Don't want these Ads? Why not sign up as a Trials Central Supporter.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
wispyone

Dave cooper rack on a volvo

14 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

Good morning, iv had a good search around the site and still can't find the answer. I'm looking at getting my first trials bike and need to sort a method of transport

What I'm after is if I get a rack for the back of my Volvo V40 (63plate) and have the bike secured will the boot still open? And how close to the rear of the car will it be? 

If anyone has pictures of the above set up it would be appreciated 

 

Cheers 

 

Richard 

Edited by wispyone

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't want these Ads? Why not sign up as a Trials Central Supporter.

I use a Dave Cooper on a V60 which has a similar profile. No you can't open the hatch when it's on. You can loosen it and pull it away and get it open but it will not be secure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
27 minutes ago, telecat said:

I use a Dave Cooper on a V60 which has a similar profile. No you can't open the hatch when it's on. You can loosen it and pull it away and get it open but it will not be secure.

Thank you telecat, just need to sort a towbar now :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I would recommend the Witter detachable "flange" :rolleyes: towbar. The racks only work with the Flange type with a detachable tow ball.  I have used them with the Dave Cooper for 8 years with no problems. The Dave Cooper we have dates back to 2001 and it has been used on several cars. All the bits are still in good if slightly rusty condition as the ones back then weren't galvanised.

Edited by telecat
clearer meaning.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Evening telecat, I messaged Dave Cooper and he stated I need a 2 bolt flange towbar with 7 pin electrics. Looking at the Witter towbars for my car they are around £450 (gulp)

I have had a quote of £309 from indespension, fully fitted for a 2 bolt flange with electrics .

Not gonna jump in yet as I am still looking for a first bike :)

On another note if and when I get a bike i may see you down at Bumpy, it's 5 mins down the road from my house. Perfect 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

17 minutes ago, wispyone said:

Evening telecat, I messaged Dave Cooper and he stated I need a 2 bolt flange towbar with 7 pin electrics. Looking at the Witter towbars for my car they are around £450 (gulp)

I have had a quote of £309 from indespension, fully fitted for a 2 bolt flange with electrics .

Not gonna jump in yet as I am still looking for a first bike :)

On another note if and when I get a bike i may see you down at Bumpy, it's 5 mins down the road from my house. Perfect 

 Ebuy around £120.00 for Witter towbar and ball including single electrics loom fit yourself ...its not a difficult job.

Edited by oni nou
3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try ECCO in Bradford. Never paid anything like that for a Witter from them and they have fitted all of them.

 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I managed to get lucky and picked up a used Witter flange towbar for my Skoda for £60. Generally flange towbars are more expensive than swan neck ones.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for all the replies in relation to tow bars, I have now got car booked in for one fitting next week.

One area of concern though is securing the bike to rack, ok it will be strapped down so it won't move/fall off. But what about little scrotes  at filling stations etc walking past with a knife and cutting straps and nicking the bike?

Do you also lock/chain them on or am I being paranoid?

 

Richard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, wispyone said:

Thank you for all the replies in relation to tow bars, I have now got car booked in for one fitting next week.

One area of concern though is securing the bike to rack, ok it will be strapped down so it won't move/fall off. But what about little scrotes  at filling stations etc walking past with a knife and cutting straps and nicking the bike?

Do you also lock/chain them on or am I being paranoid?

 

Richard

Chain and lock from towing eye on car to rear wheel/front wheel of bike ?

Edited by oni nou
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also if you fit a lanyard type kill switch then you have another obstacle which would be starting the motor for a getaway if they did get the bike off the rack.

Edited by oni nou
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used two straps both about 10 metres long. I hooked on to the rear front loop, wrapped it round the rear tyre though the top hoop several times leaving enough to go though the ratchet which was on the rear hook. The Front went from the rear loop. twice around the fork leg though the wheel twice around the outer fork leg and though the ratchet and gently tightened up. The Ratchet goes on the same loop on the crossbar as the strap.I used some Pipe insulation on the rear Upright to stop the wheel paint being rubbed away. Even if it was cut the rear would need them to stand and unravel it before making off. The Bike went as far as Surrey from Leeds and back using this method. It allows the bike to move gently but not dismount.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
46 minutes ago, telecat said:

I used two straps both about 10 metres long. I hooked on to the rear front loop, wrapped it round the rear tyre though the top hoop several times leaving enough to go though the ratchet which was on the rear hook. The Front went from the rear loop. twice around the fork leg though the wheel twice around the outer fork leg and though the ratchet and gently tightened up. The Ratchet goes on the same loop on the crossbar as the strap.I used some Pipe insulation on the rear Upright to stop the wheel paint being rubbed away. Even if it was cut the rear would need them to stand and unravel it before making off. The Bike went as far as Surrey from Leeds and back using this method. It allows the bike to move gently but not dismount.

 

Ha that's a point I need to add ratchet straps to the never ending shopping list :)

Towbar, rack, ratchet straps, number plate board, ground anchor, another lock and chain ( have a decent one at present but not sure it's long enough for both bikes) bike stand......... oh and boots, trousers, jacket.    Gulp !

And a bike.   :)

Edited by wispyone

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, wispyone said:

Ha that's a point I need to add ratchet straps to the never ending shopping list :)

Towbar, rack, ratchet straps, number plate board, ground anchor, another lock and chain ( have a decent one at present but not sure it's long enough for both bikes) bike stand......... oh and boots, trousers, jacket.    Gulp !

And a bike.   :)

Once you have all the gear above, its a relatively cheap sport. (Apart from breakages !!)

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0