I see around the internet few guys that have purchased 300 factory bikes and they choose to go with a slow throttle (black tube). some advise extra teeth on rear sprocket and also extra weight on the flywheel. back here I m thinking: whats the point of getting a powerful bike and dialing down the power? isn't that better just buy a 125cc and have significant less weight? or a 250? 

I just made the switch from 250 to 300 this season and although I haven't had the chance to ride much because of weather, I immediately noticed the extra power, which in my case I loved it. makes the wheelies much more controllable and you can rely more on the low end, focusing in the clutch and forgetting a little about throttle. just MO.  the question here is: are there advantages in heavier Flywheel, extra sprocket teeth and slow throttle other than making "lack of technique" more forgiving??

 

Some 300’s are pretty smooth out the box which some people like. Especially the ones designed to be like the beta SS 300. 

I don’t really see much point in getting a 300 and then adding a slow action I’ll only go up to a 300 if/when I start needing the extra power to launch the bike up bigger rocks. It also depends on the riders weight as well I guess.. if they are heavy the 300 will feel like a 250 ?

I ride a 125 and it's only a couple of pounds lighter than a 250/300, unlike the difference between a 125 and 250/300 MX or Enduro bike.

1 hour ago, leosantanalg said:

 just buy a 125cc and have significant less weight?

It's my understanding that these bikes all weigh more or less the same, regardless of capacity, it's the spinning mass of the flywheel that makes them feel heavier. 

As a Physical Therapist, I work with rehabilitation and often people with poor balance! all balance exercises are developed in a way that you must challenge the body's ability to balance itself in order to force your brain to improve balance reaction.  

In Trials I take the same approach!  Challenge in order to improve!

quoting Adam Raga: "the throttle is not very important in trials and if you use a bit more or a bit less than you should most of the time you will still manage the obstacles. The clutch is very important. You must control the clutch precisely and if you mess it up you will dab" 

Thus, A more sensitive bike will force you to improve your abilities and reaction time to control it! In my mind, and I mean (personal opinion), A forgiving bike might get you through the course easier, but How much is it teaching you to be a good rider???  

I came back to Trials riding 3 years ago after being away from bikes all together for over 40 years.

I bought the wife a 2000 Gas Gas txt 280 before I bought myself a 2013 Jotagas 300.

I then bought myself a 2009 Gas Gas Raga 300, followed by a 2016 Sherco 300 and then a 2017 Sherco 300 factory.

They ALL have fast action throttles and now while I am riding my 2017, my wife is riding the 2016.

I love the quick response and small amount of throttle my 74 year old arthritic hands/fingers require to clear an obstacle.

If it suits you, enjoy it. If it doesn't suit you then change it!

Test days! Use 'em!

Maybe it's just my Beta Evo 300, but I find it very difficult to control in a wheely.   Many of the older bikes, with seats, I could wheely for at least 300yards until the field ran out.  But this Beta seems to have the wrong power curve.  It starts off for 50 yards in third quite Ok, then all of a sudden it finds a surge of power that leaves me on the deck.   Maybe it is the power mapping, or the rear suspension, or the lack of a seat, but I certainly wont be doing a lap of the TT Course on it.

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1 hour ago, scifi said:

Maybe it's just my Beta Evo 300, but I find it very difficult to control in a wheely.   Many of the older bikes, with seats, I could wheely for at least 300yards until the field ran out.  But this Beta seems to have the wrong power curve.  It starts off for 50 yards in third quite Ok, then all of a sudden it finds a surge of power that leaves me on the deck.   Maybe it is the power mapping, or the rear suspension, or the lack of a seat, but I certainly wont be doing a lap of the TT Course on it.

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maybe use it in sections and not for wheelies -  power curve might be better suited -just a thought but that is what it was designed for 

Quote

 

Yes it's Ok in Sections...  mostly because they are less than 50 yards long..!

 Most people buy the 300 because that is the biggest they make. Bigger is always better in some peoples mind. I have a friend that called me about which bike to buy, he just turned 68 and has not ridden in several years. He was appalled when I told him a 200 Beta. He replied he was a big bore rider. I have to laugh at this  post. A flywheel can  help gain traction in the wet, lower gearing does not lower the power. In fact it makes it more abrupt. You need not worry about  what others do with their bikes, look at yourself when it comes to technique. Trials is about the individual, nothing more.

Edited January 27, 20188 yr by lineaway

A low compression head goes a long way to taming a bigger motor. Kicks easier. Runs better on low octane fuel. Still maintains that lovely low end torque.

if you need to tame get a smaller cc.

The OP asked about the slow action throttle...  With bikes that have a larger carburettor, you might find that a slow action throttle won't allow you to go from low to high revs without doing a sort of throttle shuffle with your fingers, then again the shuffle to get back from high to low revs again.   

I rode a modern MX bike recently, and slow to max occurred with less than 1/8 a turn of the throttle, I thought it would be too abrupt, but when riding it, it was perfectly Ok.

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5 hours ago, nigel dabster said:

if you need to tame get a smaller cc.

Yep

Tried a 18 Beta 300 yesterday and for me I much preferred the 18 250 I tried at Inch Perfect 's test day

Much less intimidating for a Clubman

Beta 250 was fab

Edited January 27, 20188 yr by johnnyboxer