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stu109

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About stu109

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  • Bike
    JCM 323 Evo 300 4T

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  • Location
    Yorkshire

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  1. it seems unlikely that the bike could have operated successfully since 2011 without a functioning water pump. Like you, I have heard rumours of impellers melting. The cam chain runs in plastic guides so it is worth checking these are OK if it has been running hot. The tensioner has a spring mechanism. The manual will tell you how to check and reset.
  2. stu109

    Leaking fork seals

    Have managed to solve the issue. Got some new All Balls seals and fitted with the plastic bag tip. One stanchion had a pinhead sized blemish (a manufacturing fault I think) the other a small area of superficial scratching. I smoothed off both with fine emery paper. I did try filling with epoxy, and superglue/baking soda, and just superglue, but any remaining indentations were so shallow nothing would take. Carefully cleaned everything on reassembly and used level to set oil rather than quantity. Hopefully will last a bit!
  3. stu109

    Leaking fork seals

    I am having problems sealing my front forks on a 2013 Beta Evo 4T. I have changed the seals (not for the first time) but they still leak. Tried new bushes and another set of good quality fork seals, still no joy. Legs are smooth with no blemishes although the black friction coat has worn away. Any thoughts? Should I be looking to get the legs re-chromed or could there be something else amiss? Having looked at the parts catalogue internals look more like the 2014 model - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0312/4301/0185/files/2014_Evo_4_stroke_parts.pdf?v=1592579609
  4. Was the cable routed correctly? It may be that it wasn't quite right and was pulling up the slide a bit. With the engine off, you should be able to hear the slide bumping on the stop screw if you use the twist grip to "accelerate" and then let it snap back.
  5. It needs to pull air from the front of the rad backwards over the engine. If you start it up and let the fan start you should be able to tell which way the air is flowing.
  6. stu109

    Ty stalling

    Check the tank breather. Connect pipe to the fuel tap and drain into a container. If insufficient flow of air into the tank , flow of fuel will slow or stop. Just had this issue with me Beta. I had fitted one of those one way valves to the breather pipe and it was faulty.
  7. Hi, I would also check the woodruff key just in case the flywheel is slipping on the shaft.
  8. The Eboracum Motorcycle Club of York is holding a two day charity trial on the 17 and 18 April. For the first time in many years the event will include a sidecar class. I will be there on my JCM outfit for it's first competitive outing. Would be great to have some competition so we can judge just how poor we are! Details of the event here - https://www.acu.org.uk/events/April-2021/Eboracum-MCC-of-York/Trials/Moor-Farm-Ouseburn-ACU60240.aspx For those who don't have an ACU trials licence, one day licences are available. Message me if you need any more information. All proceeds go to the Yorkshire Air Ambulance.
  9. Just because you can't find the third piece now doesn't mean its still in the cases. It could have come out with the oil at some time. My Evo lost two teeth from a gearbox cog and I only found out when they came out with the oil. Before you split the cases I would give the engine a shake and see if you can hear anything. One of those telescopic magnetic tools might help get it out. The only way you will be certain it's not inside will be to split the cases!
  10. If you lay the bike on its side you can take the cover off without draining the oil. However, it is likely you have damaged the kickstart gears so you would be wanting to replace the oil anyway to get rid of any metal fragments.. A clutch holding tool can be used to hold the clutch whist you undo the centre nut, if you don't have a impact wrench. Whist it's open would be worth checking the clutch plates and the water pump impeller. Just hope any bits of metal flying around inside the cases haven't done any significant damage.
  11. From what you say it looks as if your starting point will be a used outfit of some sort. Given the scarcity of these I think you will have to go with whatever you can find. Waiting for TY175 outfit will be a long wait, I fear! You could use the sidecar bike as a solo but would have to undo the changes made for the outfit. (Stiffer springs rear and possibly front, and maybe even a swing arm extension). You may find this a bit of a faff. On balance, I would go for whatever outfit you can find in your price range that takes your fancy, and a TY175 as your solo.
  12. stu109

    Ossa MAR

    Can you post or send me pictures?
  13. Can you post a video so we can here it? May just be the usual sound of a 4 stoke. Other people are commenting on the bike's quietness so seems unlikely there is anything particularly unusual about the "tappety noise". Could just check that the cam chain tensioner is correctly adjusted.
  14. Have a look at the manual for the decompresser details. (It works by keeping one of the valves open until the engine fires) It has a fine spring that holds it in the correct position for starting. TDC on the compression stroke has both valves fully closed and, consequently, there is a gap in the tappets. TDC on the exhaust stroke has the exhaust valves open (depressed). You should be able to see the valves opening and closing as you rotate the crank. Use the flywheel nut to turn the engine. Make sure you turn it in the correct direction to bring it up to TDC.
  15. Hi It's quite a squeeze to get to the valve adjusters and get a good measurement with a feeler gauge, did you drop the engine forward to gain access? There is a bolt at the front of the engine that engages with a recess in the crank at TDC. Did you use this to get to TDC to set the tappets? I agree rechecking may well resolve the matter. In addition the engine has an automatic decompresser that works on the valves. Has this been disturbed inadvertently? Stuart
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