My dealer hates ATF and refuses to use it so that's good enough reason for me not to use the stuff. I use Rock Oil light gear oil now as recommended by TRS UK seems fine.
Since getting the new bike I've been using Putoline GP10 but it has been hard to find neutral till the bike was really warm, today i tried Rock oil light gear oil for the first time and from cold it had a really smooth gear change got slightly notchy as it got really warm, so light oil seems to be the way forward. I used Elf HTX 740 in my old TRS and it worked very well but I got sick of paying £26 a litre when I change the oil every 3-4 rides.
That's how I was told to do it, if you can't get the required rider sag within 10mm of preload you need a different spring, if you wind too much preload on you can become spring bound.
Added metal to my No1 X Blox but was still a bit slow but a lot better than a slow action, managed to source a No 2 X Blox and it's just what I was looking for ?
Is there such a thing on the market as a intermediate throttle tube ? The new bike came with a fast action which I liked in most sections today but in a couple it was a bit quick and got away from me. I have tried my slow acton Xblox on it and did not like it as much as the fast.
I have used bendy Apico levers for the last 4 years, fantastic never bust a lever but I've always struggled with stalling but put it down to an overactive clutch finger !! My mate convinced me to try the std levers again as he reckoned the bendy lever setup gave a s**te lever movement, done 3 trials now and only 1 stall so no more bendy levers for me.
There will be a cheap set of levers on ebay shortly ?
I have a TLM 220 and I'm needing new headstock bearings, the std OEM bearings are seperate top and bottom races using 1/4 ball bearings and according to the part finches they are the same as the TLR 250, looking on ebay there seems to be taper bearing conversions available for the TLR 200 & 250 can these be fitted without modifications anyone got any part numbers or dimensions for the bearings ?
Finally got to have a look at the brake, the drum has definitely been sleeved with cast iron and measures the correct 125mm. Measuring over the shoes it reads 123mm (this is with new shoes fitted) is 1mm aside a bit excessive for clearance ? The brake arm spindle is very slack in the brake plate this will need machining and sleeving and the cam profile is worn so I'll have to do a repair on that as well.
Thanks for all the replies, not had a look at it yet but when my bits arrive from inmotion i'll drag it on to the bench and do some fettling and investigations.
Having trouble with my front brake I just can't get it to work, it has new shoes and a new cable. It looks like the the hub has already been sleeved. What I'm after is the diameter of the standard brake drum so I can check for wear, does anyone know it ??
How about fitting higher bars? I think Jitsie make some
I have fitted higher bars but did not get ones that are high enough ?, another set of bars will be £80 so instead of wasting more money I'm going to lift the clamps, I've ordered 10mm alloy spacers off Ebay for £3.50 and i'm going to get a longer stud (don't think they are bolts) to fasten back on to the top yoke. The bars I fitted are 16.5mm higher and the 10mm I'm going to fit will give me a good inch higher in old money hopefully that will make a difference, I had 6" bars and lowered pegs on the 4rt and that felt good, foolishly I sold the 4rt with the high bars on.
Looking at lifting the bars a touch, had a look at the clamps today and I don't think there is a lot of thread in the bottom clamp where the top clamp bolts on so don't fancy fitting the type of riser that fit in the clamps to add height as that will put more leverage and pressure on the bolt holes and could cause a fracture.
Has anyone fitted spacers between the bottom clamp and top yoke on top of the 20mm spigot ? If anyone has does it work ok or any issues ?
And significantly more expensive... perhaps a change of the offending electrical components with the later parts to a 1 previous polishers machine.According to a lot of discussions on here the 300 is smooth and tractable on certain map settings.
You obviously have not seen me ride, 300 and me should not be mentioned in the same sentence it would be utter carnage ?
Back on topic, I've just got back from a very enjoyable test ride on a Vertigo Ice Combat 250 ? thanks to Tom at Cloburn Trial and Enduro.
The bike fueled very well and felt very light after been on a 4t for the last 2 years, even on the slow map it was a bit fast for me but a slow action throttle will help with that. The only bad point is the £6995 price absolutely no discounts.
Hopefully get a go on a TRS 250rr Sunday then it could be decision time ☺️
Efi at the low revs which us clubman ride is the difficulty which has not been completely solved, hence why trs and gg and beta sherco all persist with carbs?
The fueling at low rev on my Ossa was spot on ! Had starting issues but that was the spark rather than the fuel and it had the weakest gearbox known to man ?
Transmission oil change
in TRS
Posted
My dealer hates ATF and refuses to use it so that's good enough reason for me not to use the stuff. I use Rock Oil light gear oil now as recommended by TRS UK seems fine.