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About woody

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    Birmingham UK

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  1. woody

    Petrol tanks

    Common answer is petrol but if you look at the underneath of the tank is that discoloured too? Usually not, my SWM tank was still perfect yellow underneath and also under the tank badges if they were removed, whereas all surfaces touched by sunlight went darker.The entire tank surface should be affected if it's caused by petrol shouldn't it? Ultra violet from sunlight discolours plastic, just look at garden furniture or kids toys like slides, plastic bikes, swings etc. If these tanks seeped petrol vapour like they're said to, if you left one in a closed garage for any length of time it should reek of petrol, so why don't I smell any?
  2. woody

    350 MAR

    No is the short answer and I've no idea how or why claims like that originate. Not a full 350, only 302cc so no Bultaco 325 type power on tap but noticeably more than the 250 which is fairly flat. It will pull 2nd or 3rd gear better where the 250 struggles. Later TR77 versions supposedly have sharper porting than the white bikes but never tried one so can't comment. Mine is the first model from 1975 and is a nice bike to ride. Just shave a few ounces off the ignition flywheel for quicker pick up if needed
  3. woody

    Sherpa 350 Tank Problem

    KIA series in the Spanish class - just me and Chris Myers on Bultacos The rest seem to be facebook queens...
  4. woody

    Cota 247 Primary Drive Gear Puller?

    I have one of these kits and it worked fine to remove the drive gear on my 247 https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht249-14-pce-bearing-separator-angle-ge/
  5. woody

    Ossa MAR ..restoration advice please!

    The shock bolts are normal M6 on the earlier bikes, MK1 2 and 3, they went to M7 on the green bikes Strangely, the fork yoke bolts are M7 on the earlier bikes and changed to M6 on the later bikes... Fitting the engine, I've never been able to fit one with the barrel in place, or remove it. I take the barrel off before removing and fit it after the engine is back in the frame - I could never do a rubik cube either...
  6. woody

    Ossa MAR ..restoration advice please!

    Ford silver fox used around 1970 is a good match but not sure where you can get that now unless a local paint shop can mix you an aerosol for it. I don't know the RAL code. NOTE - If you use Halfords paint it will dissolve at the merest touch of petrol, it will need a coating of petrol proof lacquer otherwise you'll be really peed off with the outcome. And whereas Halfords paint does spray very nicely and evenly out of the can and leaves a really nice finish, their petrol proof lacquer doesn't, it splutters out so you need to be very careful when applying it
  7. woody

    Ossa MAR ..restoration advice please!

    This is the same casing as Scotty's bike as all the MAR models had the same casing it's just that the one in your picture is in original condition. Many UK bikes had their casings modified with the slot cut in and the back end cut off to relieve mud build up and also to help hook the chain back on using the slot should it have come off the engine sprocket. See the casing in the picture on my bike. The back end of the case can also get smashed off by a chain derail and it's not uncommon for the bottom rear screw mount to be missing altogether. You're right about the mudguard brackets which is a good ID point but it looked as though it is missing in the picture. I was just meaning the basic frame is the same - on all MAR models in fact apart from the top shock mounts on MK3 and green bikes. I think the Verde also has the short swingarm and mudguard bracket I think Scotty's bike is a MK1 with replacement tank and panels rather than a bitsa, in which case the forks and wheels should be MK1 also
  8. woody

    Ossa MAR ..restoration advice please!

