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  1. I was unaware of the sale. but to be fair there is much I am unaware of in life.
  2. Been here for a few years myself. On Advrider I also advertise my bike of choice.
  3. Check your transmission fluid level, if you have a leaking clutch side crankshaft seal it will suck in trans fluid and burn it causing excess smoke. Not sure on fuel consumption, I never measured, just rode it and filled up when necessary.
  4. Clean the bike???? oh no no no. every time I clean the bike something is broken. No clean the bike = nothing broken. I transport my bike(s) either in the bed of a pickup or on a trailer. So I never really thought about a need to clean the bike before transport, but I can see in certain cases where it would be a concern. Have you considered a hitch mounted carrier? (assuming your vehicle will accept one)
  5. I believe it is a designed "weep hole" to indicate failing water pump seal(s) as stated by b40rt and tshock250 If I remember correctly that is a 2 seal design, a seal for the coolant side and a seal for the oil side with a gap between. The weep hole is situated in the gap between the seals. Benefit is you can tell which seal is bad by what is leaking out of the weep hole. but I would suggest changing both seals, because they have both been in there the same length of time with same use etc..
  6. this video shows the new style crank bearing (w/ seals) and how to retro fit to older Pro engines. more videos; https://www.youtube.com/c/TRIALSPARTSUSA/videos there used to be a good video by Jim of tearing down a GasGas pro engine, I am unable to locate at this time good resource for parts diagragms https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html click parts books and find your year.
  7. You should be able to purchase a matched cylinder / piston set. with a return of your cylinder for a "core". easier than finding a place to replate etc. I recommend new crank bearings and seals if you feel vertical play. (you are halfway torn down anyway) Pro crank bearings are lubricated with transmission oil, so be sure the hole in the races match the hole in the case. My 0.02
  8. That is the "kickstart stop" Credit Hell Team: https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html
  9. yep, get some feeler gauges, and tap that electrode on something solid. I always check the gap of my plugs and adjust as necessary.
  10. YAY!!!!!! Easy fixes are the best fixes
  11. Remove linkage and attach shifter direct to shift shaft, first, Rule out the cheap easy stuff first. Let us know how it goes.
  12. No shame in knowing your limits. You think the top guys spin wrenches on the bikes they ride? There are many websites that offer parts, be advised some parts have been discontinued but many are still available. a few possible options: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/ https://www.bikebandit.com/ https://www.hondapartshouse.com/ https://www.partzilla.com/ https://www.hondapartsnation.com/honda-motorcycle-parts
  13. Some information and some opinion. First the opinion, I used to own a tLR200 Reflex. Fun bike, I had the gear shift lever attached direct to the shift shaft. It was mounted vertically, forward for down shift, backward to upshift. This kept it up out of the way and mostly protected, and reduced possible accidental shifts. Question: does the shift lever need moved back to horizontal with every downshift or just when shifting into first? Information, Parts schematics are available on most online parts suppliers for the major Japanese manufacturers. I suspect you have an issue with the shift shaft and return mechanism. Possible 1 "side" of the return spring (#12) is broken off. This will be located under the clutch cover. front of bike in picture would be on the left. Hope you find the issue
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