2014 Oset 16.0 Racing - Is The "throttle" Normal?

[d_no]

Hi.

My 5 y/o son has an Oset 16.0 racing and loves spending every spare minute on it. The "throttle" has always troubled me though, and having had no previous experience with e-bikes of any description and no ability to benchmark against other bikes, I need the help of forum members to ascertain whether the characteristics of his bike are normal or not..

From a stand-still all the way to full power the "throttle" behaves as expected and can be modulated well with a corresponding increase in speed at the rear wheel, HOWEVER when winding off the "throttle" from any position the speed/power cannot be modulated other than to eventually fully stop the transmission of power to the rear wheel at the point when the "throttle" is fully "closed". To put it another way the power is variable on application, but remains at the previously applied peak until the throttle is fully closed - there is no variability on the way back down - just stop.

My son knows nothing else and has adapted his riding style amazingly well to suit, but the scenario outlined above surely cannot be correct can it? I would assume that the speed/power should be variable regardless of whether one is applying power or backing off.

If someone could offer me the benefit of their experience it will enable me to ascertain whether I should be seeking a repair, or a modification.

Thanks.

[gwhy]

from the sounds of it you may have a faulty throttle , if I am reading it right. may be worth while trying to get hold of another throttle to test with, it dont have to be a oset throttle , any hall throttle will be good enough to test with. Have a look through ebay and look for hall e-bike throttles and find one that has 3 wires ( this makes it a bit easier to wire it up into the oset )

[d_no]

Thanks gwhy.

The bike was like this out of the box, so I'll be looking for a repair under warranty - I just needed confirmation that it is indeed faulty, and not just an intrinsic characteristic.

D.

[gwl3]

We have a 16 R and it doesn't do as you describe . We're on our third Oset and none of them have done that . If I were you I would contact Oset directly . I'm sure they would be happy to help out . They have always been more than helpful when I have had a problem .

Just fitted out our 16R in full Kelley Carbon guards to protect the paint , discs , chain etc . Top quality job.

I repacked all the bearings with Silkolene RG2 to prolong their life . Fitted a home made rubber mudguard / splash guard to stop mud and filth covering the rear shock . It fastens under the rear mudguard / subframe and drops down to past the motor . I made an alloy bash plate that overly extends rearward to protect the exposed motor casing from rock damage etc . Just finishing the last bracket to use 3 Mecateccno rubber battery covers instead of the Oset " cloth bag " .

Hope this helps anyone out .

[d_no]

Many thanks gwl3.

Sounds like you'll have yourself a nicely sorted little bike there...

[gwl3]

............... Should have also mentioned that I have fitted a rim lock to the rear wheel . This makes it much easier for my son to get traction , especially at this time of year . We can run it down to about 5psi now , no problem . Also fitted a handle across the 2 fixing holes for the rear mudguard out of a piece of old ratchet strap , approx. 6" long . As you know , we are forever picking the bikes up and lifting the back end around . This makes it really easy . Saves on snapping the extremely brittle rear mudguard when your moving the bike about in very cold weather too !

[arp]

Hi, Please can you let me know if you have resolved the throttle problem on your OSET 16R, as I am having the same problem on my sons new 16R, (the throttle was fine on his old 12.5). Any help would be welcomed.

[amv]

From my own experience and talking to others, your condition is normal albeit highly undesirable. The throttle has a large dead band at start and then a very aggressive 0-100% ramp in 1/8 of a turn. Some people like this on-off type of response.

From what I understand, the controller on the 36V and the 48V bikes does not reduce speed unless completely cutoff. This results in a very uncomfortable ride.

I replaced the throttle with a Magura and the controller with a Kelly KDS48200E which has an absolute maximum voltage of 60V. People considering using 16S LiPo should use the KDS72200E. These fit in the same spot as the OSET controller, the RS232 connector facing forward and flush with the bottom of the adjustment opening.

This combination allow one to adjust the dead band as well as the effective throttle response with a maximum rotation of 70 degrees and a very smooth and controllable bike with amazing power when one actually wants it.

[gwhy]

throttles can have a large dead band at the start of there travel but should still have a sweep voltage up its max. The size of the dead band can vary for throttle to throttle and this includes pot throttles i.e the magura and the new domino pot throttle.

if the speed do not shut off instantly when the ( any type , hall or pot ) throttle is closed then this can indicate a fault with the throttle i.e loose magnet, broken sensor, this should definitely not happen.

the kelly /margura combo is just one way to get around the problem ( its the most expensive way ) of curing a snatchy throttle

the kelly controllers ( from my experience of with the couple of models that I have played with) have a very sluggish ( in electronic terms ) ramp up , I know this can be set in the software but even the fastest setting still has a slow ramp up. I believe that its this slow ramp that gives the feeling of better control.

other options to try to cure this on the standard oset controller is make sure that the throttle is 100% working as it should ,use a Cycle analyst ( £100 ), use a pico controller (£130),use a throttle tamer(£30), make a rc filter to go in between the throttle and controller ( 3 or 4 components at a cost of less than £1.00 ) or you can even load the bike down more ( via gearing )and this will also tame the throttle response but this will make the motor run hotter and give the bike more top end but it will reduce the starting torque from zero throttle.

The kelly controller is not to expensive (£130) but if your original throttle is working 100% then there is no need to also buy a magura throttle (£50)

Edit:

just because a throttle appears to work fine on a different bike may not indecat a good throttle. The different bike may have different gearing, different controller or motor with different current limits ( power ).

Edited April 26, 2014 by gwhy

[gwhy]

The throttle tamers are $45 delivered international and $40 delivered stateside, I now have the contact details of the seller if anyone would like the contact details then please PM me. The throttle tamers allow adjustment of throttle resolution and up ramp speed and a includes a glitch filter.

Edit:

The throttle tamers are not my product and I don't sell them.

Edited April 26, 2014 by gwhy

[cb1rider]

Did anyone fix this problem with just a replacement throttle or was it the controller?  I'm talking specifically about the problem of controlled deceleration while throttle is slowly closed.