Jump to content

Oset Batteries Lithium (LiPo) Conversion Directions


betarambo
 Share

Recommended Posts

try this..

 

i have not shown the balance taps as it will start to get messy and will look even more complicated than it really is.

attachicon.gifP lipo wireing.jpg

 

 

so my batteries and gear finally turned up today, very slow shipping from HK.

 

I'm planning on wiring up as per the diagram you posted Gwhy and split them in 2 x banks of 3 for charging with those X200 AC/DC chargers i previously linked. 

 

settings are listed here

http://www.imaxrc.com/images/pdf/X200%20ACDC%20manual%20en.pdf

 

Question what settings do i use for charging them like this?

 

Charge Amps?

0-10A

 

Discharge Amps?

0-3A

 

Cut off Low Input?

Range of setting:10-24V. Lowest cut off input voltage, charger will stop charging/discharging when input voltage is lower than setting value. 

 

Cut off Temperature?

Range of setting: 40-80°C. Cut off Temperature, char- ger will stop charging/discharging when temp of batteries is lower than setting value. 

 

Cut off Capacity?

Range of setting: 0.1Ah-10Ah. Safety capacity. Charger will Stop charging/discharging when capacity of batteries is higher than setting value. 

 

Cut off Time?

Range of setting: 10-200mins. Safety time, charger will stop charging/discharging, when charging/discharging time is less that setting value. 

 

LixxCheckTime?

Range of setting: 5-60mins. Time for checking cells count of LiPo battery pack. 

 

Waste Time?

Spacing interval between 2 Cycles. Range of setting: 1-60mins. 

 

Cycle Time?

Range of setting: 1-6 times. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by bowser
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

so my batteries and gear finally turned up today, very slow shipping from HK.

 

I'm planning on wiring up as per the diagram you posted Gwhy and split them in 2 x banks of 3 for charging with those X200 AC/DC chargers i previously linked. 

 

settings are listed here

http://www.imaxrc.com/images/pdf/X200%20ACDC%20manual%20en.pdf

 

Question what settings do i use for charging them like this?

 

Charge Amps?

0-10A

 

Discharge Amps?

0-3A

 

Cut off Low Input?

Range of setting:10-24V. Lowest cut off input voltage, charger will stop charging/discharging when input voltage is lower than setting value. 

 

Cut off Temperature?

Range of setting: 40-80°C. Cut off Temperature, char- ger will stop charging/discharging when temp of batteries is lower than setting value. 

 

Cut off Capacity?

Range of setting: 0.1Ah-10Ah. Safety capacity. Charger will Stop charging/discharging when capacity of batteries is higher than setting value. 

 

Cut off Time?

Range of setting: 10-200mins. Safety time, charger will stop charging/discharging, when charging/discharging time is less that setting value. 

 

LixxCheckTime?

Range of setting: 5-60mins. Time for checking cells count of LiPo battery pack. 

 

Waste Time?

Spacing interval between 2 Cycles. Range of setting: 1-60mins. 

 

Cycle Time?

Range of setting: 1-6 times. 

 

 

 

 

Balance charge the individual batteries first before you P any together, this makes sure that the battery's are in good condition and that all the cell within the battery's are ok.

 

charge up a value of 1c  i.e if each bank of 3 batterys are a total of 15ah then 15A charge would be 1c  and for 1 battery ( 5ah ) the charge rate should be no more than 5A.

 

once you have your 2 banks of 3 batterys then charge each bank at the max that the charger will do which will be 10A which will be fine for a 15ah battery.

discharge amps can be 3A but this is only used if you are cycling your batterys or you want to discharge them.

 

cutoff capacity should be the max ah of the battery that you are charging i.e if its a 15ah battery then set it to 15ah , but I recommend set it to 13-14ah to be on the safe side but if your charger will only go upto 10ah then this will have to do . At least it will be extra safe and also extend the life of the batterys

 

low cutoff voltage should be set to around 12v .. this should not really come into play as you have a internal psu on the chargers.

 

 

cut off time is th eamount of time that the charger will charge the batterys .. i.e if you have a 15ah battery charging @ 10a thien this will be a total time of around 1.5h charge (90mins) but dont forget to add the balance time of around a extra 30mins  so i would set for 120mins if charging at 10ah.

 

the other setting you dont really need to worry about and you can just leave them on the default values

 

if you have a temp sensor with your chargers then you can also set the max temp of around 50-60 and you place the temp sensor on the battery when charging, this will turn the charger off if the temp goes above the set temp

 

 

when the charger beeps to say that its completed charging always look at the screen to make sure it have finished completely and that it have not stopped charging for any other reason  i.e time,temp,capacity,low voltage

Edited by gwhy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Batteries are all wired up and installed, fully charged they are just over 42V, what is the minimum I can let they get down to before charging?

 

here you can see all the battery XT60 connections and the XT90 connections which I can disconnect to charge each bank of 3 batteries

 

20150917_134844_zps3tugwrbq.jpg

 

 

 

 

I went a little crazy with retaining them on the bike and used the existing battery bag and also one of the fire blanket charge bags just to protect the little guys a bit.

 

20150917_134827_zpsvruazh7q.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

depending what web site you read the minimum safe lowest voltage of a lipo is anywhere between 2.75v and 3.2v but I never go below 3.4 per cell for lipo  this give a good error margin should any cells discharge at a different rates.. So if you have 10 cells then that a absolute min discharge of 10 x 3.4= 34 volts..

 

Ideally you should hardwire your 2 banks of 5 cells together including the balance wires.. so you are dealling with just 2x 5s2p complete battery's,  with just one balance plug and one main discharge plug for each set of 5s2p.

 

edit:

  and also move the watt meter just in case it should get damaged if the bike gets dropped.

