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keychange

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Posts posted by keychange
 
 
  1. It isn't hard to get on or off.  But it controls the rebound of the gear lever ie: when you push down for first the lever moves back up to the middle position etc.  I can't see how you can do a 180degree turn if the spring is operating correctly.  I have a 247 and the selector is different but the spring has the same function.

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  2. There is a clearance but I can't look up at the moment.  Tighten the adjuster just tight then back off half a turn.  Watch the comp lever as you activate the kick start to make sure it moves.  If you have it too tight you will hear a phhhttt exhaust leak sound.  If too loose the engine is quite hard to push past TDC (surprisingly so for a small engine).   So if it is still hard to kick over, tighten adjuster 1/4 turn and try again...ad lib, fade and repeat.

    • Haha 1
  3. Wire it as per my previous post or run the red wire from condensor to coil on same terminal as black wire.  The insulating washer are to isolate the side of the points going to the coil from the frame....you really need to learn to use google.

     

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  4. Hi - I have had some difficulty dating my TLR, I believe it is quite an early model, grey import from Japan to Oz.  Engine MD09E 1005839.

    I decided to replace timing chain and guides ....no problems with the chain but the guides (Chinese off ebay) I have appear to be too short.  They have correct numbers ie: Replaces OEM Part Number: 14500-427-000 (Tensionser), 14550-427-000 (Guide)

    But front guide only just sits in position and rear there is no way I can install top bolt .....at least 5mm short.  Do these stretch.  Pics below show old guides v new guides.  Base and head gasket are correct thickness.  Do you think they are just too short or am I missing something?

     

     

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  5. I think retarding the timing will fix your problem ...if you find it is running hot that suggests you have gone too far.  Also can't stress enough that you must set plug gap ....out of the box is too big and the spark will fail.

  6. Tap it into the low tension (black) lead going to the coil.  Th button earths to frame killing the power going to the coil.  I don’t think your red lead should go to condensor as the condenser also is part of the coil circuit ie:black wire.  Red lead is/was probably lighting circuit

  7. My Cota hated ATF, more false neutrals than gears and jumping out constantly.   I run the recommended gear oil which I think is 80W 90 and usually just the occasional jump between first and second.

    IMO ATF is too thin and may explain the leaky seal

  8. 1 hour ago, ChrisCole said:

    Hi Andrew that is really kind, I have tried sending you a message with my email address but I am not sure it is getting through

    It moght help that I have emptied my in box = try again

 
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