August 10, 200521 yr Anyone else had problems with the bolts at the rear of the air box which hold it to the frame. The insets just kept turning which left me with no other option but to pull them out the air box. The metal also seem very soft and prone to threading. Does anyone know :- 1 - A method of repair 2 - How I stop it happening on my new air box. thanks CK
August 10, 200521 yr Anyone else had problems with the bolts at the rear of the air box which hold it to the frame. The insets just kept turning which left me with no other option but to pull them out the air box. The metal also seem very soft and prone to threading.Does anyone know :- 1 - A method of repair 2 - How I stop it happening on my new air box. thanks CK hiya mate, i have the same problem with mine. my side bolt is ok so i have taped over one of the rear ones and slightly nip up the other, then tape up the rear to the frame making sure there are no gaps, then put the mud gaurd back on and tape up the rear too making sure no crap can get in. it works for mine mate. my mate took his threads out and super glued them in but they still keep spinning round after a couple of changes...good luck!
August 10, 200521 yr Glue up the ferrules/holes and forget them. Put a couple holes in the very rear of the airbox and use them to zip tie it to the frame. Slip a few zipties in your crossbar pad in case you ever need to take your airbox off in the woods.
August 10, 200521 yr Had the same problem with the air filter retaining bolt hole, drilled it out & fitted a 6mm threaded rivet, now same allen key fits all airbox bolts. PS, you only need to use the inside airbox retaining bolt at the top, use other hole to line it up. Hope this helps.
August 10, 200521 yr Author I've put some holes in the back of the box and zip tied it to the frame. It seems fairly robust but I'll see how it stands up to the rigours of a trial. thanks to you all for your help CK Edited August 10, 200521 yr by Cota Kid
August 10, 200521 yr Prevention is cheaper and quicker than the cure! on new ones or ones that are fine at the moment. The rubber seal between the airbox and the muffler pushes the airbox to one side so starting the bolts is tricky, I found putting an allen wrench in the inside hole and prying the box over a little while starting the other bolt with your fingers will stop the problem happening in the first place, also start all bolts with fingers and don't tighten until all are in place, this allows a little play to align all the holes up. I did struggle and mess one bolt up on my 99 2.5, had many since then , by useing above method haven't done it since.
August 11, 200521 yr There are some small brass treded bushes available comercially (from RS i think) they expand the first time you put a bolt in and force a knurled outer surface into the hole,offering them up they seem just over the origional outside diamiter. they are meant for polly and pvc sheet, should do the trick
August 11, 200521 yr I use the same method as Ishy with one exception, I use a small tapered brass drift so that I do not harm the threads. I have also had several Sherco's and have had a problem on only one of them. That is how I developed the drift procedure. I have a used bike now that has a missing bushing and I am using a zip tie, it works fine. Wayne
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