 

edit again..

  just realised you have a 10s3p setup so 2x 5s3p complete batterys

 

edit: yet again

   just correct a error on my min voltage per cell from 3.2v to 3.4v

Edited by gwhy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Thanks for that yet again, I was thinking it could only go down to 37V so a bit more riding time again.

 

Will move the watt meter up on top of the batteries, was just sitting there for the pics.

 

I'm definitely going to need to do something with the throttle, it's snappy as anything now, PITA for turning sharply when you want to go slow

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Went for a really good ride with the boys today, bike performed flawlessly and lasted way longer than I expected, still is at around 39V after their riding session. I was contemplating adding another 2 more batts to make it 20AH but don't think I will worry at this stage.

 

One of them had a good stack and broke the seat plastic so think i will just get a local person to knock up a replacement seat with padding more like a normal motorbike. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick question and sorry if this has already been mentioned (I've read quite a few pages back and can't see anything)

How much run time will you get out of a basic kit? I seem to recall a basic kit will set me back around £170.
I'm looking for a second set of batteries for my sons bike as it's about 3 years old and only lasts about an hour run time. I'm weighing it up between buying a second set of lead acid that I can swap mid ride when his old ones tire, or lipo.

If I was going to go down the lipo route, I would expect at least the same amount of run time that 2 sets of lead batteries would give me; am I being unreasonable thinking I can achieve this?

I've also watched quite a few oset trials with kids on thew newer bikes with lipo setup and they really know how to throw them around. Is this to do with newer models also being more lightweight or is it a lot to do with lipo and not using lead acid?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I honestly can't believe the run time i get from my recent lipo conversion. We took it bush last weekend and he would have done easily 12km of fire trails over a couple of hours and the battery dropped from 42v to 37v. I'm using 15ah setup and was going to add 2 more batts to make it 20ah but don't think will worry now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
  • 2 weeks later...
 
  • 2 months later...

What do you guys think about these. Multistar High Capacity 20000mAh Multi-Rotor Lipo Pack

 

 

They have them in 6S (22.2V) and 4S (14.8V)

 

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=80908         $138.60

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80900__Multistar_High_Capacity_4S_20000mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack.html          $98.08

 

 

Looks like they would fit flat inside battery tray on 16 bike. Also 20000mAh sounds like a lot :)

 

Anyone tried 44.4V 2x (6S) on the 36V model controller? (2015 bike)????

 

Or one 6S and one 4S @37V would be ideal?

Also am I correctly thinking that 20Ah would be heavenly???

 

I think 2 of these in either 2x6S (2 of them would be 200 x 90 x 120mm) or 6S and 4S  (2 of them would be 200 x 90 x 100mm) would be super clean with minimal wiring and plenty Ah. (maybe too much)

 

 

Thanks

Greg

 

 

post-18653-0-45760900-1451545413_thumb.png

post-18653-0-83072400-1451545439_thumb.png

Edited by greg555
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I have been using the 16000mah 6s packs for the last 3 months on my commuter e-bike and so far they are holding up well ( peak current 80A , 40cycles so far and still performing like new ), I have 4 packs ( total 32ah @ 48v) and the space taken is slightly more than a 10ah pack from 25c lipos so its a massive saving in space and a massive increase in capacity. 

 

they are advertised as 10c (20c peak ) but in real life they are more like 2c ( 5c peak ) so to get best performance from them and the max life cycle use at these levels.

 

because they are a lot lower c rating you also need to check cell levels more often when using them at the peak performance levels never use over 80% of there fully charger capacity and always check cell levels are at safe levels and within spec BEFORE you recharge.  

 

I would say for  a 16 oset you would need at least 16ah worth of these batterys and for the 20 oset at least 20ah .

 

for a 36v bike i would not use any more than 10s total as im not sure what value capacitors the 36v controller has in them, a fresh 12s is just over 50v and the 36v controllers may only have 50v caps in them.

 

you can never have to much Ah :-) , the more ah you have the longer your batterys will last ( and i dont mean just run time )... but you also need to remember that  the higher the ah the higher the power density which means you need to take even more care of your batterys.

Edited by gwhy
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

because they are a lot lower c rating you also need to check cell levels more often when using them at the peak performance levels never use over 80% of there fully charger capacity and always check cell levels are at safe levels and within spec BEFORE you recharge.   Still stick to no less than 3.4v per cell?

 

 

 

I've read the whole thread last night, even your drunk replies and have a good idea on how this all work and think 2 batteries per bike would be simpler than what some folks have done in the past.

 

I have 2 boys on 2x 16.5Rs and need to upgrade to something better but question still remains if I should do 6S and 4S or 6S+6S per bike. I like the idea of having 4 batteries because I could charge them all at once.

 

I have a decent charger and PSU for my multi-rotor but most I can charge at is 5A and wondering what sort of time will it take to charge 20Ah battery (4 of them). I've been pretty decent about my Lipo batteries except maybe for storing them charged for too long.

 

I was planning on making 4 super long balance charge extensions and balance charging every time. 

 

And of course now there's a question of lipo vs lifepo

 

Thanks

Greg

post-18653-0-57246800-1451581504_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

if you what to go the whole hog with a near 100% complete solution then once i have cycled the packs a few times to make sure there are no weak cells i combine 2 packs ( in my case 2x6s into a single 12s pack , you can then use a lifepo4 48v charger to charge the whole battery as one. 99% of all lifepo4 chargers the output can be adjusted for voltage and this needs to be set to 50.4v for a 12s lipo setup or if you are working on a 36v system ( 10s ) then adjust a 36v lifepo4 charger for 42v . this do not balance the cells so I use a cheap bms inline with my battery ( its not permently connected to the batterys ) this then becomes nearly a plug and play charging setup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
  • Create New...