4 replies to this topic

[catfishpancake]

Wayne Thais has a fantastic tutorial for replacing the fork seals on Paioli forks (www.sherco.com/wayne/Sherco_Fork_Seal_Replacement.pdf) which applies to forks shipped on 1999-2003 Shercos.

I'm hoping to find a comparable tutorial for replacing the seals on the stock Sherco forks that shipped on my 2009 3.2. Does anyone have/know of such a resource?

Thanks much!
-Mark

[Neo]

catfishpancake, on May 7 2010, 02:30 PM, said:

Wayne Thais has a fantastic tutorial for replacing the fork seals on Paioli forks (www.sherco.com/wayne/Sherco_Fork_Seal_Replacement.pdf) which applies to forks shipped on 1999-2003 Shercos.
I'm hoping to find a comparable tutorial for replacing the seals on the stock Sherco forks that shipped on my 2009 3.2. Does anyone have/know of such a resource?
Thanks much!-Mark

Must be close to almost identical I think

Best of balance.
Neo

[tony27]

catfishpancake, on May 7 2010, 04:30 PM, said:

Wayne Thais has a fantastic tutorial for replacing the fork seals on Paioli forks (www.sherco.com/wayne/Sherco_Fork_Seal_Replacement.pdf) which applies to forks shipped on 1999-2003 Shercos.

I'm hoping to find a comparable tutorial for replacing the seals on the stock Sherco forks that shipped on my 2009 3.2. Does anyone have/know of such a resource?

Thanks much!
-Mark

The tutorial from Wayne should be good for forks from 01 to 05, they were not adjustable for those years.
The newer forks run a cartridge & are adjustable, big thing with the cartridge forks is that the cartridge holds on to some oil which if you don't get in out throws out the amounts in the fork.
I think Cope might have posted something of some use, how about sending Wayne a pm asking him to do a tutorial?

[catfishpancake]

tony27, on May 6 2010, 11:10 PM, said:

The tutorial from Wayne should be good for forks from 01 to 05, they were not adjustable for those years.
The newer forks run a cartridge & are adjustable, big thing with the cartridge forks is that the cartridge holds on to some oil which if you don't get in out throws out the amounts in the fork.
I think Cope might have posted something of some use, how about sending Wayne a pm asking him to do a tutorial?

Thank, Tony27. Indeed it does hold onto some oil if you don't work it out. The manual says that after loosening the bolt at the bottom of the fork you should compress the forks a few times to release all of the oil. I removed the cartridge prior to compressing the forks and then just moved the push rod in and out by hand and found that it held on to 60cc. That's a pretty huge amount seeing how the entire capacity of the fork is 330cc. So, thanks for pointing that out. One tip I have is to simply measure the old oil to make sure you are removing/replacing the proper volume.

For those following this thread that are interested in how Wayne's directions vary for the cartridge-type forks, well, it's pretty much the same. In lieu of a spring/spacer/fork assembly, there is a cartridge that has a push rod that goes in and out - it comes out as a single unit. The bolt at the bottom of the fork that allows you to drain the oil also keeps the cartridge in place at the bottom. The push rod coming out of the cartridge connects to the cap at the top. I'm a noobie, so there may be considerations that should be taken that I didn't. But after watching a few generic videos of how to replace seals on any cartridge-type motorcycle fork, I felt comfortable with just going for. It turns out to be a very simple job.

One thing that's been mentioned in another thread is a substitution for the fork driver tool. For $1.09 I got a foot of PVC pipe at my local hardware store that worked perfectly. Either take a good measurement, or do like I did and bring the fork leg in to the store to get the right diameter/thickness.

Edited by catfishpancake, 12 May 2010 - 03:37 PM.

[copemech]

catfishpancake, on May 12 2010, 10:28 AM, said:

Thank, Tony27. Indeed it does hold onto some oil if you don't work it out. The manual says that after loosening the bolt at the bottom of the fork you should compress the forks a few times to release all of the oil. I removed the cartridge prior to compressing the forks and then just moved the push rod in and out by hand and found that it held on to 60cc. That's a pretty huge amount seeing how the entire capacity of the fork is 330cc. So, thanks for pointing that out. One tip I have is to simply measure the old oil to make sure you are removing/replacing the proper volume.

For those following this thread that are interested in how Wayne's directions vary for the cartridge-type forks, well, it's pretty much the same. In lieu of a spring/spacer/fork assembly, there is a cartridge that has a push rod that goes in and out - it comes out as a single unit. The bolt at the bottom of the fork that allows you to drain the oil also keeps the cartridge in place at the bottom. The push rod coming out of the cartridge connects to the cap at the top. I'm a noobie, so there may be considerations that should be taken that I didn't. But after watching a few generic videos of how to replace seals on any cartridge-type motorcycle fork, I felt comfortable with just going for. It turns out to be a very simple job.

One thing that's been mentioned in another thread is a substitution for the fork driver tool. For $1.09 I got a foot of PVC pipe at my local hardware store that worked perfectly. Either take a good measurement, or do like I did and bring the fork leg in to the store to get the right diameter/thickness.

Sounds as though you got it down. I was going to try and write some long story, but it fell to the wayside. Likely just been confusing, as you just have to be there. All bottom line, same basics, get ALL the old oil out of the damper, and go back with the measures of quantity and everything is fine.

Brad at RYP would be the one to ask about doing an updated video of this. He is quick at it! Also uses a lot less foul language than me when things do not go properly!