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collyolly

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About collyolly

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  • Bike
    Ariel

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    NW Kent

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  1. When you say restoration due you mean to standard spec or to modern day riding, those shocks look period modern ones don't.
  2. Hi, just got some time back on the bike after a long lay off ( holiday ) Followed the advice given and fitted an original air screw, re set the float height as I feel it was a bit on the low side after reading the Internet, put the needle back up, fitted a new plug as it had some special fine wire electrode thing fitted. Starting has improved but still not one kick, could be my technique or is something else still not right ? Entered the dark side and fitted a flywheel weight, this has the effect of giving the starting kick a slight bit of extra momentum and does appear to help though still not as good as I think it should be. (Had GasGas bikes for 20 years so I know they can start ) After some discussion I decided to look at the reed valve assembly, it all looked O.K. apart from appearing to have an extra gasket fitted between the reed cage and the reed block. I do not think this is correct as the built in sealing face of the reed then sits inside the gasket and does not do anything, also on removing the assembly there appeared to be fuel across the whole face of the gasket so could have been a leak. Put together without the suspect gasket and the bike now starts quite easily, half a kick to load up the inlet and then a full kick once compression is found and away she goes. Just got some fine tuning to try now as it feels a bit rich off the bottom but that could of course be the lag effect of the flywheel. Anyone confirm the gasket fitment as I will leave it out if it's not needed
  3. collyolly

    Future of Gasgas

    Where's the smile, must be missing the smell and audio of a petrol engine !
  4. collyolly

    Future of Gasgas

    I must be bored I just read through this lot of xxxx, what's the latest on GasGas ?
  5. Squirt some 'easy start' or 'Cold start' into the back of the carb. Also try with a pre heated plug.
  6. Footpegs look a bit slippery ! I would think a fabricated bracket with modern mounts to enable grippy, foldable footpegs would be a good mod. Those pegs are probably illegal as far as modern trials are concerned ( ACU rules ) Perhaps fit the pegs slightly further back and lower, together with a set of bars with a higher lift would make the 'cockpit' feel less cramped and the bike would then become more manoeuvreable.
  7. collyolly

    part out or fix?

    Not sure I understand your situation, you have fixed the shift shaft pin ? but then say it's going to cost $600 to fix up, is that the cost of the cosmetics or having the shift shaft pin re-worked as well. If it runs and rides and it's just the cosmetics of the seat why not fix the seat, bit of fibre glass / plastic welding and your back in business. So it may not look perfect but it's a Trials bike and you may smash it up next time out anyway. I spent around £250 on a lovely paint job on my pre65 fibreglass tank ( got talked into having it done by a mates mate who was a perfectionist ) guess what , second time out I split it in a simple 'off ' , now I have an alloy tank that I painted myself. Fix it for penny's ride and enjoy.
  8. Many thanks for the info, your needle clip is as mine was originally now it's in the middle, but I don't think that would effect the starting do you ? What have you heard or experianced re the after market mixture screw ? Does it just not work correctly. Have you tried a flywheel weight, I had one on a 2009 250 and it made the starting easier but killed the throttle response I seem to remember I ended up reducing the mass by around 50%
  9. v1nn1e, I would have to disagree about the use of your clutch, find the bite point and use it, you will also find so much more time in the section if you use the clutch to control everything.
  10. Yes I have got the red (Jitsi) adjusters and the large capacity float bowl 'bolt' do these have any negative effect ? Nigel you say you moved the needle, but from where to where ? as I can't find out what the standard setting should be. My problem is it's a pig to start and felt very rich off the bottom, I would dearly love it to be a one kick starter rather than 3 or 5. I put it back together as my previous post it feels nice once started but the starting is an issue, any advice . I have been advised to leave the throttle alone when kicking , the previous owner had the tick over turned up, I assume to reduce the tendency to stall. I have the faith, it just needs sorting.
  11. Can you still buy an Ossa ?
  12. There would be a lot of embarressed riders at that event, we have a rider that turns up to our centre trials on an old Fantic and makes the intermediate route look like a main road so Mr Bou on a modified bike would be unstoppable on the sections we consider Expert.
  13. The Dabster, I Keep re-reading your first line and I have to disagree, it's the rider not the bike, you just cannot buy experiance.
  14. Many thanks for the prompt reply, I shall try the needle in the middle position,reset the float as it appears too high and give her another test ride.
  15. Hi all Recently got myself a 2017 250gp, feels like the carburation has been messed with so I am looking for advice on the standard or best revised settings for this model. I think the racing versions over the last couple of years may also have had a Keihin fitted. I am in the U.K. at not much above sea level. I have as follows Keihin PWK, 45 pilot, 125 main, No 3 slide, JJH needle with the clip fitted second groove up from the bottom ie richer mixture than middle groove, also any advice on setting the float height. many thanks
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