charliechitlins

Nice! Thanks.

This is a '78 (I think) 247 and the forks seized. I got the first one apart, but it wasn't easy, and some stuff dropped out...like a rubber seal and a snap ring! Maybe if I'm really careful, I can get the other one apart and be sure how to put them both back together. Also...I know that there are some aluminum bits that bind. Could someone tell me what needs to be done to get these working smoothly? And if someone could lead me to a parts diagram... Thanks!

I hear ya! When you find a solution, let us know! I have seen something that's a rubber plug with a threaded metal insert....are they called well nuts? I'm going to look around. I just went through this, so the hassle is fresh in my mind!

Well...a few minutes of work reveals a pretty nastily scuffed piston and barrel and rings seized in the lands. Off we go. I'm assuming that boring and plating is more economical than a new barrel....

AND...when it did start and run, it ran beautifully. A shocking amount of bottom end...and that's with my main point of reference being a Sherco 2.9. Oooohh...just remembered another symptom...the last couple times it ran, it revved very high on start-up. I suspected an air leak. But it calmed down upon closing the enrichener. Thanks to everybody for your help. I wish I had more time to keep on top of it. Weeks can go by before I can carve out a few minutes to work on this thing. I have 2 paid jobs ahead of mine. A '48 Indian Chief and a 250 Ninja. My workshop is a strange place!

I know that and YOU know that....but I have had the contrary insisted to me on several occasions. So I try to keep everybody happy by giving both readings.

Thanks...good call on the oil in the cyl. It has been sitting awhile and would be dry. The difference in compression with throttle open is, I think, due to the amount of air being let in. The carb was empty. And...I have a new plug installed and set to .3mm, as per your recommendation...I just have to find the time to get the tank on and give it a few kicks. This weekend, after doing all 4 brake pads and rotors on my old car, I just didn't have the energy to spin any more wrenches. Thanks.

Not to be ungrateful for the help, but.... It seems to me that the best that could come from that is the knowledge that have a bike that will run provided I heat the plug and drag it behind a car, Unless I'm missing something. I'm pretty sure that the way low compression is a good place to start.

Crap. I was afraid of that. Even Wilbur the Warthog (see above) has about 90psi

OK...did a little more work...time is tight these days! Pulled the head pipe and peeked in. A little scuffing on the piston. but I've seen much worse on bikes that ran fine. Nothing bad enough to look like material smeared over the rings and seizing them in the lands. Compression test: 40psi with throttle closed, up to 70 with throttle open. I don't know what it's supposed to be. Another tear-down of the carb just for kicks...double check. Everything is eat-off-it clean. I drilled the starter jet a little because I wanted to feel like I was accomplishing something. I'll button it up soon and try a fresh plug at .3mm as suggested. You just can't put a price on a good time.

I haven't hada chance to get back to this thing yet...busy nights. But I did change the plug boot...it's not that. I will take the pipe off and have a peek at the piston....

This is what I'm sayin'! That's why I was so sure the flywheel key was sheared. The only excuse I could think of was timing that was way off. This is driving me nuts. And...as for the Harley...I always take the front fender off before I ride it in a Trial

I wonder if that would work for my other bike, which occasionally loads up after sitting.

You guys are good... I'll add some stuff. Tried another plug...I have come across plugs that would fire outside but not under compression. Tried closing the gap to about .5mm. Can't imagine it's the kill switch if there's spark, but I will try disconnecting it. The bike was often running flawlessly, but would sometimes be difficult to start. Other times it started on 2 kicks. Plug always ran a textbook perfect toasty brown. The last time it ran it was very difficult to start and ran rough. When I revved it to try to clear it out, it stopped suddenly at high RPM and didn't run again. I tried kicking it over immediately after and it moved freely, so it didn'r seize. Gas is a little old...not terrible (the thing didn't fire with ETHER!) I haven't checked the compression with a gauge, but it sure pops my finger off like it should. How would checking the plug with a strobe determine if it's firing inside? Any strobe I've seen goes on the wire outside. Here's where it gets tricky. The oil is milky (AHA! You say!), but I also had a bad waterpump seal/shaft AND bad seals for the throwout "top hat" so there may still be some foreign stuff in the oil. Hard to say if it's new or left over. I suppose I could pull the top end next and check the o-rings... I'm not sure how to diagnose crank seals.

'03 200 Pro. No start. Stripped and cleaned carb. Trimmed back plug wire and reinstalled boot. Big FAT blue spark. Plug gets wet after a few kicks. New NGK BPR5EIX Removed flywheel/rotor...key intact, no slippage. Checked stator ground. Exhaust gummy, but not clogged. Checked reed cage (long shot)...no broken petals. Not even a POP. Nada. Zippo. Bupkis. Not even with ether. Fuel...air...spark...timing... Am I missing something? WTF. I swear, I'm getting ready to part this thing out.

Your problem wouldn't be when the valve is on, but when it's off. Floats/needle/seat will only be a problem if your petcock is leaking a little when it's turned off. I would be that if you disconnect the fuel hose at the petcock you'll see a little leak and your bike will start right up the next time you try...provided you reconnect the fuel hose

If I throw it on the burn pile, like I'm sorely tempted to, I'll be sure to take pics.

Brakes that won't stop being spongey often have a bad line. It can be weak internally and you can't see the problem. You could try bleeding the master itself. Take the line off, put you r finger over the hole and pump. Keep the lever pulled in and re-attach the line. This is often a problem with larger volume masters on street bikes and such, but you might as well try it. That being said...the only bike that drove me completely insane with spongey brakes had me replacing every component. Unfortunately, the line was replaced last and it turned out to be the problem.

Upon further thought...it also seems like a simple matter to have an electric bike come with 3 easily-swapped batteries. If one could do a loop and switch batteries in approximately the time it takes to gas up....

Remove all the little brass thingies with a screwdriver slot in them. Clean them with compressed air, carb cleaner and/or a few strands of primary wire (it's soft...never use anything hard like a needle or a drill bit). Make sure you can see light through them. Do this one at a time so you don't mix them up.

It's a little-known fact that that song was written about my Sherco!!

So...what year Beta can you buy that you can be relatively sure that it will continue to make spark? The last time I was regularly wrenching trials bikes, this was a problem.,

Dear Santa, I want a Sherco for Christmas! Your pal, Charlie

It pretends to like me, then it stops because it needs more money.

It's a bummer when a kid (or anybody!...but I think it happens more to kids) stalls on a hill, the bike rolls backward and fires up. Very frightening!