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stu109

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About stu109

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  • Bike
    JCM 323 Evo 300 4T

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  • Location
    Yorkshire

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  1. Hi I have a Beta 4T 300 and I'm very much a novice rider. The original Beta throttle was s very fast action, which made the bike a bit of a handful. I found the Domino slow throttle to be to slow (you had to twist it too far for comfort). A Domino fast throttle did the trick for me. Bike is easy to ride, grippy and sounds great. Stuart
  2. stu109

    Ossa MAR

    Hi I made bolt on mounting plates for mine so that I didn't mess up the frame and it could be easily put back to a solo. Can you get something on the bracing by the headstock? Stuart
  3. stu109

    Ossa MAR

    Hi I got my chair on ebay. They come up from time to time so setting up a search can help. Like you, I used an old bike I had at the back of the shed. With hindsight it would have been easier to buy a used outfit, but there is a certain satisfaction in finishing a project. Don't forget you will need heavier rear springs, and I added some additional pre-load on the front end. I had trouble finding the required tube. The issue was buying a small quantity. Plenty of places to buy 10m lengths! I have a 17" Honda moped wheel with a 17mm shaft if you want it. Good luck Stuart
  4. stu109

    Beta 4t carb

    Hi I have never had a problem with my 4T carb and so have never had to remove it. I have a plastic cover on the airbox which stops a lot of crud from getting into the filter. Also have an in-line fuel filter. I clean the air filter after each trial and inspect the airbox for water. It can be drained at the bottom if needed. After washing I drain the float bowl, via the drain screw, just to ensure no water droplets get sucked into the carb. Wouldn't let the possibility of carb removal stop you from buying a 4T. Had a 125 Rev3 with a Delorto carb before and was forever having to clean that. Stuart
  5. stu109

    Beta 4t carbu

    Its new, take it back to the supplier and insist they put it right. Definitely a fault, my 4T doesn't leak. As rotors7 says most likely the float value. May well be just some dirt, but a bit of a pig to get the carb off so let the supplier sort it out.
  6. Hi I have a couple of KTM shims which I think are the right size. If you PM me I will send you them. Stuart
  7. Hi You may find that, with the bash plate attached, you can't correctly align the bolts at the top of the frame sides. If so detach front of bash plate and reattach once the frame sides are in place. You may find you need to apply some upwards force to the plate to get the bolts to align correctly. Good luck!
  8. Hi Could be sucking in gearbox oil from a defective crank seal.
  9. When starting you are mainly using the pilot circuit in the carb, so the colour of the plug, which is an indication of mixture in normal riding, is less relevant. Check the carb to inlet manifold rubber for splits whist you have the carb off. Have you adjusted the mixture screw at any time? Adjusting this whist the engine is running may help.
  10. A lean mixture can make hot starting difficult. Flywheel side seal leaking can cause this. I think you can change the seal without splitting the cases. Remove flywheel and pull out the seal with a small hook. I have also seen a self-taping screw into the seal used to get a grip on it. Just be careful not to damage the shaft. New seal will tap in. Other potential sources of lean mixture are leak in inlet manifold and blocked pilot jet. Has it always started badly or was it OK once? Once you have excluded all other issues you could try changes in the carb to richen the mixture to see if this helps. PS does it hot start better if you use a bit of choke. If yes then issue is in the mixture.
  11. At the suggestion of Joel Corry, I changed the shock oil to 10w and pumped it up to 200lbs per inch. Seems to work well. Copes with the additional weight without bottoming out but is still soft enough to float over obstacles. The 320cc engine seems to have all the power we need. The gearing is quite high. Comes from a time of solo use when I used 2nd gear to blast through every section. Might reduce front cog by one tooth. As ever though the machine is much better than the rider!
  12. Have managed to find the services of an excellent passenger and a place to practice. After a few sessions we have managed to gain some control so at least we can now make it go in a straight line. Still looking for some events to compete in.
  13. To get at the valves you are best to tilt the engine forward. To do this you need to take out the lower front mounting bolt and remove the two side struts. They say you can move the rad. to the side out of the way but I found it easier to disconnect it. You need to loosen the carb clip so that it disconnects from the airbox as the engine tilts I have a 2013 and twice "thought" I should check the clearances. However both times they were fine. I would say, given the difficulty of getting to and measuring the gaps, unless it sounds noisy or is not running well you could get away without checking. I have spoken to other Beta 4T riders and their experiences of checking the valves is similar to mine. Do you have issues that lead you to suspect a valve issue?
  14. Also the bolt locks the engine at TDC so is good for valve timing and setting the tappets.
  15. Like arbutus I used the locking bolt when I removed the flywheel. I was concerned that it might not be strong enough for the job so use a clutch holding tool (the one like mole grips) to hold the primary drive sprocket as well. Might have been overkill though as the locking bolt was good enough to hold it when I put the nut back on. The Beta manual recommends just the bolt to hold everything whilst the engine is stripped.
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