lpd

Ok I went out for a ride today. After about 3 hours of riding my 2000 200TXT starting making a knocking noise/rattling in the engine. Not sure where as it was hard to tell. It was intermittent between a rattle to a hard sounding knock? I came home washed the bike and changed my oil and it was milky white ie: water? I changed it and fired up the bike still a knock. I check the oil again and its milky white? Any ideas of where to look??? Looks like a big job?

Ok, so I rebuilt the rear suspension on my 2000 TXT200. Rear shock had a blown seal and I replaced all of the bearings in the linkage. Where do I start for static sag...1/2 inch and rider sag...2 inches? The knob for adjustment at the bottom is this for rebound? Lastly what would be a good starting/factory setup for it? I checked the static sag using a stand and measured the distance of rear sag and then with the weight of the bike and I have 2 inches of sag. I think this is ok. I'm 160lbs with gear. Thanks Peter

I noticed that I had no compression on my rear shock so I decided to check and discovered the shock was shot. I purchased a new one and the fellow I purchased it from told me that it was factory preset and didn't need any adjustment. He told me to install it and leave it as is. Does this seem right?

One last thing. I checked manuals for the front suspension and the Marzochi 40mm has the sleeve I'm speaking of. My bike is a 2001 model, but the forks appear to be the model in the link I posted here. The part I'm speaking of is #4 Forks

Sorry, I meant to lengthen the forks by dropping them down in the fork clamps. The fellow who worked on my bike indicated that he thought the rear suspension on my bike had stiff suspension. I'm going to measure the sag tonight for starters and then go from there. Any idea how to adjust the rear shock? I don't want to just adjust without an idea of what I'm doing. Also noticed one other weird thing. I flushed the fluid in my forks and ontop of the spring sits a nut then a grey spacer about 4" in height. Because it looked so clean and not hand cut I assumed that it was stock but now I'm not so sure. Same width as pvc but it is grey. Then the adjuster ontop of that. I know the fellow who owned the bike before me was heavier, but that seems like alot of preload. With the fork extended and the spacer on the spacer sits about 1/2 inch above the fork tube? I can post some pics to explain further. Should this be removed? I'm 150lbs wet so I'm wondering if it has too much preload?

The rear seems to move freely although I'm going over it tonight to see if maybe he tightened it down a little too much. Also not sure about the rear sag. If he adjusted it I'm sure he would have said something but maybe not. I can't ask him until Tuesday as he's closed Mondays. I just lowered the forks in the front clamps for now. Rides a little smoother but not like it did before the work was done.

Ok so I sorted out the noise and power loss in the bike. Seems I had a worn main bearing and leaky gasket. Carb was cleaned and the bike runs tip top. I also had a shock bushing replaced. Here's my new dilemma. After the shock bushing was replaced it feels like the bike rides tilted forward? I went out for a ride afterwards and it seemed as if I was plowing into obstacles and had a hard time lifting the front end. Also on down hills it was sketchy to say the least. Felt like I was going to twist out and crash everytime I hit a root/rock ect. Also on flat surfaces if I hit a root ect. the front end would skate or deflect off of it. I thought I could lower my forks, but will this suffice? Prior to the work on the bike the suspension was perfect. Only the shock mount bushing was replaced making me wonder if it was worn the rear sagged a little. Any ideas appreciated.

Ok so I go out this morning and fire up the bike and when the clutch is engaged it had alot of drag. I adjust the plunger to reduce the drag and rode the bike for about 20 minutes, clutch seemed better, but now my tick over was ws too high (I had to turn it down almost a full turn)???? I'm wondering if I have a warped clutch plate thats problematic after overheating? Not sure about the tickover though?

I have a 2000 200TXT. Went out for a ride today and all was good. About half way through the day I noticed that my clutch friction point was further out on the lever and that my engine revs seemed way too high (the bike was revving out rather than a smooth throttle response). Any ideas to this dilemma?

How my bike is set up is that the spring fits overtop a rod that runs up the center of the spring. The rod is threaded at the top. A bolt with a plastic washer threads on the rod to hold the spring in place. A stock preload spacer sits ontop of the nut/plastic washer and then the adjuster cap on top which threads into the fork leg. I noticed that the amount of tension I put on the nut/washer onto the spring sharply affects how the forks ride. If I put over 1 inch of sag the bike feels sloppy in hte front end and I lose rear hookup. If I have the bolt cinched down on the spring a little more the rear tire hooks up easily especially on steep climbs where I have to put my weight more forward to avoid a flip. On the gasgas suspension setup I misread the article and thought 2/3's sag on the front is recommended. I read it again and noticed that it recommends 1/6 sag which for my bike would be an inch. My rear suspension is fine although I need to rebuild and grease my linkage as there is a little play in one of the bushings. This should cleans up the suspension too.

