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  1. Put a picture of the bike on here or one of the facebook groups as it's a lot easier to identify the actual bike itself than from a frame number
  2. Unfortunately prefix 51 covers the 348 and entire 349 model range so without knowing which number range was used for which model you can't tell what it is from the number
  3. It doesn't sit too badly if they are the 610mm stanchions as I'd expect it to be more raked, but to ride they need to be raised in the yokes, or they steer like a barge - you can see how much room there is between the bottom yoke and mudguard for 6" of travel I wonder if it has shortened damper rods to compensate for the longer stanchions. Bit of a mystery nonetheless. The fork bottoms are correct for that bike
  4. Mine is an early bike so has the square tabs, wasn't sure about a different clutch on later 4 speed engines From your picture it looks as though there is something sitting between the casing and the basket. I can see the raised boss to the left but next to that is something else (immediately to the left of the basket teeth in the picture) what is that as it sits directly in the line with the crank sprocket, which is where the basket teeth should be You can tell straight away if the crank weight is in the wrong position as the tensioner wheel should be directly underneath the teeth, otherwise it would miss the chain
  5. Yes that's a TR77 Verde, the number run begining 70 for the 250 isn't listed on the Ossa reference sheets The MAR had shorter forks up until 1976 when the MK3 was introduced with laid down shocks and forks which were about 2" longer and these forks were also fitted to TR77 and Gripper - 2" is about 52mm which ties in with the length of the different stanchions sold by In Motion which differ by 50mm. (The part number for the stanchions is the same for MK3 MAR and TR77) I don't know which model, if any, uses 610mm stanchions, maybe one of the motocross or enduro models Normally on the MK3 MAR, TR77 and Grippers, the forks are raised by about 2" through the yokes as they are too long and give the bike a stance like a chopper. In the photo yours looks to sit level even though the forks aren't raised. With stanchions 1" longer again you'd expect the bike to sit really high at the front, but maybe it's an illusion die to camera angle
  6. Has the woodruff key been pushed backwards and is sitting partly up in its slot which is preventing the huib and basket fully locating. That basket is too far out, the outside edge should be somewhere near in line with the edge of the weight The only thing behind the hub should be the top hat spacer which locates in the seal You really need to pull the clutch off, remove the key and push the hub on to ensure it sits right up against the spacer Weights are generally interchangeable as long as the number of teeth and pitch is right as they differ on some models. I have a weight from a much later M158 engine on my M10 I'm not aware of any difference in clutches on M10 but someone else may know differently
  7. They fitted a through shaft for the gear change in 1975 on the new M158/159 models, giving the option of a left hand gear change. To have the brake pedal on the right needed a cable to operate the brake but there was no provision on the frames to mount one so owners would have had to sort their own. In 1977 with the M198/199 model Bultaco released them from the factory with left hand gear change and right hand brake with cable - owners could still change to right hand gear change and left hand brake if they wanted to
  8. For a full engine rebuild it will top £600 in parts plus cost of crank build and rebore. If it needs a primary chain you'll have to source one from outside UK as there are non here. The cycle parts will also add cost but it depends on how far you want to go in terms of finish - eg: you don't have to get frame repainted but to do it could be between £100 and £200 depending on finish, powder coat, sprayed, enamelled etc. Fork chrome, chrome in hubs, state of wheels, tyres, cables, bars. levers etc etc. You can easily be up to £1500 in rebuild costs depending on what needs doing and how far you go. Plus the cost of the actual bike unless you're being given it. If you're doping it to keep and use the cost doesn't really come into it but should you need to sell it on it's unlikely you'd get all of your outlay back. They have a ceiling in terms of what they're really worth. To buy a bike, there are loads of Sherpas for sale but the asking prices for many are way over value which is why most have been on sale for months and years, some people asking between £2-3000 for something really worth about £1000, sometimes less. Some of them look ok but when you actually examine closely, things like the tyres, shocks etc they aren't any use for trials riding, similarly the engine might run but need attention, hub linings, cables might all need attention, exhaust repacking, so more outlay on what's an overpriced ornament in the first place. There are decent bikes out there, you just have to be carefull in what you buy For registering, was it ever registered originally? If so there is a facebook page 'vin to reg' who will use the frame number to find the original reg number if there is one, if they do you then just apply for the V5 using a V62. If there is no trace you have to go through the new registration process and apply for an age related plate as a historic vehicle. Lots of info on this in the Road Legal forum
  9. They were replacements for the slimline one piece fibreglass tank/seat unit. Fitted from 1973 - 75 in UK only due to fibreglass tanks being banned for road use
  10. The M10 has the double weight as standard but these are interchangeable with the single weight as the fit on the crank is the same - as long as it has the same pitch and teeth number. Your problem looks to be the basket which is sitting too far out. There is a top hat spacer that sits in the oil seal on the mainshaft and the basket and hub sit up against the spacer and when fully home the sprockets line up. There looks to be something sititng behind the basket in your picture? Is the correct spacer fitted. It's easy to see if the front sprocket is aligned as the tensioner wheel should be in direct alignment with it
  11. Nowhere if it's a complete kickstart you want. In Motion sell the knuckle but only for the coarse spline shaft. If you want a complete lever it's a case of looking for a used one - Telford show maybe or put a wanted post on the Vintage Ossa facebook group The modern day Dick Turpin in Spain, Frankie Mountain, has a new old stock Phantom klickstart if you'd like to part with £300 plus post.....
  12. You can't apply for a V5 if it never had one. If you send a V62 with no reg number, if you're luck they'll check against the chassis number to see if it has an associated reg number and if it does they're supposed to write the registered keeper to notify them they've received a request for the V5, they shouldn't just issue it, but probably do. If it doesn't have a reg numbere they just send you your form and cheque back Try the ''vin to reg'' service on facebook, they'll search the chassis number to see if it has a registration It's a Honda Montesa, not Matisse
  13. Contact the club as it could be the way they've set the entry up on sport80
  14. First you have to complete a NOVA declaration with HMRC When done, complete a V55/5 and send to DVLA - to do this you will also need a dating certificate from a club or organisation approved by DVLA to issue such a certificate. This is to prove the age of the bike in order to get an age related registration number For bikes over 40 years old you won't need an MOT, nor do you need insurance. If it's less than 40 years old (as at April 2023) you will need and MOT and tax. Over 40 years old the tax class on the V55 is Historic Vehicle For a Montesa Honda finding someone to issue a dating certificate might be difficult (Honda UK won't do one as it's not really a Honda) You can look in this forum as there are many topics on this subject https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/forum/76-road-legal-mot-insurance-etc/ Or you could get one of the agents who specialise in this to do the whole process for you. Or speak to VMCC in Burton Upon Trent and see what advice they can give as they can issue dating certificates. Your bike should have a plate fixed to the headstock with the chassis number and maybe the date of manufacture as well
  15. Ignition contact breaker points. The stator on your bike has no contact breaker, it's elctronic ignition. What are you replacing your stator with?
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