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caddy4u

Mitanni Simplified Wiring Loom

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Has anybody fitted one? or any wiring loom? and does it have wiring for the 2map PTB? and was it a nightmare to fit?

TIA

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Interesting question, waiting for replies...

I thought about it too.

 

I decided to rewire my bike myself.

I dislike all the unused connectors and two or three separate runs of cables in the same direction etc.

I'm really pleased with the end result.

It's neater, lighter and has less unwanted stuff hanging about.

Makes me feel happier.

Silly, I know, but I'm a tinkerer.

 

I know the weight loss is marginal enough to make no difference...

But the bulk of the loom is now lower and more centralised. (All be it slightly)

 

I now have less congestion around the radiator and headstock with only two small connectors under the tank.

(makes fitting the tank easier) (better heat dissipation? More airspace, see) (lighter front end on my "front heavy" 4RT.)

(I know, I'm kidding myself...but its true.)

Fewer unused connectors laying about.

Have eliminated the Bank Angle sensor and its metal mounting tang, relocated the cooling fan relay and removed its metal mounting tang.

All of which has left me with a good few metres of wire less, more airspace and over 350 grams lighter.

The loom is smaller, thinner, neater and looks made for my bike instead of a one size fits all.

 

And now when I hose my bike down, I'm not thinking about all the visible excess.

 

 

 

 

 

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Interesting question, waiting for replies...

I thought about it too.

I decided to rewire my bike myself.

I dislike all the unused connectors and two or three separate runs of cables in the same direction etc.

I'm really pleased with the end result.

It's neater, lighter and has less unwanted stuff hanging about.

Makes me feel happier.

Silly, I know, but I'm a tinkerer.

I know the weight loss is marginal enough to make no difference...

But the bulk of the loom is now lower and more centralised. (All be it slightly)

I now have less congestion around the radiator and headstock with only two small connectors under the tank.

(makes fitting the tank easier) (better heat dissipation? More airspace, see) (lighter front end on my "front heavy" 4RT.)

(I know, I'm kidding myself...but its true.)

Fewer unused connectors laying about.

Have eliminated the Bank Angle sensor and its metal mounting tang, relocated the cooling fan relay and removed its metal mounting tang.

All of which has left me with a good few metres of wire less, more airspace and over 350 grams lighter.

The loom is smaller, thinner, neater and looks made for my bike instead of a one size fits all.

And now when I hose my bike down, I'm not thinking about all the visible excess.

Sounds good to me! Have you any more details on how you did this, or pictures? TIA

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Hi,

I will try and upload some pics when I next undress her for a service. Give me a little while…

 

It started when I removed the Bank Angle sensor, an unnecessary item if a magnetic kill switch is used. I wanted to remove the metal bracket and unused connector so started to unwrap the loom.

Someone suggested moving the fan relay up to the headstock at the same time, because that is where its wires originate. (They don’t.)

I was aware of a few unwanted connectors around the headstock, so I thought "Why don't I just go for it".

 

The first thing I noticed is just how complicated Montesa made the loom. There are wires running in one direction just to turn round and run the other way again.

I think there were about 8 earth wires up at the headstock, connected with a large plastic block, with no apparent reason for being there.

Instead of separate earth wires from each requirement all being joined at the headstock. I now have one earth wire with a tee taken off near each requirement.

(I noticed in the wiring diagram in the owner’s manual that one of the earth wires from the frame travels directly to the ECU. I guess the ECU needs a “clean” earth for reference, so have left that wire unmodified.)

 

Getting rid of the excess connectors at the headstock leaves room for the fan relay, which would eliminate the extra cable sheath that runs parallel to the main loom under the tank. But...nearing completion...I wondered why I was adding the weight of the relay to the very top and very front of the frame, when its wires originate from behind the engine, (lower and more central).

 

Removing the fan relay mounting tang and Bank Angle sensor and mount leaves a lot more room for the main wiring connectors behind the cylinder.

They tuck in much better under the throttle body in the large plastic sock. This leaves plenty of room for the fan relay to be sited between the main connector sock and the capacitor. Thus the relay moves inboard with much shorter wires. (There were two separate power wires running through the loom to the headstock and then back in the separate sleeve to the relay, but on unwrapping the loom the two wires were tee’d together nearer to the supply point.) I now have one much shorter wire running direct to the relay and tee’d just before the relay. The blue/black also now runs direct to the relay instead of up and back.

 

As standard, the fan motor wires and sheath run down to the coil, just to turn round and run up to the headstock, which gives a separately wrapped cable nestling between the vent pipes, HT lead and loom alongside the radiator. It is now history.

I have routed it straight up from the motor, strapped to the engine vent pipe, and shortened it. The connector sits by the vent pipe canister.

 

The fuel pump connector is the only other one under the tank now.

 

(You may want to leave the Mapping Switch connector there. It is not applicable to my bike. I have left a tail of it at the ECU for future use if need be).

 

With a few other bits shortened or removed, I have left over on the floor…

4 wire connector blocks and approx 110g of wire etc.

consisting of approx…

1.95metres of red power supply.

2.45m of green earth.

0.7m of yellow/green

0.5m white/green

0.65 of blue/black

plus approx 0.45m of the plastic sheath.

 

Removing the support tangs for the BA sensor and fan relay etc, shaves approx 80g off the standard rectifier bracket.

 

Plus, of course, the instigator of the whole project the BA sensor at about 110g.

 

Add in the shortening of the fuel vent tube whilst redirecting it to the headstock (as per old days) and removing the steering lock, you get the 350g weight reduction.

 

And, yes.

It runs perfectly.

 

It’s a bit long winded, but you did ask!

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That's awesome-thank you, will wait for the pictures till I decide if I'm capable of doing that haha!

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That's awesome-thank you, will wait for the pictures till I decide if I'm capable of doing that haha!

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