I have a TXT 200 and have been experimenting with the front end suspension. Here's what I have found. To get 2 inches of sag on the front end, I have to loosen the bolts above the springs and I get almost 1/2" of static sag and 2 inches of total sag with rider ie: me. I am light 155 lbs. When I tighten the bolts down a few threads, I have no static sag, but only an inch of total sag. With the two inches of sag the bike appears to ride clunky in the front, and if I lean my weight forward on steeper climbs I lose back wheel traction. If I set it up with the 1" of sag when I lean forward I have better rear traction and the front feels less sloppy. I'm under the assumption that the bike should ride with 2" of sag for optimum results. Not sure how to achieve this without the static sag? Any thoughts? Thanks Peter

On my Gasgas 200TXT I had the fuel screw 3 1/2 turns out and ticker set to idle nice. Today I was experimenting with the fuel screw and tried it at 2 turns out and adjusted the ticker to the same idle. Difference is that the bike has much lower torque and seems chunkier on the throttle. Will this adjustment harm anything on my bike or create problems? At 3.5 turns it seemed to have less low end torque.

Thanks, I went out for a ride today and noticed that the front is plowing as I ride (took a nice spill over the bars on a sharp downhill turn). I'm going to raise them maybe a 1/4 inch and see how much of a difference it makes.

Thanks for the info. I turned the mixture to 3.5 or just shy and it was half a turn higher. Made a big difference. Its running less ragged and feels like it has more torque on the throttle.

I decided it was time to change the fork fluid on the bike. Drained the forks and to my surprise 250cc's in the damping and 325cc's in the rebound There are no visible leaks in the seals ect. not sure about the difference. Filled up both forks to factory specs (I use 5w but I'm a light rider 150lbs) and I noticed that the bike sags in the front end under its own weight about 3/4 of an inch. With me on the bike it sage a little over 2 inchs. Should the front sag under the weight of the bike or should I put a little more preload on the springs? Thanks in advance.... the new gasser crasher

My bike has almost no drag. It used to but I suspect my clutch is a little worn. No matter how I adjust the lever the drag is minimal. I used to have my friction point quite close to the bar. It is now further from the bar and it seems that no matter how I adjust the lever it changes very little. Thanks for the info. I checked my fuel screw and it was 4 turn out for starters. I'll clean the carb and let you know how it turns out. Just redid the fork fluid today with a lighter weight 5W for the winter.

I own a 2000 200TXT and am wondering how the two screw on the carb are to be adjusted. The bike seems to idle high. First screw (on the left side) is out 3 1/2 turns, the second I'm not sure. Any help is appreciated.

I am wondering how much sag is recommended for the front forks on a TXT200? If I understand right sag should be set at about 1/3 of travel. I'm not sure what the total travel on my bike is. Anyone know these measurements?

Well I checked the chain and it appears to be worn as when I pull on it @ 3:00 on the sprocket I get a fair amount of play. When I went to my Gasgas supplier he recommended changing the sprocket as well indicating that both the chain and sprocket wear at approx. the same rate. My sprocket doesn't look severly worn, but does have a couple teeth that are worn more than others. I purchased a new sprocket anyways (price was affordable), but is my sup0plier pulling my leg?

So I'm out on a ride on the weekend. I'm with a friend and we pack extra gas so that we can explore this mountain range locally. Mostly Enduro trails but some really nice hill climbs. Almost at the end of the day my chain pops off the sprocket and tangles up on the smaller front sprocket. Now I pack some tools for repairs, but this one is so jammed it is not repairable in the bush and I end up pushing for about three miles.... I checked my chain tension before leaving and even after fixing the chain, and it has about the width of a thumb between the tensioner and swing arm. Any ideas what else I can check to prevent the walk of shame

I tried to compensate the extra grip by leaning more forward and getting my weight more on the front end of the bike, but then the rear tire slips. I guess I'll have to experiment with body position and throttle control. The tire I put on my bike is a Mitas (it was given to me for free) and I noticed that it is a little stiffer than the Mich. Perhaps I have too much air in it. I'm a ligher rider 150lbs, and usually run the rear at 3.5 psi.

I recently put a new rear tire on my Gasgas TXT200. First thing i noticed was that the front end seemed to be plowing up and down obstacles? Also noticed that the sweet spot (balance vs. rear tire traction) on uphill climbs seems further back on the bike and the front wants to lift up quicker. The old tire's tread was maybe 1/4 inch of tread...ok well used!!! The new one is well brand spanking new. I am wondering if I should drop the forks up front to stop the plowlike feel to the ride? I didn't touch anything else on the bike except re and re and new rear tire and I had a really good balance and feel to the bike, now it seems out of balance? Any ideas?

Thanks for the info!!!

I'm sure this has been covered here and I did a search through the archives, but couldn't find any definative info. Should the front forks sag at all with just the weight of the bike no rider on the bike? My front forks sag 1/4 of an inch from the weight of the bike. If I want to remedy this how should I do so?

I ride a 2000 TXT200. I'm 150lbs and this bike takes me up everything I have the skill to ride!!! I was going to upgrade on power myself and have been riding it for 1 season. I asked a couple of the old timer riders for an opinion and they suggested I get good on the 200 before I upgrade. I was told that riding a 200 will force me to get better at skills and throttle control and with a more powerful bike I'll rely on the power...just a thought. I rode my friends 310? (can't remember if it is 310 or 320), but on areas I had to crank the throttle his bike putted up the hill climbs