Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Trials Central

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Bike infohelp

Featured Replies

Just bought this fixer and not sure about the year and some details if someone out there could help and recommend upgrades. Noticed brake is on left side and thought they were imported with it on the right after 85? also not sure what those shocks are from. have some rust on the upper fork tubes can that be fixed? Many thanks in advance.

bultaco.jpg

  • Replies 93
  • Views 21.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most Popular Posts

  • Yes brake was originally on the right but it is very common and easy to convert the late model Sherpa Ts to brake on left to get a better feel. Brake on right used a bowden cable to cross over which d

  • It’s important to know that bultacos aren’t referred to by year. The M199 and it’s variants were produced for several years. Having said that, 13426 is a relatively lower B model serial so it was like

  • The taper referred to is at the top of the tube where it slides into the top yoke, what you see in the picture is normal for the bottom of the tube. 

Posted Images

The frame seems to be a 199b if you post chassis and engine numbers we can confirm whether it is  original. The standard engine is six speed. 

Yes brake was originally on the right but it is very common and easy to convert the late model Sherpa Ts to brake on left to get a better feel. Brake on right used a bowden cable to cross over which dulls the feel.

The change to brake on right was around 1975 not 1985.

The shocks look like gas Girlings which were a popular aftermarket choice back at the time when this was a new bike.

Yes the fork tubes can be rechromed. Also new tubes are available at a comparable cost.

If this is a 198B/199B which is what it looks like, it is a very rare bike, and the last Sherpa T model made by Bultaco. As for the year they don't really have a single year because they were produced over a period of a couple of years in the early 1980s when Bultaco was in the final stages of closing down. For parts supply, the best thing to use to identify the bike for the parts supplier are the engine and frame numbers

Edited by feetupfun

Also check the chrome inside the brake hubs are intact. Some brake cables are very tight and does not slide as they should, but RH brakes are poor.

Engine and frame numbers can be found here  https://cemoto.tripod.com/list.html

Edited by carl ekblom

  • Author

Thanks for all the help! Is it true i can get a new gas tank and side cases from someone in France?

 

bul engine.jpg

bul vin.jpg

It’s important to know that bultacos aren’t referred to by year. The M199 and it’s variants were produced for several years. Having said that, 13426 is a relatively lower B model serial so it was likely built in 1981.  But that’s an inaccurate way of identifying it.  Quite simply it’s a M199B 340cc Sherpa T.   It does have a 6 speed gearbox.   If you look carefully at the carburetor it may have a date code on it that could give a clue to what year it was assembled.  I have seen this on many bing carburetors.  It would have for example 3/81 meaning March 81.Virtually everything is available for that bike through inmotion trials in the UK.  Bultaco motorcycles in New York carry many if not all parts for it too.  
yes tank and side panels easily available.  In stock trim the bike is an excellent performer.  I owned at one time serial 13456.  Not too far from yours 
steve 

Edited by stevem75

Accordingly to this list https://cemoto.tripod.com/list.html 199B started in May 1981 and ended ?  Numbers should be 12876-14653. It is unclear when production ceased. Some sourses say in 1983. Rumours say the workforce assembled the last bikes from remaining parts

https://cemoto.tripod.com/photos/blue.jpg

There is documented serial numbers well into the 14900 range I believe.    
 

Edited by stevem75

  • Author

The main reason for switching the brake over is the sad condition of the brake pedal, I can barely hit it due to being so tucked in, are there alternatives?

 

bul brake.jpg

2 hours ago, slowrider said:

The main reason for switching the brake over is the sad condition of the brake pedal, I can barely hit it due to being so tucked in, are there alternatives?

 

bul brake.jpg

Grib racing from Spain is one alternative, not cheap but a very nice bit of kit.

https://www.grib.net/race/prestashop/gb/brakes/96-104-brake-pedal-bultaco-left-aluminium-cnc.html

Also JCC also in Spain.

https://tienda.jcccompeticio.com/en/home/257-palanca-freno-sherpa-199-izquierda.html

Edited by fourex
Added JCC.

Slowrider -

This is a TRIALS bike, and most trials riders would expect well-tucked-away controls, to reduce the possibility of accidental operation or snagging on obstacles. The brake pedal you have appears to be a version of the standard l/h fitting ; the original version of r/h pedal offered by Bultaco was equally tucked away, but unfortunately also provided a less usable brake.(see responses above). For comparison :-

48988474_Alloyrearbrakelevers-leftandright004.thumb.jpg.dd1469cbdd72669c8ba98bbc3502b6a0.jpg

The Spanish pedals mentioned are very nice, but you may also want to consider something a bit less eye-watering, price-wise :-

https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/late-sherpa-left-side-foot-brake-pedal/

It's your bike and you do what you like with it,  but my personal feeling is that your views may change once you have ridden it a bit. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Edited by lorenzo
clarity

  • Author

Well the right side looks clean, no metal draining out. tempted to leave it but not sure how often the crank seal needs to be replaced. Another dumb Dumb question, on my jap bikes the piston pin slides out after I remove the clips, on the Bul I removed the clips but the pin does not move, is it a press in rod pin? piston moves freely otherwise.

 

bul right side engine.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.