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woody

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  1. Nowhere in the UK, available from Scooter Assassins in Taiwan from their ebay shop, but no longer the cheap option they were, now almost £100. Anything for sale in the UK for substantially cheaper are copies
  2. woody

    Ossa TR 77 Swinging Arm

    On the drive side of the arm is a threaded hole for a grease nipple, it aligns with a hole/slot in the spindle if the spindle is in the corresponding position. Is there a grease nipple fitted that has somehow locked the spindle - or a bolt that has been used to stop the spindle from spinning when undoing the spindle bolts, either of which might stop it being removed. I've never know plastic bushed to grip a spindle to the point it won't drift out. Are they definitely plaastic
  3. Yes, that's what all mine have come with
  4. It will work straight from the box as it comes, 112 main and 48 pilot, asses after trying it, then maybe drop the needle one notch and next size up on the pilot jet if needed Assuming it's a genuine OKO
  5. I've used this, I've had a flooding carb pour petrol all over the engine, no issues - unlike PJ1 which petrol washed straight off RHT high temp paint - ebay
  6. Definitely nothing to do with it being a Bultaco, they're like any other bike, Jap or otherwise. If you can't freely slide the pin through the bearing when it is in the rod then something is wrong Maybe someone has built the crank by sourcing individual parts instead of buying a Bultaco rod kit and the ID of the rod for the small end is undersize. I bought a Sherpa project a couple of years ago with a rebuilt engine (by a ''mechanic'' supposedly) and the conrod wouldn't freely spin in the crank, it was stiff. Splitting the crank revealed it wasn't a proper rod kit and the bearing used was incorrect. Rebuilt with a proper kit and problem solved
  7. It isn't a press fit into the rod, it should push in easily by hand and the piston pin should pass thorugh the bearing freely by hand.
  8. woody

    Ossa TR 77 Swinging Arm

    Put one of the bolts back in to avoid damaging the end of the spindle and thread and then drift it out with a hammer and metal bar. It's virtuall impossible to remove the bushes themselves intact so just hammer an old screwdriver down the side of the bush and use it as a lever to deform it and it will just drop out. Use new bushes when reassembling. When powdercoating blank off each end to keep paint out
  9. woody

    Oil leak

    It could be leaking down the final drive sleeve gear. Early bikes had bronze bushes in the final drive gear to support the gearbox mainshaft, if they're worn oil from the gearbox could leak past. Later bikes had needle rollers and there is a small oil seal in the end of the final drive sleeve gear, again, if worn oil can get past Oil from the clutch can get into the pushrod tube inside the mainshaft but it's unusual for it to leak out from there The sleeve inside the final drive seal can also wear, the seal can wear grooves into it, so you could have leakage there. There is an O ring behind the sleeve but I'd be surprised if oil could leak between the mainshaft and bearing, even if the O ring was missing
  10. You don't need to split the engine for this, just remove the clutch cover and look on the gear shaft. There should be a circlip, a shim washer and a wave washer in that order from the inside outwards. When the case is fitted it sits against the wave washer which stops the shaft moving. If they aren't there, this is why the shaft can be pulled outwards. I'm not sure anyone in the UK would have the specific washers but all you need is to buy a thin washer and wave washer of the correct ID (probably have to buy them as small packs) and a circlip if that is missing too. Normally the circlip is there, people just forget to refit the washers Gary at Ossa Stuff might be able to help with the washers https://www.ossastuff.com/
  11. You don't say if you have just got the bike or whether this problem has just ocurred It's difficult to see how the clutch can cause this as if you select 1st gear ok without clutch drag causing the bike to jump forward then the clutch is working. In addition you don't need the clutch to change gear, if you ride off in 1st gear you can change up the gears without using the clutch, so the clutch shouldn't be the cause of the problem. It's hard to pin point a cause from what you describe but here are a couple of things to check that could be a cause, but if not it's likely to be internal. The Ossa gear lever has a long throw on it, check you don't have the lever position too high (angled upwards) If it is it's possible that when you try and engage 2nd it touches the kickstart and prevents it from fully engaging. It's best to set the lever horizontal, not angled. Also check that there is no end float on the gear shaft by holding the gear lever and pulling the shaft outwards - you shouldn't be able to as there is a wave washer held by a circlip on the shaft inside the case which stops the shaft moving outwards. If this is missing the shaft can float and if it is too far out the selector fork on the shaft loses contact with the selector drum so there is no selection. With the shaft correctly located the gear lever should be up against the case, there shouldn't be a significant gap. It's possible that when you're changing by hand with a dead engine you're holding the shaft in, whereas with the engine running and changing by foot the vibration of the running engine is moving the shaft outwards. When you try with the engine running make sure the shaft is fully 'home'. If you can select all gears by hand then the gearbox itself must be ok but also, there is no load on the gearbox components when you do it like this. It's possible that there may be some wear on the selctor fork or drum, or maybe the return spring itself which doesn't hamper selction by hand with a dead engine.
  12. All of the trials bikes had electronic up to the TR77 which went to points, then back to electronic on the Grippers. There are two types of electronic and the firing point pick-up is in a different location on each. On MK1 MAR and early MK2 the flywheel/stator have a small hole for the pin to set the timing at about 8 o'clock and the stator is a hexagonal shape, from about 1974/5 the later round type was fitted with the timing position at about 5 o'clock, so the flywheel and stator have to be the same type. If you look at just a flywheel on its own, with the keyway at 12 o'clock you see the small hole for the pin in the flywheel face in the positions mentioned. The electronic or points systems can be fitted to any of the MAR / TR77 / Gripper, the crank taper and stator fixing are the same on all, just the correct combination of flywheel/stator is needed There was a flywheel on ebay a couple of days or so ago which I think was the later type although I noticed on In Motion they state the later type ignition is no longer available, not sure why as I thought it would be the same set up, just a different position for the pick up You could try Martin Rickman as he has used MAR parts, you can find him on facebook under that name or this is his website https://www.idleride.co.uk/?fbclid=IwAR2NXBx1sRRmAfMsfOYEsqIWzeQG9NxHNjS32jWA2FcnggLmipw2KSfKFNw Or maybe Gary Warr who runs Ossa Stuff in the UK might have something, he races Phantoms but might have used MAR parts https://www.ossastuff.com/
  13. I don't have one loose to measure now but I think the 221 crank is too big to fit an M80 as the 221 is a sleeved down later 250 motor and the cranks from around '75 onwards are a bigger diameter, 250 and 325 In Motion is worth a try as they have a lot of cranks, either full or halves
  14. I've tried several chain manufacturers here and none can match the size, even Regina who used to make them, You can still buy a Joresa chain from dealers in Spain and also France Trial Classic sell them
  15. woody

    199b clutch

    Has it got the original steel plates or a fibre clutch. Fibre clutch will make the clutch pack thicker and put more space between the adjuster and mushroom meaning the adjuster has to be screwed in further
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