13 replies to this topic

[millerme]

just in the middle of full rebuild and has anyone got advice on foot rest mods

been reading a few articles on the web and most say back an inch and down a inch

anybody done this mod to they bike any advice would be grateful before a start cutting the rest mounts off

[handsome_al]

Hi,

I did it to mine; cut the rests off, made my own drop-plates and welded them back in new position .... doesn't feel any different to me!
Mind you I'm about as subtle as a brick sh*thouse when it comes to feeling differences. Having said that though, it wheelies a lot easier.
I also realised afterwards that it makes the brake pedal too far forward and too high. You can rotate it downwards on the splines and adjust the rod but it's still out of reach. I ended-up shortening and re-welding mine to fit. Funnily enough I didn't notice any difference in leverage either! D'oh!

I'd be interested to hear how you find them ........ if you do the mod that is!

Good luck
AL

[2/4]

millerme, on 31 December 2011 - 06:49 PM, said:

just in the middle of full rebuild and has anyone got advice on foot rest mods

been reading a few articles on the web and most say back an inch and down a inch

anybody done this mod to they bike any advice would be grateful before a start cutting the rest mounts off

An easier compromise? My TY had been altered by the original owner - the footrests had an extra "rung" added to the rear to widen them for comfort (much like modern rests). I certainly found that, if wheelspin occurred, then flexing my ankles to put all my weight on the back edge certainly improved grip.

[Eddie_Lejeune]

i moved mine down and inch and back an inch, i did not have to shorten my brake lever, as i was still able to get me toe on it, size 9, i think it improves the ride slightly but still nothing like a modern bike

[Roester]

Eddie_Lejeune, on 01 January 2012 - 08:40 AM, said:

i moved mine down and inch and back an inch, i did not have to shorten my brake lever, as i was still able to get me toe on it, size 9, i think it improves the ride slightly but still nothing like a modern bike

I agree - if you are used to a modern bike, the riding position of the old Yams feels pretty strange for a while. Putting higher bars on is well worth trying, particularly if you are tall or have a Pinky model (the shock shaft is a bit longer on them - in 1991 and 1992 most of the team riders ran slightly higher bars to compensate for the back end being a bit higher).

I've got 5.5" Renthals and lowered the pegs a bit (Sammy Miller weld on brackets and pegs)and the bike is really neutral and feels great. I didn't move the pegs back much at all after two of my mates, both long standing Yam riders, said that it upsets the balance of the bike, making the back end heavy and the front a bit harder work on climbs. I guess it is all down to personal taste though...

Cheers - Alan

[kevin j]

I think the chris johnson mods takes the pegs down the frame about an inch and forward, not backward.
See bruce andersons website, cableone or something like that. He has chris' mods there.
I think the TY is already light in front and feels really tall for balance.
I have not tried but plan too soon.
I did add bar risers, from a guy in Canada, about $85 I t hink, that move the bars forward and up. That helps the feel quite a bit. forward helps as much as up.

kcj

[htrdoug]

kevin j, on 10 January 2012 - 11:57 PM, said:

I think the chris johnson mods takes the pegs down the frame about an inch and forward, not backward.
See bruce andersons website, cableone or something like that. He has chris' mods there.
I think the TY is already light in front and feels really tall for balance.
I have not tried but plan too soon.
I did add bar risers, from a guy in Canada, about $85 I t hink, that move the bars forward and up. That helps the feel quite a bit. forward helps as much as up.

kcj

I moved my pegs down and forward about a inch both,helped but even with the shock spring cranked to max preload and the clip in the greatest preload position I still have to really concentrate to keep my head in line with the tire tracks while turning to prevent tipping in at full lock,the front end still feels too light.Sometime this winter I'd like to move the shock mount to raise the back of the bike another inch.I'd also like to get a custom top clamp made to take modern bar mounts,May have to wait awhile,have her on loan to a buddy of mine to ride with his son who just started on a Oset.

[millerme]

hi thanks for the reply i think i drop them 1 inch and move them forward a inch and make new top yoke on the C.N.C machine in work with the handle bar clamps moved forward a 1 inch

[JSE]

kevin j, on 10 January 2012 - 11:57 PM, said:

I think the chris johnson mods takes the pegs down the frame about an inch and forward, not backward.
See bruce andersons website, cableone or something like that. He has chris' mods there.
I think the TY is already light in front and feels really tall for balance.
I have not tried but plan too soon.
I did add bar risers, from a guy in Canada, about $85 I t hink, that move the bars forward and up. That helps the feel quite a bit. forward helps as much as up.

kcj

I sent an e-mail to Chris as to exactly what he did with the pegs and will report what he says.

Jon

[JSE]

JSE, on 11 January 2012 - 09:49 PM, said:

I sent an e-mail to Chris as to exactly what he did with the pegs and will report what he says.

Jon

Chris tells me that his peg placement was dependent of several other mods he did: "Critical was the lengthening of the swingarm, cutting the snailcam plate forward of the axle hole and adding 1.5" long, 1/4" thick plate and TIG welding.

Just behind the steering head, hacksaw 1/8" out of the horizontal smaller tube below the backbone. Fit tie downs between the left and right side of the axle and the footpegs. Tension them Heat the backbone just behind the head. The tie down tension will pull the horizontal tube tight and bend the backbone. Reweld.

The next mod is done to handlebar placement. The TY bar clamps are angled back. Very old world. Reposition? The clamps could be cut to be parallel on top as with modern bikes, and lower handlebar front edge should intersect the back edge of the fork tubes.

With the other mods done, use the G-Gs as a reference for where the pegs should be in terms of percentage of space between peg centerline and front and rear axles. Also follow G-G, trying to get the pegs as low as reasonable. The TY pegs are goofy high with respect to the bottom of the skid plate. The G-Gs are so low the pegs are always scraping on things, and the bottoms of the peg mounts are below the plane of the skid plate.

I'd also toss the Yamaha method of mounting pegs and not use the stock pegs and go modern, using u-mounts and modern, wider pegs. I'd probably create a plate to weld the u-mounts to, then weld all that to the frame. It's better for pegs to be out more anyway."

His idea to use a modern bike for measurement to get ideas as to what direction to take makes sense.

Jon

[millerme]

thanks jon

for the info i will do all the mods you have listed and will start this weekend doing them and will keep you posted and i will take some pics of the build stages

[JSE]

millerme, on 12 January 2012 - 07:46 PM, said:

thanks jon

for the info i will do all the mods you have listed and will start this weekend doing them and will keep you posted and i will take some pics of the build stages

Great! I'd love to see how it comes along.

Cheers.
Jon

[JSE]

millerme, on 12 January 2012 - 07:46 PM, said:

thanks jon

for the info i will do all the mods you have listed and will start this weekend doing them and will keep you posted and i will take some pics of the build stages

I gave Chris the TC link so maybe we can get his expert advice in person. He really has come up with some excellent modifications for a number of bikes and his present Fantic, which he still owns and rides, is a prime example.

Jon

[Eddie_Lejeune]

If anyone is going to do that amount of work why not go the full hog and put a rear disc on it; I done that with mine and it's a good mod because it saves having to clean and dry a drum every time/.