griffiths of wales Posted June 21, 2005 Report Share Posted June 21, 2005 Before I start hitting lumps out of me rear wheel, can someone give me some guidance on removing the 6302 bearings. On the more modern wheels I have worked on, the bearings are normally removed by tapping with a suitable tool (bluntened screwdriver) from the opposite side of the hub, i.e. driving them out from the inside..made possible by the fact that there is a small portion of the inner race of the bearing exposed. On my hub, the bearings appear to be pressed into a shoulder machined into the hub..there is nothing to hit!! HELP!! Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted June 21, 2005 Report Share Posted June 21, 2005 I'm assuming you mean the outer race. The inner race is where the axle goes through. You could try to knock them out from the inside (with a drift on the inner race) with no regard to saving the bearing. If you use a little heat (stay below 200F.) the whole bearing will probably come out. If there's just no way, you could cut the bearing out, leaving the outer race in the hub, then run a bead of weld around the inside of the race and as it cools, the race will just drop out. Don't forget to cut a couple notches in the hub so you have a place to put your punch next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucej Posted June 21, 2005 Report Share Posted June 21, 2005 Pretty sure he means the inner race, Charlie. Just like you described in your post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazer Posted June 21, 2005 Report Share Posted June 21, 2005 dont for get to heat up your wheel hub up before knocking out the old bearing,and before you put in the new one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffiths of wales Posted June 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2005 Cheers lads..its the inner race that normally lends itself to taking the removal force from its inside face, its just that there's not enough face showing to get my normal tool to 'sit on it'. After taking a closer look there is a floating tube between both bearings that has a small chamfer, i.e. < 1 mm, I am going to get a bar of suitable diameter and get one end machined so that it has a slight toe that hopefully will enable me to get some muscle into the inner race. I'll let you know what happens. When I do get them out, I'll reduce the tube OD by a couple of mm, just like most modern setups. Cheers all, Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuessenhigh Posted June 21, 2005 Report Share Posted June 21, 2005 Griffith..if its anything like the Beta rear wheel, you might want to do a search in the Beta forum to see what it says...has been discussed there a few times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffiths of wales Posted June 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2005 Panic over...the tube between the bearings can be moved, I gave it a sharp blow with a socket extension and it moved sufficientl for me to drive out the bearings. The tube has thin, bendable lugs at each end that are designed to keep the centreline of the tube aligned with the bearings. Will now be sending the hubs off to be black anodised before rebuilding wheels with stainless spokes. Cheers all, Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted June 23, 2005 Report Share Posted June 23, 2005 I'd double check on the anodising of the hubs as I've been told that anything with any magnesium in it won't anodise, and being Honda hubs they may well have magnesium in them. I've no idea whether this is correct or not, just what I was told when I wanted some Yam hubs anodised, so just thought I'd mention it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffiths of wales Posted June 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2005 Cheers Woody..I'll have a discussion with the metal finishing people regarding magnesium. When I first enquired about the process details and available colours, I was told about a pre-coating that they use on some base materials that mainly consisted of a thin galvanise 'type' material-so maybe they have addressed a problem such as your comments previously. Cheers for that anyway and thanks for the spoke info. ATB, Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffiths of wales Posted June 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2005 I get the anodising done by one of my tooling suppliers, so that'll be cheap! and had a jig made to make respoking fairly straightforward. Thanks again for the info and helpful comments, Cheers...Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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