Flywheel side seal leaking can cause this. I think you can change the seal without splitting the cases. Remove flywheel and pull out the seal with a small hook. I have also seen a self-taping screw into the seal used to get a grip on it. Just be careful not to damage the shaft.
New seal will tap in.
Other potential sources of lean mixture are leak in inlet manifold and blocked pilot jet.
Has it always started badly or was it OK once?
Once you have excluded all other issues you could try changes in the carb to richen the mixture to see if this helps.
PS does it hot start better if you use a bit of choke. If yes then issue is in the mixture.
Stu109,
I think you might have something there, used to start ok. I thought that it might be me as my kick ain’t what it used to be. Plug is quite black which might suggest it’s running rich. Will replace the seal, cheap easy fix. Will have the carb off as well, thanks for the advice
Thanks for that, replaced the mains and seals 3 to 4 years ago and to be honest its most probably done less than a 100 hours in that time, I think that it might be worth changing the seals, my memory is failing me at the moment. Can the seals be replaced without splitting the crankcases?
my 2004 270, starts 1st, 2nd kick when cold but it’s a pig when it’s hot. Had the stator rewound. Someone suggested running a hotter plug, any help greatly appreciated
stick em in the dishwasher first, get them really clean, dont want to stink the oven out. oops misses is looking over me shoulder, gonna get frisked every time i come in from the workshop. ha ha. if you get stuck, i have one out of a m92 325 or is that too early?
i think you are correct, i will have to remove it before it goes for another MOT, mind you, bit academic at the moment as i think the lighting coil has given up the ghost. :-(
Nothing wrong with "good old hand signals" But i am guessing that at least 50% of the car driving public would not know the slowing down hand signal, can see it now, hmmmmmm why is that geezer trying to fly with 1 arm flapping.
Tried the fix on my 04 270, made a little difference, but it only sticks when it been standing for a couple of weeks. nearly ended up in the fish pond when it first did it. now dont take any chances, stick the front wheel against a tree when starting.
I am in the process of road registering my 198 and want to wire in the stop light. i connected to the red wire from the stator, but when i press the brake the stop light comes on but the engine cuts out. i am guessing that the yellow or red wires are from the lighting coil. not getting any voltage from the yellow. My haynes manual only hints at the lighting circuit, can any one point me in the right direction.
I thought it had a pursang look about the swing arm, foot pegs are my addition, as are the shocks which are a little longer than standard. no number on the head stock. it has a great engine only had an hours running since a top end rebuild some 20 odd years ago. think i will put it together, "as is" have got all the bits, and give it a go. have seen a tank like this on a bike advertised on the inmotion site a couple of years ago. its very well made, dont think it has ever seen a tree stump or knee.
have had this in the shed for 20 odd years. i know that it is a M92 engine, and i think that it is a model 159 frame, the swing arm has been beefed up/modified. i have been told that the tank is a commerford aftermarket tank. Can anyone confirm my thoughts?
Dave at bultaco uk gave me a good tip about bully clutches. and it might be worth giving it a go before a strip down. drain as much of the old oil as you can. then put some neat petrol in and gently ride it around for 5-10 mins, then drain the petrol and refill with a light gear oil, ride around for a little longer, drain and refill with fresh oil. cannot remember how much petrol you would use, give him a call 01784 440033, i am sure he will help you out.
might be worth sealing the inside of the tank to prevent the common problem of the fuel leaching out and bubbling the paint. there is one called tank creme that works on rusty steel tanks, might be ok for plastic tanks.
Rods always have a bit of rocking and side to side play, should have no up-down and rotate smoothly.
Venting the cover by removal or a 3mm drain hole is your option. Weight is optional and slows the revs.
Sounds as though you need to get the rumbling loose mains an seals out and you will be OK, Very typical unless you find worse!
Copemech,
Thanks for the reply, new parts ordered, after speaking to Alan at feetup. have come to the conclusion that the big end has gone. sort of knew that really, never heard mains knock like that before. fell on the floor at the price of a new crank, not alot difference between that and a con rod kit with the fitting. but have to bite the bullet, but at least i know it will last for a while, if all but a bit painful. anything to watch out for in the reassembly process?
Rev 3 270 poor starting
in Beta
Posted
Thanks gents,
Will let you know how I get on, much appreciated.
cheers
Tom