4 replies to this topic

[uhoh7]

So I have been tring to get my 300 pro so one finger will disengage the clutch.

I turned the lever plunger in, and it was good for a bit. but now you have to pull it in so far you can't go with one finger, and even then it doesn't want to idle.

Here's a pic:



obviously I am not adjusting it correctly-- do I need to bleed?

also as you see in pic, the rubber boot is out---it WILL NOT stay in there? Am I missing something?

thanks so much,

uhoh7


PS well I now see the problem, hehe, fluid is empty. Can someone shoot me a link to bleeding instructions?

Edited by uhoh7, 03 July 2006 - 09:16 PM.

[ned1]

hmmmm i think it's probably the clutch plates....mine went not so long ago and my bike dragged like hell because the clutch wouldnt disengage.It is a really simple job and should take you about 30 minutes although i also changed the spring and washers in the piston of the clutch(inside the casing).Although i would bleed it first to see if that works if not replace the spring and washers and that in the clutch piston(inside the case)and see if that works if not new plates definatly i think!
hope i've helped o and altogether it cost me about £80 for the plates springs and washers and clutch oil and everything or it could of been cheapper but its in that vicinity.

[Lewis_GasGas]

by the way that rubbers a bugger to get back in ive just left it on mine ...

[rhaines]

Wind the screw out on the master cylinder to its original position so the valve is open and remove the cover from the master cylinder. Buy some mineral oil from gasgas uk or your local dealer along with a large syringe and some tubing. Fill the syringe with oil and put the tubing onto the bleed nipple on top of the clutch casing. loosen the nipple slightly to allow fluid move ment then squeeze the oil backwards up the clutch line under pressure while holding the tube onto the nipple.
Be carefull as the oil will squirt out of the master cylinder with quite a lot of force so keep your eyes out of the way. reduce the pressure slightly and keep squirting until the master cylinder resovoir is about 3/4 full(covers the perspex window) then while still applying pressure to the syringe tighten the bleed nipple to ensure no air gets in.replace the cover on the master cylinder and adjust the clutch to suit and voila, its done....

[uhoh7]

rhaines, on Jul 3 2006, 03:45 PM, said:

Wind the screw out on the master cylinder to its original position so the valve is open and remove the cover from the master cylinder. Buy some mineral oil from gasgas uk or your local dealer along with a large syringe and some tubing. Fill the syringe with oil and put the tubing onto the bleed nipple on top of the clutch casing. loosen the nipple slightly to allow fluid move ment then squeeze the oil backwards up the clutch line under pressure while holding the tube onto the nipple.
Be carefull as the oil will squirt out of the master cylinder with quite a lot of force so keep your eyes out of the way. reduce the pressure slightly and keep squirting until the master cylinder resovoir is about 3/4 full(covers the perspex window) then while still applying pressure to the syringe tighten the bleed nipple to ensure no air gets in.replace the cover on the master cylinder and adjust the clutch to suit and voila, its done....

thanks for taking the time to help me: got my oil and syringe and will attempt bleeding by this method.

and thanks lewis for the info about the boot, which has been driving me crazy.

as an aside I explored the range of a 300 pro w/ stock 2.9 litre tank last nite, hehe.

here is a shot of Warm Springs Ridge, about 6 miles from Sun Valley. The high bits are close to 9k. A spectacular single track runs the length of the ridge, with a number of very technical access trails from the canyons below.

We still have some logs, however. I bought a 130 dollar chainsaw and my buddy (younger) carried it in a backback on his well traveled 02 yzf250. I had the stock GG lights and a 2hr ni-mh powered HID hemut light for Jon in my camelback. We left the trailhead at 7pm. We cut our way to the top, as weather closed in, up the deep canyon of Rooks Creek to the eastern creast of the ridge, far right in pic. We traversed west in high winds and light rain, with the cloud level just over our heads.

(this was tonite, same area, nice weather)


our normal lunch stop


We cut across (just a few logs) along the tip till we made the Castle Creek desent,



It was darkening fast as we dropped in. It would be all downhill, except for a 1000ft climb to one last saddle and the final drop down Placer creek. Normally I shut off the motor and coast dowbhill to conserve fuel, but it was too dark.

The last climb was about 2 miles, steep tight high alpine single track. Halfway to the top I had to go to my reserve. I was relieved to make the last series of switchbacks and make the saddle. I hoped I was home free, but half way down the motor stopped completely out of fuel. It was so dark you could not take a step. Jon followed me down as I coasted to the two track at the placer trailhead. But his light time was limited, so aways down the 2-track I sent him for the truck while he could still see himself. I huddled under a tree as my copious sweat cooled. 35 min later the flaming lights of out FJ cruiser apeared. I was back home by 2 am and our trail was clear.

Edited by uhoh7, 04 July 2006 - 05:55 PM.