the ignition coil and fit a test lamp between it and the frame, Take the sparkplug out so the engine will spin easier using the kick start spin the engine over, this test should hopefully make the test lamp flash if the CDI box is sending a signal to the coil. If it flashes then the coil is suspect! If it doesn't flash then the CDI is suspect and more expensive!

I thought the boots were the same for each (mineral oil or fluid) you have a mineral oil master cyl. I use a socket to push the boot in rather than chasing it around with a couple of screwdrivers.

I fitted an Apico lanyard kill switch. It was a direct replacement for the standard one.

I used a piece of tube to fit over the stem to knock the lower bearing on. Be sure the tube only contacts the bearing race and not the roller cage.

11/39 is very high geared. Standard over here is 10/42T. which is what I currently use.

🤣 If it's any consolation I don't do it on purpose! The housings are not too hardy but reassuringly expensive, I hope you can figure out a good fix for it because last time I saw the price of one over here it were £70. about half that of a full unit .😮

Which O-Ring? the only one on mine is between the pump and the engine casing but that is to seal oil. There is a clear coloured flat gasket (not an O-ring) under the flange of the brass bush. I fitted this dry on mine and it doesn't leak but a friend did have one he couldn't stop leaking and it was because the body had an almost invisible tiny crack after being attacked by a rock.

Those kinks or dents are caused by the lower fork yoke hitting the frame in a crash.

"Renthal" make them in 9, 10 & 11 tooth, part number 429-520-11P 429 fits all Gasser trials models from 2002 onwards, 520 is the chain size and the last 2 figures are the No of teeth.