cmc84

Success! Couldn't get Bernie's book anywhere, but got a copy of "Clean to the Finish" signed by the man himself for £15!

Wow, thanks guys, that's certainly given me a bit to think about. I like the idea about thinking in terms of pressure. The best tip I've had so far has been to think of where the back wheel will go as you go round the section, which has worked wonders, so hopefully being mindful of staying up right, and applying pressure will help too. Anyone know where I can find a copy of Bernie's book? I was looking for it last night, but no luck?

Entered my third ever trial today, which was a success in that its the first I've finished. My score was nothing to write home about, but I've noticed I was losing marks consistently on the same 2 things: 1 - Going down steep slopes - I had absolutely no control, and accelerated downand out of the section on a few occasions. I think using the back brake was making matters worse. 2 - Muddy hillclimbs - Just couldn't find traction despite having two new tyres. I tried to roll the revs on and build or carry momentum wherever possible, but hillclimbs that I could manage in practice no problem seemed to be much much harder within a the context of a section. Any tips?

I could never get it, but since changing the oil its no probs. Im introgued by the S3 flywheel - where can I get one? I got the 280 as a bargain, and it is definately a bit fierce - by the last lap I'm hanging off the back like a ribbon (all 16 stone...)

Cool, plenty ideas there. It will be worth a fortune by the time I get it finished!

Copemech, I didn't think it would be that tough? The correct timing must be in the region of plus or minus a few dergrees rotation from where it has been scribed on the casing, and the points gap needs set 2-3mm (approx) before TDC. admittedly ive never done it, but is it that difficult?

I'm wondering if the case is a bit buckled. it used to be a drip, but since I've been testing the bike it's really coming out in a hurry. What would you do - make a thicker gasket, or get the casing faced maybe?

In a bid to stop the vast quantity of oil escaping my clutch, I've bought a new but very old stock clutch cover gasket. I've got something in the back of my mind about soaking it in oil before fitting it, am I right?

How can I get my flywheel off without having to take the bike to the shop? I've got a 2 arm puller somewhere in the garage, would that do it? Gonna stick on a new condenser and points tomorrow, see if that gets her running a bit better...

Thanks guys. To the garage.......

Luckily my local shop is a former Bultaco dealer, so should be able to pick up points & condenser there. WHat about the slow pick-up, does that sound like a timing issue? Its a 199a 350 by the way Cheers, Chris

Great stuff guys, I'll get the condenser sorted out first, I'm sure I've saw posts on how to relocate it in the forum somewhere? Regarding the timing, I've just set it up with the back plate lined up on the timing marks of some previous owner, from some point in the last 30 odd years - what is the correct way to set it up? Also, if I can ask another, I feel as if the revs are a bit slow to pick up. I imagine it might be different than a modern bike in this respect, but I think its still a bit slow. Lofting the front wheel takes serious forward planning - do you think that could be relating to the timing, or is that just how they are? (Keep in mind the oldest bike I've ridden was a 2001!) Thanks for your help, without this forum, it would still be a box of bits!

Hi all, my bike has been running for a wee while now, and I'm amazed at how capable it is. Having great fun on it and it makes a nice change from the modern bike. However, the Bulto runs well for maybe half an hour, then will stall, and is a right pig to start. After getting it running, it runs for shorter and shorter periods before bogging/stalling. On inspection, there is plenty fuel in the bowl, and the plug is a little sooty, but not too bad. I'm starting to think hillclimbs and hopping logs make it prone to stalling. Not much to go on, but any ideas? Chris

Yeah, that looks the same as mine, by the time you take up the "slack" in the lever, its vertical. I was worried that there was something slipping/missing when I was moving the starter, but that seems reasonable that its the piston going from down-up. I just couldn't convince myself what was actually happening. I've made a few mods, but converting to 4 stroke was just a little beyond me. I'll try kicking her sitting down next time though, I'm spoiled with my "half a kick" Gas Gas!

Fitted my kickstart return spring today, and proceeded to start the bike. Fired up after a few kicks, but I kept hitting the footpeg with my heel despite trying a few locations for the kickstart lever. I've got it mounted so that it starts to turn the engine at 12 o'clock, but it seems to want to continue past the footpeg (at about 4 o'clock) down to almost vertically down. Is this normal? Are my feet just too big, or it it just my technique? Also, it seemed like when I was turning it over, I would get one good kick which was turning the engine, then one "quiet" kick - is it the case that I'm kicking it through the expansion part of the stroke every other kick?

I fitted mine today. Pushed the spring onto the spindle with the hole at 12 o'clock, then held the straight end of the spring in a pair of needle-nosed vise-grips, and pulled it round one whole turn clockwise. I levered the first winding of the spring upwards(the one with the straight end) with a screwdriver placed under the first winding, over the top of the remainder of the spring and resting on the engine case to lift it up high enough to slide in the hole, and with a third hand, guided it in with some needle nosed pliers. Done in 5 minutes! I tried previously by cutting a few mm off of the end of the spring, but I see now that it the "extra" length is there to stop the spring unwinding along the length of the shaft when you press the kickstart, and also served to fatigue the metal which ended in it pinging away over the horizon....

Hope that worked.... She's running, but needs the rear brake connected, a seat, air filter/box, and chain fitted. Back wheel really needs re-spoked, but that can wait until next month. The exhaust is more or less touching the back wheel however, so will have to put a spacer between it and the frame to give me some clearance. Threads on the rear wheel spindle and swing arm spindle don't match the nuts I've got. was hoping to have a drive round the yard at the weekend, but looks like it'll have to wait.

Thanks guys, I have a 1978/79? bike - a 199a. I have the slotted spacer which goes into the fork leg, but not the top hat which goes inside the brake plate, or the straight spacer for the left hand side. Makes sense, I thought it was a bit queer having the "empty" drum butt up against the fork leg. Wanted a rolling chassis this week, but looks like I'l have to settle for a wheelbarrow!

Hi all, I've got a big push on to get the bike finished before my holidays, want to get it moving and stopping under its own power before I spend much more on it. Tried to get the front wheel mounted tonight, and noticed that with the drum snug against one fork leg, there must be a spacer of some sort at the other side? I have worked out which spindle of the 4 I have is the correct item, but I assume I am missing a "top-hat" spacer that goes from the face of the bearing to the fork leg on the side without the brake drum? Does that sound right? I appreciate a picture would help, but I never think of taking one to the garage until its too late...

Great stuff guys, just what I was looking for - I'm not a fan of the all blue look of the later bikes either, but I am a sucker for "boxes of bits"

Anyone got pics of a 199a or similar in non-standard colours, or modified? Just looking for some inspiration....

Yeah, I saw that Bo, it's a pet hate of mine. I'm in the west coast of scotland, where we speak the most unintelligible strain of scottish/english, but it's becoming riddled with this daft American/FRIENDS talk. Drives me up the wall! Anyway, back on topic - might have a go at making one. I've got two bits of steel angle in my vice, and a sheet of ally that wants folded and rivited....

Wow, P - nice sketch. I was under the impression that the way to do it was to place the hook end first, then wind the straight end around the shaft and poke it through the hole, but that was near as damn it impossible. Got my new spring yesterday so will try at the weekend... One more thing, just to get my head around this - when you push the kick start, are you winding, or unwinding the spring?

Aw well, that's like, another

As above, my airbox was in half a dozen bits, so got binned long ago. Thinking about just sticking a K&N style cone filter on, and extending the mudflap down far enough to keep the crud out/making up some kind of alu. shield. Anyone else done this, or could advise if it'll interfere with jetting? Thanks again Chris