Diy Wheel Bearing Removal Tool

[mokwepa]

Hi

I know im not the one to come up with this but I couldnt find a pic of one when I needed it.

Some bikes (my13 evo 300) dont have a floating spacer inside the hub. The spacer tube has a lip that makes it almost impossible to drive the opposite bearing out with a drift and hammer.

Find a piece of pipe as close to your axle diameter as you can (a bit smaller is fine just not bigger). Find a raw bolt that will fit inside the pipe. Cut a few (I did 2 but 4 or 6 would be better) slots in the end of the pipe. Weld a T Handle onto the pipe. Not good at explaining but it should look like the pic or similar.

To remove wheel bearing, insert tool end into bearing inner race, tighten bolt until tool grips bearing inner nice and tight, use big drift from opposite side and tap bearing out.

Hope my explanation is not too crude.

Cheers

[mags]

Nice bit of fabrication there!

Just remember when installing a bearing you should always use a press.

When pressing on a shaft you use a mandrel on the inner race, this stops the balls or rollers seeing any sideways force potentially bruising the running surface. If you shock load the bearing (via a hammer) it can really bruise the race with earlier failure the result.

When pressing into bore you use a mandrel on the outer race this stop any sideways force on the inner.

Shock loading the bearing, even if the right mandrel position, can still bruise the rollers or balls into the races.

I like to stay away from the Chinese made bearings and use Japanese or German ones, you may pay a few more dollars but you get a better quality controlled bearing and seals. IMHO.

If no press… its amazing what you can make up with a bit of threaded rod and some pipe just under the diameter of the outer or inner race. Threaded rod can be spannered up and applies no shock load. Put the rod through like an axle pipe and flat plate with holos drilled in it, on one end to bearing… other end through a piece of thick flat plate (with hole drilled to size of rod) that rests against wheel on other side. 3/8" dia. or 1/2" dia. (would be better) threaded rod would do the job.

Make sure the pipes are square on ends, not slight angle as this may cock the bearing into its recess. If someone you know has a lathe best to get them squared off that way if possible. If not, cut with hacksaw and use a file and T-square to get ends perpendicular to pipe.

Bit of mucking around but you will have a bearing tool in the cupboard forever...

Mags

Edited May 30, 2014 by mags

[anotherfive]

When you have the centre spacer out you can also cut or grind a small V into one end. This then allows you to get a drift onto the inner race in next time and drive out old bearing. I also use rawlbolt method but usually for removing the stubborn out spacers without damaging them. All good tips, keep em coming.

[mokwepa]

When you have the centre spacer out you can also cut or grind a small V into one end. This then allows you to get a drift onto the inner race in next time and drive out old bearing. I also use rawlbolt method but usually for removing the stubborn out spacers without damaging them. All good tips, keep em coming.

Thanks, I forgot to add that bit in

I did 2 notches on my centre tube, opposite each other but on the same end of the spacer tube. You only need notches on one side, once that sides bearing is out, other side is straight forward.

[zippy]

Thanks, I forgot to add that bit in

I did 2 notches on my centre tube, opposite each other but on the same end of the spacer tube. You only need notches on one side, once that sides bearing is out, other side is straight forward.

But I would never remember which side has the notches!