Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About woody

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Birmingham UK

Recent Profile Visitors

17,797 profile views
  1. woody

    Yamaha Pinky

    i Don't know who this question goes to but if you see this Knobbly can you provide a phone number or any other means of contact. I have a friend who is interested in the bike but no way to contact you. TC messaging says you can't receive messages so I can't contact you either
  2. Tried to send you a message but it won't send.  Is the TY still for sale? A friend of mine who isn't a TC member saw your ad and is interested. If it is can you let me have a contact number as there isn't one on the ad -  or you could email any pictures you have direct to him - Colin  email address     leese898@btinternet.com

    Thanks, Dave

  3. woody

    73 Mar 250 gearbox

    Not sure which needle roller bearings you mean? The MK1 mainshaft runs on normal roller bearings and the layshaft runs in bushes. On later MAR, TR77 on, maybe MK3, the layshaft runs in needle rollers rather than bushes but they won't work with the earlier gearbox as the shafts are different lengths and diameters on early / late boxes, even though they look identical side by side In all gearboxes there is a needle roller under the 1st gear cog on the layshaft - I've never had to change one of these as never seen one worn. There are two that the final drive sleeve gear on the mainshaft runs on. Never had to change these either. None of them have serial numbers that I've ever seen so you'd need to measure and obtain from a bearing stockist if you want to replace if none of the old Ossa dealers in the US stock them. Not aware of anyone in the UK or Europe that does
  4. woody

    Rear drum brake hub liner removal

    Yes, as above, there is a thin cover plate that fits over the spoke heads, just prise it off. It's probably stuck on with a bit of corrosion
  5. woody

    Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed

    Once you start tinkering with these babies, you have to hoard.... re: front wheel, the spindle diameter is larger on the older type wheel so to fit the later wheel you'll need the later spindle and need to sleeve the spindle housing in the forks, maybe just on the brake side, but can't remember. Just a thought, if you can find a later type torque arm they have an extension for the outer cable locator which is a bolt on part, as there is no lug on the brake plate on the later wheel, With that, you might be able to reverse the brake arm if that's what you want to do. Not something I've ever done on my own bikes but I understand the point s/s was making
  6. woody

    Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed

    The front end is the same on M27 49 and 80 so it would suit any of those for someone wanting an original set up. Some later bikes also ended up with the tapered forks as well. At least with that front brake you won't have the problem of chrome peeling off
  7. woody

    Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed

    Re: front tbrake set up - the front end is from an early bike like the M80
  8. woody

    Swingarm ID

    From what I can see of it, it looks like the hub used on the Sherpas from 1975/6 M159 up to the last 199b model. Off the top of my head I don't know the diameter. I'm not familiar with Alpinas so don't know what hubs they had, but don't think they used hubs like that. There should be a steel ring plate cover that fits over the spoke ends and is held in place by the sprocket
  9. woody

    Swingarm ID

    Not production, someone has added those messing with shock position. The original mounting point is still there with the big headed slot screw. It also has the later type wheel, the 151 had the Pursang type split hub. Nothing wrong with the later wheel of course, smaller and neater hub. Make sure the chrome lining is intact in the hub and check the bearing housing on the brake side as they can wear leaving a loose fitting bearing and if it is slack allowing the bearing to move or 'chatter' a bit, the housing can crack and open up rendering it useless and needing repair
  10. woody

    Drayton Bantam

    MZ forks
  11. woody

    M151 engine teardown

    The Haynes manual should give you all of the info you need for your bike as the early 70s 5 speed models are pretty much the same. The bike pictured on the front cover is actually a 151 If you look for another cylinder it has to be from the early 325, models 92, 125 or 151. The cylinder was a new design from 159 onwards and won't interchange with the earlier engines
  12. woody

    Drayton Bantam

  13. woody

    Drayton Bantam

    The Drayton frames aren't actually that light (they aren't sold as such either) The frame for my C15 is a fair bit heavier than the Faber frame I had before. But standard Bantam frames aren't that heavy either, I've ridden a Bantam with original frame (I don't mean a standard bike, still modified) and the Drayton and there's little in it, Alan Whitton's Cub that I tried a few years ago was around 160/170lbs I think, so a Bantam is going to be very near that taking into account the Cub frame is probably lighter but the engine heavier than the Bantam A sad subject at the moment though as Drayton builder Jim Pickering passed away last night after his battle with cancer. A lovely bloke who will be very much missed in these parts
  14. woody

    Betor forks of Bultacos

    Not sure if I can explain it any better than I have but whatever colours you find on those frames, you're asking what the original colour was for a 198 and that is silver. Remember how old those frames are, they may have been blasted clean of paint in the past and repainted any colour, and more than once. Originally, the B was white, the A was blue and the rest were silver (excepting the smaller capacity models)
  15. woody

    Betor forks of Bultacos

    I'm not sure hammerite keys very well to aluminium. I used smoothrite spray on a frame once and it chipped easily, which is the very thing I thought it wasn't supposed to do. If you're looking to paint your frame the original colour, the only Sherpa to have a white frame was the B model 198/199. The 198/199A was bllue, the rest were all silver