Creepytheclutchmaster

I think you can do your forks at home no problem mate. The only hard bit with rebuilding your forks is pressing in the oil seal in, unless you have completely stripped the shim stack in the damper and thrown all the shims in a box or something lol. Then it can be abit confusing. You may also need a set of circlip pliers but thay are cheap. Give splatshop a call he might be able to get you a schimatic of the forks or advise you on a suspension specialist.

Try watching jimsnells fork rebuild videos on YouTube, most trials forks of that year are very similar. Gasgas, beta, shercos mostly have paioli forks. You will need a oil seal driver thow to make it easier, or you can make one out of 38mm id plastic tubeing. Failing that there is a shop called leasure trail uk in Beeston thay sell trials bikes might be able to help.

Be brave go for a full body suite ?, try some downhill mountain bikeing trousers abit lighter and stretcher than motocross trousers, abit thicker than trials trousers, look in leasure lakes bike shop.

That's weird I can't see how that would effect it im stumped mate.

Did you fall off the bike and the bike end up landing on its right hand side for a while, as the gearbox oil could pool in the clutch side then get sucked in the breather hole as you stand the bike back up straight and carry on riding. there is a small cavatiy behind whare the breather attaches to the caseings if that has filled up with gearbox oil it might spray oil out for abit until its cleared, I used a vacume pump to clear mine.

A good test is to attach a longer pipe to the breather pipe, warm the bike up put the pipe in a bucket of water and if it bubbles like crazy when you rev the bike your main baring seals have worn-out.

It may be the right hand main bearing seal is failing and pressurising the clutch basket side of the caseings, the hole that feeds the breather pipe is behind the top of the clutch basket. I had a sherco 125 chucking out oil from the breather it wasn't hissing though, that sounds like a complete seal failure. It may not be thow as I was always under the impression that the seals were to stop the crank sucking oil in and not the other way around.

I used to look on a website called gasgas museum, it had everything on it but i had a look the other day and alot of the newer years have disappeared. Maybe being updated or something.

Mister minit will resole any boot but its not cheap it was about 60 quid a few years ago. So I just brought some new boot's instead. If your boots are really expensive it may be worth it but mine were just the hebo middle of the range jobbys so wasn't worth it.

I brought a sherco 125 a few months ago was told it was an 07, got there and it was clearly an 04 at best as it sead it on the bloody plastics. turned out to be a late 03 by the frame numbers lol. Luckily I was buying it cheap as a non runner so I wasn't to bothered so many lieing toe rags out there.

Doing figures of 8 in second gear feathering the clutch a modulating the brakes is good practice if you can't get out and about at the moment. It helped me out no end. And even something as simple as a scaffolding plank on the floor to get throttle blip timeing down. blip the front wheel off it and try to bunny hop the back over it. You'll be popping little bunny hops in no time.

Hi if it's the yamaha tyz 125 four-stroke engine you have. then it's pretty much the same engine as the yamaha ybr125 Air cooled engine. There is loads of videos on YouTube of people fitting 150 kits to the Ybr125 engines.

Had the same thing happen on a sherco 125,fitted the shift lever at to much of a high angle and it woukd not shift in anything but first and neutral, if its not that you may have some tiny shards of gear metal stuck in the shift drum channels stopping smooth selection. also the nitride coating on the drum can Ware out or get chipped and that will also stop smooth selection.

Could be, I still think your head or bace gasket have gone, as burning fuel in the exhaust pipe or first muffler box will still usually only smell like 2 stroke, I cleaned my mid box with a blowtorch and it didn't smell like burning rubber, the acrid smell sounds like burning antifreeze.take the carb and reed valve off if it's sucking in enough antifreeze to stop it running you should be able to see little green droplets condensating on the con rod and back of the Piston (depending on the colour of your antifreeze).

What bike is it.

Why would a broken woodruff key make it smell like burning though?, shurly that would just affect the timeing and stop it from starting and running normally. I had a woodruff key snap on a yz125 and it just stopped it running starting, occasionally poped and spluttered. It Didn't make it smell like burning.

It's normal, seems to be the same on all the bikes iv ever worked on motocross and trials. most pistons are forged so once the gudgen pin is fitted the little end bearing can't make its way out by has side play,I always used to think there should be a couple of small bearings in there taking up the space. I assume the bearing must just centre itself in the conrod end in how its designed.

Or the head gasket or bace gasket may have failed and your burning abit or antifreeze.

Sound like the clutch side main bearing seal has failed and its sucking up gearbox oil and burning it. Take the carb and reed valve off and you will be able to tell if its sucking oil in.

Il answer this one as well, if your first gear goes on any of the older sherco engines 125,290etc all gear boxes are the same cluster. you will need atleast the whole gear axle as first gear is part of the main axle and more than likely the other gears will be damaged from the shards of the first gear shattering.

I'll answer my own question. no the clutch basket must come off because its attached to the gearbox main axle . For anybody considering splitting cases you will definitely need an impact wrench.

Hi all just started stripping my engine to replace a damaged first gear and inspect the mains etc. Cylinder off, clutch casings off, flywheel removed along with all the casings bolts and the casings have opened up slightly. Is it possible to split the engine without taking all the clutch side to pieces. The casings have already opened up about 1mm pretty easy but obviously I don't want to force it, I'm awaiting delivery of a cluch hub holder to remove the clutch basket side, but it seems it might be possible to pop one half of the casings away and leave the crank still in the bearing on clutch side cheers.

Looks to me like it's just a tab lock washer, I usually just carefully tap them out using a wide flat screwdriver, depending on how many times its been done over the years you should be able to use the same washer. You will know if it's weak because it will pry up easily.

Hi iv got a gasgas pampera mk1 seems a pretty rare model as I can't find much information about them, does anyone know if the engine on the mark 1 is the same as all the other ones in that year. looks fairly similar apart from the radiator is abit bigger.

Hi all iv got a sherco 125 with a poorly first gear. It's got a tapping sound when selected and rideing, all the other gears work fine, anyone had a first gear go on them and if was a single cog repair or a cluster cheers.