AlanC

ok thank you all. Time to give it a test so.

Hi folks, Trying to fix an old JT 250. Any idea why the clutch wont seem to disengage, even with a new set of clutch plates? Clutch pressure plate seems to be lifting when the clutch is pulled. How much in mm should it be lifting? Is it possible that cold sticking plates could be locking together? Or is there anything else that could be broken and causing the lock? Thanks Alan

Thank you Faussy, Thats what I was trying to figure out. I have enough room on the bike, so that's fine. Rear grip seems to be good, but had a few front end slides in mud, so maybe forward would be a better position. Only experimenting will tell.

Thanks, but what is the difference? Or what is the effect of changing them?

Hi Folks, Just wondering before I experiment with it, what's the theory on changing the peg positions on the RR? It's only 5mm either forward or back (and a bit of height change as its at an angle). Does the change of peg position make that much of a difference, or is it just a marketing gimmick? Thanks Alan.

Anybody know which way up the shock in a 95 JT 250 should be, or does it even matter. I think when I removed it, the blue damping adjuster was at the top of the shock, and the preload adjuster at the bottom. Is this correct. And has anyone rebuilt one of these, ie. drilled and tapped the body of the shock to replace the oil? Thanks in advance, Alan.

Well thanks everyone for all the help. I got the tyre on properly, did a trial today and the tyre was fine. Turns out the main problem was not using proper tyre soap, beading wax, whatever you want to call it. I bought some, put a ton of it on the tyre inside and out, and it popped at about 60/70 psi I think, with the valve stem removed, after 3 goes of pumping it up. Pity I wasn't good enough today to warrant a new tyre. Ah well, maybe next time. At least it's bedded in now! Thanks Alan

Thanks for all your replies. Made a few calls today, and the general consensus is that I had enough pressure, and just need a ton of proper tyre soap, and a bit of time for the bead to work itself on. Its an old wheel, so more patience will probably help too. Alan

Thank for the replies folks. I was using a proper air line with a big compressor so no shortage of air, and I had the valve core removed too. Thats why I was wondering why it wouldn't pop. But I didn't have the nerve to go to 110 psi. and I didn't try WD40 either. But I did try bouncing the tyre on the ground with 70 psi in it, but it didn't work. Thanks Alan

Hi Folks, Just looking for an easy solution to this problem if there is one. How much pressure is it safe to use to get a new trial tyre onto the rim? Rear tyre, tube fitted due to air leaking at the spokes even though a seal is fitted, lots of soapy water used. Used 70lb of pressure but last bit of the tyre still won't pop onto the rim properly. Tries valve out and in, and tried using the rubbery bead seal thing that should pop out when the tyre is on. Plan B will be to refit the old tyre if I can't figure it out! Thanks Alan

Thanks for the replies folks. Testing the shock with no spring on it would be good idea. But I wouldn't know how much damping it should have in the first place. It's old, and I'm just pottering about on it for fun at the moment. I've did it up a bit, so I'll try it and if it has no grip and can't get up the hills, I'll know its the shock as its the only thing I haven't done.

Hi folks, Can someone tell me this.. Do shocks wear out on a trials bike? Or since the one I have would need to be drilled, are they like a standard road bike and just fade a bit. Or is the damping that important on them. Its an old Gasgas Thanks

Your tyre might be rubbing on the bolts because the wheel is not set straight in line. Just coz the rear wheel adjusters are on the same marks doesn't mean the wheel is exactly in line. You could also get a hacksaw and shorten the bolts.

Surely that timing rule is backwards. Would it not be easier to add points if you're over the time limit? Then chances are that nobody will ever get a zero and the maths would be easier. And there would only limited advantage to putting your foot down to speed up, coz you would still be getting points.

Before I start pulling things apart, is there any particular order I should try to remove a GG engine from the frame to weld a bit on it? Airbox, exhaust and carb already off. Should the bolts come out in any particular order? Its 26 years old now so I don't want to do something silly and break something that I can't replace.