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taff_d

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Posts posted by taff_d
 
 
  1. Probably just the seals or a loose connection if you have lost the fluid, never had to do one but i can't imagine it been rocket science to do it.

     

  2. On 7/1/2019 at 7:31 PM, anachronism said:

    Anyone had a chance to figure out if the smaller spline on the 18 & up RRs is the same as any other existing spline? Not seeing anything after market except "DOES NOT fit 18 & up RRs". Would like to try an 11 front/bigger rear for different ratios & longer chain/sprocket life.

    This is what you want

    This was supplied to me by me local TRS dealer so I presume it's correct not fitted it yet ?

     

    image1.jpeg

  3. Just tried 10/42 at the weekend and I liked it, but it was on an old stretched chain can't fit that gearing on a new chain you have to end up using 1/2 links and I don't like doing that. So I'm settling on 10/41, slow action throttle, LC head insert and Carbon Tech reeds ?

     

  4. Bou is the problem he's just a freak of nature so much better than anyone else, organisers put sections on to take marks off him and it makes it too hard for 95% on the field. Ease the sections off  he's going to win anyway and let the others have some fun, hopefully Bou will get bored and retire. I for one find all the trick circus riding very boring.

     

    • Like 1
  5. On 5/19/2019 at 9:32 PM, Whiskyshooter said:

    Does anyone know the reasoning why the raga comes with the steel tech forks over the aluminum. 

    They reckon the gold steel stantions have a better action than the alloy ones, think they changed to them on the 18 model. RR AND the Golds use them.

  6. Anyone know the air gap measurements for the Gold/Steel fork legs ? I looked at the fork service pdf files on the Tech Fork website but they only give the air gap for the alloy fork legs.

     

  7. 2 hours ago, bluey said:

    I rode a 300 rr and thought that was a bit too quick for me.  I ended up with a 250 gold as that was the only 250 available in NZ.  It's quick too!  I'm comparing to an 05 GG pro though not a standard TRS One so can't comment on that comparison.

    I just cleaned the air filter for the first time and struggled with re fitting too (and I thought the GG was tricky).  Some recommend sliding it down into place but that seems like it might risk dis lodging the foam from the cage and it is impossible to see if it is all sitting correctly.

     

     

     

    Bluey you are removing the black splash guard from the top of the opening before you change the filter ? You should just be able to slide the old filter out and the new in with no hassle at all.

     

  8. 16 minutes ago, sirdabalot said:

    And the fan circuit wiring was defective. 

    You talk an absolute load if bollocks ? out of interest how many TRS’s have you owned and had trouble with or are you basing all your ***** on gossip ?

  9. 19 minutes ago, 2stroke4stroke said:

    I was mightily impresssed when the first TRS appeared with a rear mudguard that could be tied in knots. That alone was a strong selling point but now they appear to have the same rubbish as everything else.

    Don't think the mudguards have changed same old bendy affairs 

     

  10. 1 hour ago, sirdabalot said:

    And the water pump impeller detached from its brass insert....

    Not on my bike it never, seen it happen on one bike and on other applications through my work, always the danger when using dissimilar materials same impeller used on many other makes of bikes.

     

     

     

  11. I had a 2017 250 RR and now have the 250 Gold, the Gold is definitely sharper I've had to fit a slow action throttle, the 17 RR had the water pump seal seal go after about 9 mths buts it's a 30 min job to fit a new one. The Gold kicks over better with the new starter gearing, I find the Gold is harder to find neutral than the RR but both gearbox's work fine as do the clutch's but you need to use the correct thin oil.

    Hope this helps, if you get one you won't be disappointed in my opinion best bike on the market, easy to ride and very easy to maintain with superb build quality. 

    • Like 2
  12. I'm an easy clubman rider and have had a 2017 250 RR and now have a 250 Gold, the only thing I have done to calm the bike is fit a slow throttle. If you can afford one get the RR model the extra cash is worth it for the rear shock and carb alone. The bikes are well made and very well designed and very easy to work on, the only trouble I have had is a water pump seal went on the 2017 RR but this is a 30 min fix which I did myself, the later models have had a water pump upgrade so I reckon they will be well sorted now, also got a lump of **** in my pilot jet which caused me to retire from a trail as I could not shift it at the trial, I have since fitted a fuel filter so no issue's any more. I have loads of mates with TRS's and not one has had a major problem and they ride easy to expert. In the very early days there was a petrol tank issue but that has well and truly been put to bed. Just remembered the clutches are great but don't use fancy oil, light gear oil is all you need I use ELF HTX740 now and change it every 3 or 4 rides.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
  13. TRS recommend only 50cc to 5lts and definitely no more than 60cc 

     

    2017 TRS One RR

     

    Keihin PWK28 carburetor (all engine sizes)

     

    Gasoline - Minimum octane USA – 95 (Ethanol content must be 0%) we recommend race gas, no ethanol

     

    Premix ratio – 100:1 (absolutely no richer than 80:1)

    Float height – 19mm

    Main jet – 125

    Needle – JJH (3rd clip position)

    Slide size – 3.5

    Pilot (slow) jet – 45

    Choke (starter) jet – 62

    Air screw standard position (factory setting) – 1.5 turns out

  14. On 20/09/2018 at 8:41 PM, dwb5151 said:

    The main issue i have had with TRS is how tight the bolts are on them. The air box does get a lot of mud in it i noticed this especially on my 2016 and the pilot jet in the carb would block a lot. On the 2018 they haven't improved this. You need to make sure you have a really good air filter oil and you grease the outer ring of it. You nearly need to clean the air filter every ride especially in the wet you will even need to take the airbox off and clean it out. From what i gather people grease the seal around the lid and and put tape over it. It helps a bit but the majority of the mud comes in through the rectangular breather in the airbox. I'm still waiting under warranty for my new trs to get bigger orings, as they cut the groves on the cylinder head to deep, so it is leaking coolant which i have to top up after every ride. The chain tension is terrible my bike hasn't even done a couple of weeks worth of riding and its as shaky as anything. 

    My 2017 RR was bad for water and muck in the airbox but I found it was not sealed correctly from the factory there was a hole for the crap to get through at the rear mudguard. I removed the airbox split it and resealed it and it never an issue after that always had a had a very clean and dry box after a trial and washing ?

    • Like 2
  15. Just been reading up on ATF and found this on a transmission manufacturers website.

    Quote

    Gear oil basics:
    • Gear oil works to lubricate and prevent corrosion in a manual transmission.
    • Because manual transmissions experience high friction during gear changes and clutch press-and-release, gear oil has additives of sulfur-bearing anti-wear compounds. This gives gear oil a distinctive, strong smell.
    • Gear oil is also thicker than ATF because it serves mainly to lubricate the gearbox, transfer cases, and differentials.

    Incorrectly using ATF in a manual transmission or gear oil in an automatic transmission can severely increase the wear and tear. ATF does not have the thick lubrication qualities needed in a manual gearbox, and gear oil does not contain all the additives needed to smoothly run an automatic transmission.

    Like I said earlier my dealer hates the stuff and said he's seen soon horrible sights when stripping engines that use ATF, I'll stick to the Light gear oil.

 
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