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About woody

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    Birmingham UK

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  1. I'm not sure what information it is you're looking for now? Glass's guide won't give you anything you don't have already. If it is a 150 which I'm assuming it is from your picture, but you haven't confirmed, then that's all you need for dating it. The other possibility is the previous model, a model 124 but I think 150. It's just that at some point someone has fitted a later tank, probably because the original got smashed or perished - not unusual for a 40 year old trials bike to get altered. Whether it was a UK bike originally doesn't matter, a model 150 is a model 150 and they are all the same wherever the factory sent them, it's just that the UK importer swapped the tank unit for the alloy one due to UK law prohibiting the use of fibreglass tanks on the road. All Spanish trials bikes from '73 on had alloy tanks fitted in the UK. You see the bracket on the frame upright going up to the top of the rear shock? That's where the original tank/seat unit fastens, there's another on the other side. On the top tube at the front of the tank there should be a threaded stud that secures the front of the original tank which is either hidden underneath the tank or has been cut off to accomodate the later tank VMCC won't date a bike for you unless you become a member If you're going to try and re-register it on an age related plate you may have an issue with DVLA as they will probably want a picture of the bike from both sides and maybe to inspect it and if they are on the ball and realise that it has a later tank fitted they could deem it modified and who knows where that could go with DVLA
  2. The tank on yours is from a later blue model, the 199a from 1979. This style tank was introduced on the last red bike, the 199 in 1978. The tank fitted to the 150 is as per the pictures I put up earlier, It was the last Sherpa fitted with the one piece tank seat unit. The next model, the 158/159 had a seperate tank and seat with seperate side panels. The tank on this Sherpa and on the 182/183 and 190/191 was similar to yours but not the same as it didn't taper towards the rear like yours. These three models were pretty much identical From new none of the bikes had a brace on the handlebars in the early to mid 70s, these were introduced later on. The blue bike in the picture was mine and had modern renthals fitted This link will give you pictures of how the factory produced the bikes. As mentioned before the model 150/151 for the UK had a one-off alloy tank in blue/silver and white mudguards not alloy so you won't find factory pictures for that. If you want to see what that looked like check ebay and search for the Haynes manual for Bultaco as it is the bike on the front cover http://cemoto.tripod.com/bultaco.htm
  3. More accurately, a model 150 was produced late 1974 to probably mid 1975 and was then replaced by the next model which was visually very different. From the factory the 150 had a fibreglass one piece tank/seat unit like this: For the UK this was replaced at import with an alloy one piece tank/seat unit like this, as fibreglass had been made illegal for road use: The next model had seperate tank and sidepanel units with a tank similar to yours
  4. The frame number will date it which is on the headstock, I'd guess it's a model 150 from 1975 with a later model tank fitted. If you send the frame and engine numbers to In Motion who are Bultacoi specialists they will provide a dating certificate. Why do you want the certificate, to register it ? https://www.inmotiontrials.com/
  5. Can't help with jetting, Mikunis have too many variables for me to sort out and there is no base setting for a MAR to even start with, so I don't use them. However, might be worth checking which head gasket you have fitted as they range in thickness from 3mm down to about 0.5mm. A MAR isn't the liveliest of bikes anyway, if you snap the throttle it's never going to leap out of your hands, but if you have the 3mm fitted you could go own to a 1mm which should improve pick up. I;m assuming your crank seals are good and timing is ok (you can advance to 3mm BTDC)
  6. Putting it against a wall and slamming it into gear, which is what you'd have to do, is not a good idea. It's the same as having a working clutch and putting it against a wall and slamming it into gear without using the clutch. You could damage the gearbox. If it didn't mash the gears all it will do is spin the wheel. Putting it into gear and rocking it, or riding it round with the clutch engaged until it frees will only work if it is not stuck fast. I've had a TYZ Yamaha with a sticking clutch with the same behaviour as yours and sometimes it could take 10 - 15 minutes of riding by snapping the throttle and bouncing the suspension to free it off. Then one day it wouldn't free off at all and the only cure was to strip it, clean off all the plates and reassemble and it hasn't done it since (ie; cleaning the grooves between each fibre pad and cleaning the pads with brake cleaner and wire brush to remove impregnated oil) As yours is a recurring problem, each time you leave it, if it was mine I'd pull the plates out, it's not a long job. I'd then clean off the steels and replace the friction plates with Barnett friction plates (or even fit a full set of friction and steels) Then make sure it was adjusted correctly and reassemble. I wouldn't use ATF as it isn't what Ossa recommended, I've no idea how effective that is in an old gearbox with bronze bushes. I use Barnett friction plates with standard steels in both of my MARs and because the friction material is better it allows the spring tension to backed off more than normal which gives the benefit of a lighter clutch pull. The clutch also disengages cleaner and very rarely sticks even after standing unused for months
  7. woody

    Before and After

    That was the original triangle fitted to the early 5 speeders up to the introduction of the banana. The triangle you buy now as a reproduction seems fine as I have one on my M49 with no restriction issues. I guess it might be empty but it works well enough to mute the sound as the single silencer set up is too noisy
  8. woody

    Before and After

    If yours is an M183 it had a 28mm Bing as standard, the 250 used a MK2 Amal. That's not to say the Amal won't work but as already mentioned, it could be running weak and causing the hot running Yes, the M159, 183 and 191 are pretty well the same bike
  9. woody

    Before and After

    Banana is noisy compared to the clubfoot. The clubfoot is fine and is not restrictive. Banana maybe a bit restrictive for a later (M159 on) 325 which have a bigger exhaust than the earlier 325. You can modify the clubfoot by cutting the back off the rear box part, cutting all of the baffles out and replacing them with a perforated tube and packing and converting the dual outlet to a single. It's debatable whether you notice any difference other than a deeper tone and maybe a few more revs on the very top end at wide open throttle. The only packing in the clubfoot is in the section that runs from its inlet to just in front of the rear shock. If the bike runs roughly off idle and has a tinny / hollow sound It's probably worth cutting open, cleaning and repacking both middle box and rear silencer front section. Depending on how the bike has run in the past, the middle silencer can either be dry inside and have blown out all of its packing, or be totally gummed up from poor 2 stroke oil and/or wrong mix. Either way the only fix is cut open, clean, ensuring all of the holes are free in the perforated tube and repack,
  10. That one is longer than a MK1 MAR spindle but I imagine you can make it fit with a bit of machining and thread cutting
  11. I have a triangle on my M49. It's an aftermarket Spanish one from In Motion, it quietens the bike down nicely and no loss of performance at all. It could be that there are no baffles in it, I don't know, but the bike runs fine with it fitted.
  12. Page 100 in here might be what you want Hamish. I was looking for a model 10 gear lever and came across the brake pedal https://www.motosdelabuelo.com/pdf/bultaco.pdf
  13. I'm confused as to what advice you're after as well ? You can just buy a barrel and adjuster nut from In Motion
  14. No idea what the message problem was. Can't help with what difference white or grey primer makes sorry, mine was powder coated and a body shop did the tank for me. It normally says on the can which primer to use ? I'd always use 1021 for yellow, it's a nice deep, rich shade. Can't get a picture of my old Gripper on here but this Majesty was 1021
  15. Woody, with RAL 1021 you suggest as being a nice deeper yellow for the Gripper, to match the mudguards, did you use white or grey primer. I’m told it does make a difference to the final top coat colour.

    Many thanks.


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