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trialsrfun

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About trialsrfun

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  1. 11 - 42 is what I run I find it spot on.
  2. Paul Jackson look on the Yorkshire Classic website for his contact details. Wheel Building, Replica frames, cub PVL mounting and sprocket covers, general machining. Paul Jackson 01422 378 100
  3. First thing is to replace the O rings in the carburettor float bowl, you will see them when you remove the float bowl.
  4. Stand at side of front wheel, I then place my fingers over the twist grip while hooking my thumb over the front brake lever and squeezing the brake on, hold the brake on then with your right hand hold the wheel spokes at the three oclock position by the rim and pick the wheel off the ground and into rack like a one handed wheelbarrow. That's one end secured in the rack then lift the back wheel in however works best for you.
  5. This topic has been both interesting and thought provoking with some great information. With regard to carb venturi shape and size some I have seen have a sort of keyhole or upside down pear shape for presumably faster airflow at minimal slide openings, might this design offer any advantage for trials use?
  6. Going slightly off topic the exhaust system is a Mayfield expansion chamber. Back to the forks which are actually leading link not Earles type, if you are considering getting some leading link forks made then best to contact a frame builder, maybe look in Old Bike Mart
  7. The leading link forks fitted to your Starmaker engined Royal Enfield are called 'Earles type' lots about them here http://www.vk6fh.com/vk6fh/earlesfork.htm
  8. https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/universal-rear-trials-plastic-mudguard-many-colours/ These are the ones I fitted You may be okay with this type https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/universal-long-stilmotor-pair-mudguards-grey/ These are full length, they have a slower curve then the Goneli These https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/universal-translucent-plastic-mudguards/ were on their stand at Telford in February and looked good, the rear is a little shorter than the stilmotor but that is a long guard so this rear guard could possibly be a good fit for your OSSA. The mudguard mountings on the bike are normally 6mm diameter I drill the guards 5.5mm then use 5mm bolts it allows for a bit of adjustment.
  9. For my bike pictured above I used two of the short mudguards sold by in motion Bultaco. You will need to trim the length of the lower guard to get the right length.
  10. Telesco were often fitted to Montesa
  11. This set up is correct the cable inner wire pear nipples hooks into the bracket on the frame then when the pedal is depressed the lever on the brake pedal shaft moves rearward pushing the outer toward the back of the bike. Because the outer is anchored on the brake plate this movement transfers to a pull of the inner cable which applies the brake.
  12. trialsrfun

    Sherpa Brakes

    When the bike was new both hubs had a chrome braking surface but with time the chrome finish sometimes came away. The fix was and is still to machine in a metal liner often cast iron but sometimes stainless steel which has a surface like you describe.
  13. I fitted this http://www.upbuk.co.uk/shop/clutch/100-4-plate-evo-clutch.html to my Cub along with the alloy pressure plate and it works well
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