Hey can anyone tell me if any of these wires gives a DC output, so I can use my front light. Cheers

its a 2003 sherco 250

Edited September 26, 201312 yr by teh gaza

The yellow wire is the power wire for the fan & lights but goes to a rectifier & regulator under the front tank mount first. Why has the plug been removed from your wiring?

The yellow wire is the power wire for the fan & lights but goes to a rectifier & regulator under the front tank mount first. Why has the plug been removed from your wiring?

It was like this when I purchased the bike, only kill switch no other lights etc. So If I hooked up a rectifier and 12v regulator to the yellow wires, do you think it work ok?

cheers

The system already has regulator and rectifier, you just need to tap into the wire. Get a volt meter on it to verify, but yellow should be the one.

The system already has regulator and rectifier, you just need to tap into the wire. Get a volt meter on it to verify, but yellow should be the one.

http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-diode.html

This is on my bike with the regulator. I cant seem to find a DC voltage anywhere, only AC. The plug at the top of my bike has no DC voltages either, that's where the kill switch plugs in. There is five spare wires there aswell. How often does the fan come on aswell because I hardly ever see it spin, so maybe my rectifier is broken or something

The fan cycles on & off for short periods, normally from cold it takes 5 or so minutes for it to come on the first time. When riding the fan switching on & off is not something you'll notice unless the fan motor has a squeal

This is what you should see under the tank if you're running the competition harness which runs a killswitch & no lights, should help you work out which wires go to the coil

Cheers guys got what I was looking for, just waiting for my light switch and step down converter to come in and ill be good

The standard light would not really care about things as it is incandescent and will work on ac or dc. A LED type will be sensitive to dc only and polarity sensitive.

If your fan is working, you obviously have dc rectification, as it is a DC motor and will not work otherwise.

Actually, I seem to recall having difficulty getting good voltage readings on these things in the past using run of mill meters as they do not handle the crudely chopped rectified output well and with no battery or cap in the system to stabilize things it may drive them nuts..