    It is a MAR. The MAR ran from '71 right through to '79 and changed little. The MK1 ran from '71 - '73. In '74 it became the MK2 MAR with a longer swingarm, bigger crank assembly and the inlet was changed for a push on not bolt on carb. Hubs changed (although externally looking the same apart from black, not polished) to take slightly bigger brake shoes. Green tank stripe changed from broad stripe from side to side to thinner stripe running lengthways. Biggest change came in '76 with the MK3 when it received angled shocks, longer forks and a longer front pipe. In '77 they changed it from silver frame with white tank and sidepanels to black frame with green tank and sidepanels and changed the rear silencer for an abortionate looking thing stuffed with wire wool. On the green bike the barrel got different porting (maybe) and in '79 the frame and mudguards also went green. It was referred to as the MAR throughout this time but I guess in reality the only true MAR was the MKI1 which ran from '71 - '73 as Mick Andrews had leftt for Yamaha by then. You have a MK1 or MK2 frame (they're the same) which would have been silver. If it has a frame number on the headstock which begins 340--- then it's a MK1. If there is no number it's probably still a MK1 as they usually had a sticker with the chassis number rather than it being stamped. The engine looks MK1 due to the split outer fin on the head and the inlet manifold with studs to take a bolt on carb - these could obviously have been changed in 40 odd years but again, the engine number will tell you as it will also begin 340--- if MK1. You need to know for an engine rebuild as the MK1 had a smaller crank than the following models and the crank pin is stepped. The later pin won't fit. The head is on back to front but it doesn't actually make a difference to the way it will run. The tank is from the last green model, it's not the original. The original would have been fibreglass and a different shape. From MK2 onwards the UK bikes had an alloy replacement, different from the original fibregloass shape, which was the same whether for the white and the green bikes, apart from the last all green bike where it had the extended front part like yours. Side panels also look as though they are from the green bike but there's not enough showing in the picture Bike below is a MK1 with a longer MK2 arm and MK2 barrel. The bottom picture is a MK2 but with the original fibreglass tank
  9. woody

    Ossa Pennine

    Anyone out there who owns, or knows someone who owns an Ossa Pennine trials. Alan Wright is looking for one to display at Telford in February, so if you have one that you're willing to show or know of someone that might be, then Alan would be keen to hear from you
  10. woody

    OZO Rear Shock Question

    Press in, just two cups and a ball, same as those in your picture apart from no extensions either side of the middle component for O rings. Mine are a few years old now but assuming they still use the same set up. I'm not familiar with the latter set up you mention but I don't think I actually know what a 'proper' spherical bearing actually is... When I showed my local bearing supplier the bearing/bush from my Magical shock (referring to it as spherical) to see if he could supply them he said no and that they weren't spherical bearings
  11. woody

    OZO Rear Shock Question

    Very similar to the bearings fitted to the Magical shocks, except those fitted to the pair I had didn't have the O rings. Had them fitted for a few years and didn't give any trouble, no wear etc
  12. woody

    OZO Rear Shock Question

    If they're being fitted to a MAR then the top shock mount is bigger (at 14mm if I remember - it's bigger anyway) than the bottom mount which is the more common 12mm The way I'd do it is to just fit a normal rubber bush with 14mm id to replace the rose joint bearing. Falcon do different size bushes and as B and J Racing Products in the US are Falcon agents, they'd probably provide some
  13. woody

    Footpeg Location

    Slight problem in that I can't post new photos stored on my PC - these were old photos I'd put on from years back and are already stored in TC somewhere. You can see the forward/back positioning from the photo above (not saying it's correct but works fine for me) and in terms of height they are just on spindle height. I was told by Mick Andrews years ago not to go any lower than that (at all, not just a MAR). I have two MARs and on one the riser is 10mm (just 10mm thick flat bar under the bottom bar mount) and on the other I don't have a riser as never got around to it. Both have 6" bars Apico do a bar riser kit which I've used on some bikes and it gives between 20 and 40mm increase. The bolts with the kit are no use as they are 8 x 1.25mm 7mm are hard to find but I bought some from ebay, or maybe just found some from the net, can't remember now. Or maybe you could tap them out to 8 x 1mm fine thread as they are easier to find
  14. woody

    Footpeg Location

    One of mine - just lower, not back or forward. I don't begin to understand any of that percentage gobbledygook.... sounds like over analysing to me... PS - brackets are braced behind if they don't look strong enough
  15. woody

    Footpeg Location

    I'm 6' 3" and had no problem at all with riding position on Ossas, Montesas and Bultacos back in their era for the simple reason they had at least 8" high bars then... So although the footrests were relatively high in comparison to modern bikes, the riding position was ok. The bars now are much lower and I am bent over far too much with standard footrest position - and a lot older... So I lower them - and use bar risers Back in the 70s on a 159 Bulto (pegs are quite low already on Sherpas so you can't lower them by much)