deerhurst Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Ive been on here for a few years now but have not been on in so long i forgot all of my old login info. So, hello, I'm back! I have a 2002 gasser 280 pro that I finally got the tranny rebuilt after breaking a shifter spring a couple years back. I had to replace a fiber plate to bribg the clutch back in spec and I will bet that it was a 2009/2010 plate. I run the old blue GM stuff as was recremmeded for that bike but the clutch now sticks horribly for a long time after it has sat for even a day. should I be running what ever it is now that is recommended? It sticks bad enough that I have no clutch at all and the old hold the rear brake when putting it in gear stalls the bike. It's kinda pop it into gear and hold on till everything gets warm then the clutch works beautifully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweersz Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 I'm in the same position you're in as I drained my old oil out and am wondering what new stuff I should put in. How much gear oil is necessary too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerhurst Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 My problem is that I have one fiber plate that is probably a slightly different compound and may require a different gear oil. The old pro and the new pro use a different oil. If memory serves, and it may not, I put 350cc of oil in my pro model. The old pros use a GM transfer case oil. Some slimy blue stuff. That's what I'm using in there now and want to know if that one plate is the issue with that oil. Your GM dealer will know what your on about if you tell him you want that stuff. I don't know what the new pros use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 My problem is that I have one fiber plate that is probably a slightly different compound and may require a different gear oil. The old pro and the new pro use a different oil. If memory serves, and it may not, I put 350cc of oil in my pro model. The old pros use a GM transfer case oil. Some slimy blue stuff. That's what I'm using in there now and want to know if that one plate is the issue with that oil. Your GM dealer will know what your on about if you tell him you want that stuff. I don't know what the new pros use. I also have a 2002 280 Pro and use the GM AutoTrak II in it (350cc's). The earlier models cn use the GM or Dexron (which gives a little more "bite" to the engagement) and the 2006 upwards (with the thinner Belville spring) seem to be happy with the Type-F ATF which has little more heat tolerance than the Dexron. The lightweight motorcycle specific trans fluids work well, like the 75-weight (which is actually more like an engine-specific 10-weight as trans and engine oil viscosities are measured at different temperatures). I doubt that the one plate would produce your symptoms (the other two should release if that is the case). I think the fiber compounds/face patterns were revised in 2003 (I have a 2004 pack in mine, for the last 7 years, no problem). What did your clutch measure out as (clutch hub to finger height)? You might have a problem with the o-rings leaking on the top hat post that will not give you a full release when cold but will seal when warm and expanded. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerhurst Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 I also have a 2002 280 Pro and use the GM AutoTrak II in it (350cc's). The earlier models cn use the GM or Dexron (which gives a little more "bite" to the engagement) and the 2006 upwards (with the thinner Belville spring) seem to be happy with the Type-F ATF which has little more heat tolerance than the Dexron. The lightweight motorcycle specific trans fluids work well, like the 75-weight (which is actually more like an engine-specific 10-weight as trans and engine oil viscosities are measured at different temperatures). I doubt that the one plate would produce your symptoms (the other two should release if that is the case). I think the fiber compounds/face patterns were revised in 2003 (I have a 2004 pack in mine, for the last 7 years, no problem). What did your clutch measure out as (clutch hub to finger height)? You might have a problem with the o-rings leaking on the top hat post that will not give you a full release when cold but will seal when warm and expanded. Jon I use that AutoTrak II right now. The clutch always stuck but if I put it into gear before with the clutch in the plates would break free and I would have no issues past that. Now, if i do that I stall out the bike. I can usually hear the difference in the clutch finger rattle when playing with the clutch in neutral. I can keep the bike stopped in gear with the clutch in but it requires a bit of strength and excess throttle. I dont like that. I dont remember the clutch measurement, I had to change out that plate to bring the pack thickness and the finger height back into spec, it is now at the top end of the spec. how should i go about checking the top hat o-rings? just pull the top hat off and see if the o-rings look bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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