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bleeding the clutch


searay175
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I have been trying to resolve a dragging clutch. I flushed the line as the old fluid was nasty. The pin hole in the master cylinder was plugged and I have been able to get it open. I have tried the method as shown on utube but can only get any fluid up through the pinhole when I have the new master cyl kit just in the master cavity, as soon as I push it all the way in and put the c-clip on I can not possibly force and fluid through the line and master cyl like they show. Has anyone had this problem? It is on a 92 320

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I have been trying to resolve a dragging clutch. I flushed the line as the old fluid was nasty. The pin hole in the master cylinder was plugged and I have been able to get it open. I have tried the method as shown on utube but can only get any fluid up through the pinhole when I have the new master cyl kit just in the master cavity, as soon as I push it all the way in and put the c-clip on I can not possibly force and fluid through the line and master cyl like they show. Has anyone had this problem? It is on a 92 320

I'm assuming that the M/C piston is returning completely back to the stop at the circlip, uncovering the bleed hole to the reservoir. If you have the lever attached and the adjustment screw in too much that bleed hole will be closed off and fluid won't make it to the reservoir.

I'd try re-installing the old components and see if fluid comes up into the reservoir. It might be that the new kit is for a different M/C and the piston shaft is too long, which will not allow the seal to come back far enough to uncover the bleed hole and open the system.

Jon

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Thanks Jon! If I may add a few more symptoms to the issue. Before attempting to bleed the clutch it was not possible to pull in the clutch lever and roll the bike if it was in gear with the motor dead. If the motor was running it would want to creep forward but with a increase in rpm that would go away. Jim Snell informed me that the small hole in the resivor is quite small I used a pin to open it but may try a tip cleaner drill if I find one. I did not pull the slave cyl apart but I did remove it from the motor and pressed the piston in to remove the old fluid, maybe I have air trapped in there? Any more help and ideas would be great as I want to only go to the discs and plates at last resort.

Thanks! Steve

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Thanks Jon! If I may add a few more symptoms to the issue. Before attempting to bleed the clutch it was not possible to pull in the clutch lever and roll the bike if it was in gear with the motor dead. If the motor was running it would want to creep forward but with a increase in rpm that would go away. Jim Snell informed me that the small hole in the resivor is quite small I used a pin to open it but may try a tip cleaner drill if I find one. I did not pull the slave cyl apart but I did remove it from the motor and pressed the piston in to remove the old fluid, maybe I have air trapped in there? Any more help and ideas would be great as I want to only go to the discs and plates at last resort.

Thanks! Steve

Hi I'm having a problem bleeding my clutch on my 96'jtr 370. I'm not able to push the fluid up through the master cylinder either. Where is the small hole exactly? Thanks

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Hi I'm having a problem bleeding my clutch on my 96'jtr 370. I'm not able to push the fluid up through the master cylinder either. Where is the small hole exactly? Thanks

Blot the fluid out of the reservoir and you'll see the bleed holes (there are sometimes two about 2mm apart, a very small hole in front and a larger one next to it). Try taking the lever off and pull back the rubber boot to make sure the piston shaft is retracting fully back to the circlip (there is a collar that rests against the circlip). Some of the earlier M/C's had a problem with the spring in front of the seal sacking or breaking, which meant the seal would not retract back enough to uncover the bleed hole.

The 370 was one of my previous bikes, fun to ride.

Jon

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Blot the fluid out of the reservoir and you'll see the bleed holes (there are sometimes two about 2mm apart, a very small hole in front and a larger one next to it). Try taking the lever off and pull back the rubber boot to make sure the piston shaft is retracting fully back to the circlip (there is a collar that rests against the circlip). Some of the earlier M/C's had a problem with the spring in front of the seal sacking or breaking, which meant the seal would not retract back enough to uncover the bleed hole.

The 370 was one of my previous bikes, fun to ride.

Jon

Thanks for the info. It is a fun bike to ride. Would be allot more fun if I could get the clutch to work. :)

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Thanks for the info. It is a fun bike to ride. Would be allot more fun if I could get the clutch to work. :)

I feel your pain! My old 320 runs well except for the clutch. I am going to pull the slave cylinder apart and clean any nasty old stuff out of there and fill the cavity full of fluid before pushing the piston back in and bleed it again. if still no luck I will pull the clutch and checked for warped discs.If I do find a warped plate could I use one from a different clutch pack? I have a used set that still look to have some useful life left.

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