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Creepytheclutchmaster

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About Creepytheclutchmaster

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Gasgas txt 270

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  • Location
    Hinckley

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  1. Just buy the tool. If you use a slide hammer you could loosen or damage the magnets inside the flywheel or if your realy unlucky crack the bearing housing in the casings. If the flywheel has been on for years then a slide hammer may not get it off anyway.
  2. Best idea would be to look on a gas gas spare parts schimatic for your bike. it will be clearer to exactly whare and which way round it goes.
  3. There is a 2005 scorpa sy250 on ebay now for 1200, might be a better buy than the older gasser.
  4. If its a total shed about 500 quid, if its rideable but needs seals bushings chain sprockets wheel bearings 750- 1000 quid.if it's good to go with new tyre's absolutely everything works it would be worth between 1500-2000. Look for a 2002 - 2008 beta rev 3.had loads of them over the years loads of cheap spares online, thay are the best out the old bikes.
  5. Last option a broken or poorly fitting wood ruff key on the crank the fly wheel may still seem tight but once it starts the fly wheel shifts on the crank and creates bad timeing, some times clicks back in place to seem OK. I had this happen on a 1991 yz125 it took ages to work out the problem went down the it must be cdi stator rewind route, it would run one minute and the next become erratic.
  6. I found over the years of owning old knackered bikes its never intermitant cdi, regulator or coil thay usually either work or thay don't. Bad on off switches are the usual culprit or corroded earths. If it sparks well enough to see and hear your stators fine, its pretty hard to get old sherco stator timeing wrong on all the shercos iv had the stator will only fit in its original position with one timeing mark unless you bend and pull all the wires about and ovalise the bolt holes. Unless you have an aftermarket stator.
  7. Have you connected the carb breather pipes wrong if you connect the breather outlets on both sides it will not run right,take all breather pipes off apart front the overflow. Check your petrol cap breather isn't blocked. take the float bowl off there is a tiny choke inlet that runs in the cast section of some of the sherco carb float bowls it's tiny it runs to the brass looking thin pipe jet that stands up in the float bowl can't think of what it actually called make sure it hasent become filld with like a varnish sludge. You may also have put the stator back on slightly out of position but it's not that likely as thay usually only go in its original position. Blow compressed air up the fuel over flow pipe not much just a tiny quick blast.
  8. Iv put a 140cc pit bike engine in a bultaco sherpa 125 rolling chassis works OK, but the gear ratio's aren't the best even with changing sprokets it's abit of a scrambler realy, you will find the same problem with the upright air cooled engines as thay are all geard for the road realy and don't have the flywheel weight of the original engine design , Still a fun project though and still a usable bike, mines even got a hydrolic clutch, it's better than a rolling chassis sitting in the corner of the shed, And makes a change from the rev 3.
  9. Sherco 290 or beta rev3, shercos don't have the best adjustments on the forks but are slightly lighter than the rev 3
  10. Cracks in your air box, poorly fitted air filter or perished inlet manifold. doubt it's an electrical issue if choke fixes it until the next stream splash.
  11. The cdi wireing from the stator goes up the left frame drop out between the radeator, it tucks in. the cdi box and regulator etc are all the top tucked away near the filler cap. The ht lead is usually ran over the fan frame and to the spark plug.
  12. Try wareing an epicondilitis band alot, ibuprofen rest and massage. Iv had it years comes and goes it's always worse in the winter for me.the only time it went was when I broke my scapula and didn't move my right arm much for weeks on end, it's came back a bit now but not as bad as it was. You can get an injection directly in to the area but it's very hard to get it on the NHS unless it's so bad your off work for ages and apparently it doesn't work for everyone anyway.
  13. My fiberglass bultaco sherpa tank kept sending the fuel a rusty orangey yellow, so iv cut the bottom off to use as a shroud and brought a small cheap metal tank to go underneath its not perfect I don't care.
  14. Try using a low powered electric impact driver on the puller bolt, the continuous shocks might loosen the corrosion between the crank shaft and fly wheel /woodruff key, obviously you don't want to go mad at it as a impact driver will be capable of stripping threds if you could get one you can turn the power down on or something?. There is a spray called shock and unlock, iv tryed it and have to admit its not amazing but if you've tried everything it's a last resort. Maybe wd40 and heat, then shock and unlock with abit of rattling it might pop.
  15. Lay it on its side and spray wd40 down the woodruff key slot if there is one and leave overnight. Heat gun it and repeat.
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