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TY250 Twinshock Forks


250yam
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The forks on my TY250 have quite a lot of pitting, although not really deep, the seals are gone and it seems futile to replace them and try a bodge fix on the stanchions.

So, what's the best option? Re-chroming? Front Wheel could also do with rebuilding with new spokes if that has any bearing on the matter?

I'm only just getting into trials, so not looking for all out performance, but want the bike right, at least to original standards.

Cheers

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I have heard philpotts are good for renovating pitted and bent forks, only quoting as a possible second opinion (or price !) pittedforks.co.uk (I think)ps thanks for link to paul jackson re wheel building (been wanting that info for a while)

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Cheers chaps, very useful info, had seen Philpots (Pitted Forks) website, but nice to get some feedback from people who've used them, and dynasurf, think I'll give them both a ring tomorrow and see how we go.

I'm undecided whether to get the bike to an alright usable state for now and see if I can ride the thing any good or not (probably sensible), or go for a more thorough restoration, but the forks aren't gona hold oil as they are, and if the wheel needs straightening, has a spoke missing and the ones left are rusty seems I may as well have all new spokes. Suppose the rest of the forks will get tarted up while they're apart, so that's the front end about sorted, and then the rest will be in need of some attention.

I've replaced some service parts, plus throttle cable, grips and levers already, got a few more small bits on their way too.

Who do you all use for bits? JK Hirst and Trail & Trials I've used so far, anywhere else to rival them?

Cheers

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For a manual try www.computeroutpost.com.au - they used to sell the Cycleserv manual covering the TY250B model, close enough to the E model for general restoration work. Cost $51 (australian dollars) to buy and ship to the UK.

To dismantle your forks, drain the oil and use an air impact gun to loosen and remove the bottom damper tube allen bolt before you remove the top caps and springs. Once there is no weight on the damper tube it can just spin as you try to unscrew the bolt, so having some spring tension in there stops it spinning.

There's loads of stuff in the archives about TY forks and how to dismantle etc.

For parts try www.Francetrialclassic.com/uk and also www.yamaha-majesty.com who do trick fork caps with preload adjustment and modified damper tubes etc.

Best of luck.

Rich

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