Creepytheclutchmaster

Hi all found a good running tr34 picked it up yesterday the engine runs and starts very well which is a bonus but the cluch started to become abit random after about 20mins light slow rideing in tight flat Woods sometimes engaging far out (lever wise) and other times nearer the bar which is whare I like it.when I first took it out I could also seem to find a false neutral if you keep pushing down past first. But it's seems to have stopped doing it now lol which is weard.any info would be much appreciated and does anyone know what the best gearbox oil is for these engines. I'm thinking putoline light gear but any ideas from other owners. Cheers.

Take the radeator air box and skid plate off it makes things a lot easier, sometimes getting the skid plate back on can be a mission if it's been bent in the past . A hydrolic lift stand helps alot.

Just buy the tool. If you use a slide hammer you could loosen or damage the magnets inside the flywheel or if your realy unlucky crack the bearing housing in the casings. If the flywheel has been on for years then a slide hammer may not get it off anyway.

Best idea would be to look on a gas gas spare parts schimatic for your bike. it will be clearer to exactly whare and which way round it goes.

There is a 2005 scorpa sy250 on ebay now for 1200, might be a better buy than the older gasser.

If its a total shed about 500 quid, if its rideable but needs seals bushings chain sprockets wheel bearings 750- 1000 quid.if it's good to go with new tyre's absolutely everything works it would be worth between 1500-2000. Look for a 2002 - 2008 beta rev 3.had loads of them over the years loads of cheap spares online, thay are the best out the old bikes.

Last option a broken or poorly fitting wood ruff key on the crank the fly wheel may still seem tight but once it starts the fly wheel shifts on the crank and creates bad timeing, some times clicks back in place to seem OK. I had this happen on a 1991 yz125 it took ages to work out the problem went down the it must be cdi stator rewind route, it would run one minute and the next become erratic.

I found over the years of owning old knackered bikes its never intermitant cdi, regulator or coil thay usually either work or thay don't. Bad on off switches are the usual culprit or corroded earths. If it sparks well enough to see and hear your stators fine, its pretty hard to get old sherco stator timeing wrong on all the shercos iv had the stator will only fit in its original position with one timeing mark unless you bend and pull all the wires about and ovalise the bolt holes. Unless you have an aftermarket stator.

Have you connected the carb breather pipes wrong if you connect the breather outlets on both sides it will not run right,take all breather pipes off apart front the overflow. Check your petrol cap breather isn't blocked. take the float bowl off there is a tiny choke inlet that runs in the cast section of some of the sherco carb float bowls it's tiny it runs to the brass looking thin pipe jet that stands up in the float bowl can't think of what it actually called make sure it hasent become filld with like a varnish sludge. You may also have put the stator back on slightly out of position but it's not that likely as thay usually only go in its original position. Blow compressed air up the fuel over flow pipe not much just a tiny quick blast.

Iv put a 140cc pit bike engine in a bultaco sherpa 125 rolling chassis works OK, but the gear ratio's aren't the best even with changing sprokets it's abit of a scrambler realy, you will find the same problem with the upright air cooled engines as thay are all geard for the road realy and don't have the flywheel weight of the original engine design , Still a fun project though and still a usable bike, mines even got a hydrolic clutch, it's better than a rolling chassis sitting in the corner of the shed, And makes a change from the rev 3.

Sherco 290 or beta rev3, shercos don't have the best adjustments on the forks but are slightly lighter than the rev 3

Cracks in your air box, poorly fitted air filter or perished inlet manifold. doubt it's an electrical issue if choke fixes it until the next stream splash.

The cdi wireing from the stator goes up the left frame drop out between the radeator, it tucks in. the cdi box and regulator etc are all the top tucked away near the filler cap. The ht lead is usually ran over the fan frame and to the spark plug.

Try wareing an epicondilitis band alot, ibuprofen rest and massage. Iv had it years comes and goes it's always worse in the winter for me.the only time it went was when I broke my scapula and didn't move my right arm much for weeks on end, it's came back a bit now but not as bad as it was. You can get an injection directly in to the area but it's very hard to get it on the NHS unless it's so bad your off work for ages and apparently it doesn't work for everyone anyway.

My fiberglass bultaco sherpa tank kept sending the fuel a rusty orangey yellow, so iv cut the bottom off to use as a shroud and brought a small cheap metal tank to go underneath its not perfect I don't care.

Try using a low powered electric impact driver on the puller bolt, the continuous shocks might loosen the corrosion between the crank shaft and fly wheel /woodruff key, obviously you don't want to go mad at it as a impact driver will be capable of stripping threds if you could get one you can turn the power down on or something?. There is a spray called shock and unlock, iv tryed it and have to admit its not amazing but if you've tried everything it's a last resort. Maybe wd40 and heat, then shock and unlock with abit of rattling it might pop.

Lay it on its side and spray wd40 down the woodruff key slot if there is one and leave overnight. Heat gun it and repeat.

When I had a 2015 20r one of the power dials went intermittent, it was the power one. Your bike should wheely easy up full power. I'm 13 stone and my modified oset 20r picked up the front end no probs. The elecs were the only bit that wasn't modified,check under the dials see if the wires are corroding my middle dial was rusty even thow it was covered by dialectric grease.

I wouldn't bother until it has such little compression it doesn't run and sounds like a bag of spanners lol. Check your thermostat is working regularly thow got my rev 3 out today and the thermostat is dead.was working fine when I put it away a month or so ago.

It probably won't fix your problem because of the age of the carb, you probably have a worn out fuel valve. But my new brand new mikuni vm 26 started permanently p****** fuel the other day. a little trick that found out trawling the Web was to blast compressed air up the overflow pipe clearing out grit or silt stopping the fuel valve closing. I used a can of compressed air as I don't have an air line it worked and my carb has been fine since.

Cheers for the info il look in to the tank's.

Do you know of a metal replacement tank that people use specifically for the bultaco sherpa or is it a case of just find some thing and make it fit. How do you go about lineing the inside of the tank with fuel resistant resin?, I assume just chuck it in swish it around loads and let it set??, what is the fuel resistant resin called cheers.

The sump drain plug is the large alloy Allen key bolt on the underside of the engine, it should be able to be accessed by a hole in the alloy bash plate. To free the clutch off properly id take all the clutch plates out get some very fine sand paper and gently sand each friction plate. (not the metal one's). using some gear oil on the sand paper on a perfectly flat surface in a figure of 8 or circular sanding motion you don't need to sand much off probably 30 seconds per side with not much pressure pushing down on the plates. I used p1000 from halfords it's work form a few times over the year's.

Hi all I have a 1974 sherpa t fuel tank that has been cleaned out 3 time's, but after sitting with fresh fuel in it for 20mins or so I'm getting a yellowy brow colour liquid selling in the fuel pipe. I'm wondering if these old tanks can handle new age fuel or is it slowly desolving lol. I'm thinking about cutting the outer shroud of the tank off and using some other tank underneath to keep the original look. The original tank look like it fiberglass or something. Cheers

Not shure on the weight I'd say somewhere between 15 and 20 kg. Thay are called a zongshen zs190cc with 212cc bore kits available. Iv ridden the 190cc engine and thay are quite powerful sound pretty good to. the first generation engine had a problem of dropping out of second gear thow and needed a slight mod to the shifter star.my yx140 engine is mounted with a engine hanger I made out of mild steel 3mm sheet, basically L shaped plates cut out, drilled and grinded to fit , then mounted of the original engine mounts so I can still fit an original engine if I come across a good one. If I fit a 190/212 engine il probably have to modify the frame more as thay are slightly longer and wider. Il get some more pictures next time I'm in the shed.