Jump to content

photoboy

Members
  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.dh79.co.uk
Contact Information
 
   
Recent Profile Visitors
 
 

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

 
  1. like this one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-STROKE-RACE-CDI-IGNITION-JOG-Minarelli-1E40QMB-/180756451742?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a15ec919e#ht_4297wt_985 or would this one have the right connections...? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FANTIC-TRIAL-249-ORIGINAL-DUCATI-ELECTRONIC-HT-COIL-CDI-UNIT-/270836487633?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f0f1cd5d1#ht_2940wt_907
  2. Dadof2 I did consider the idea of running a £20 generic switchable cdi on my beta.... But aren't the pickup coils on these 2001 rev3s a little unusual? i seem to remember the guys at west country windings telling me that they were hard to test, suggesting they are different? Which might mean they give a pickup signal, that a generic cdi might not "see"? Also I assumed that the advance curve for a proper "trials" Cdi would be very flat to give steady torque at low rpm, and the switchable scooter ones the exact opposite, no torque, massive advance, screaming rpm, power poor at tickover... There must be a cheap steady two stroke cdi out there that would make a good substitute for the beta one... something very common and easy to find for peanuts second hand.... maybe the c90 one is perfect? Please suggest one and i will buy one off ebay and try it...
  3. JSP - Lampkins can't help as beta do not sell those CDIs any more, they only offer a kit with a revised stator/flywheel/cdi/coil for about 300+vat (not worth it on an old bike like mine) Samo - i will try the manufacture's, as they might be ale to help, who knows? Dafof2 - I was worried that it could be the trigger coil, but i took the bike back to west country windings and they tested the trigger coils and the source coil while i kicked over the bike and they said they were all fine and it must be a wiring problem... but i have had the wiring re done by martin wittering of torque racing, he is fantastic, and says he is 99% it is the CDI that is at fault, still i would like to test it anyway, as it looks like it is going to be a mare to find any replacement without paying though the nose... thanks for your help guys. I am still eager to find someone with a running 2001/2 250 so i can try my Cdi and find out if it is 100% the problem, I am happy to come anywhere around london, the bike is near welling garden city at the moment.
  4. I had the stator rewound by west country windings, so i hope that that is fine, I put it all together and i only get an occasional spark when i press and release the kill button. nobody seems to know why. Tested and replaced wiring, earths etc etc etc 10 times, so i might have just have a bad CDi, Only way to know is to try a good un' and see if she runs. ??? Tried everything else. I can collect anywhere 50 miles from london and will return plus several tins of beer in the same week. Would just buy a second had one, and keep it for a spare if the price was ok, but there are none about at the moment,and i need to get riding...
  5. I found the cause of my fault, it was the generator/ignition trigger: the stator that had broken loose (in the flywheel) and was rubbing itself away against the magnets inside the flywheel, when the motor ran, it got hot and it would cut out. Now the problem is where to find a new stator plate* as it is in poor condition and may not hold, I am probably getting the stator rewound too, the flywheel magnets may be bit weeker now, but that should not be a problem as the spark was great. Any screw that comes loose in the engine is going to end in tears... The bike is a 2001/2002 250 Rev 3 read more here: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/39610-stator-plate-disintegrate/ *no longer made new here are some pics:
  6. I was told it is a 2001, but the "bodgers" that sold me the bike might have been wrong, they did not hide anything when asked though... Are you identifying the bike from the frame/motor or are you talking about the plastics and the grafix; as i am sure these are not the originals?
  7. i took the thing apart and the stator plate is in bad condition and really could do with replacement, the stator poles are worn down on a sender and a coil and the same coil looks like it got hot! the inside of the flywheel is not good too but it was running, so i guess a new startor plate will fix it for now, here are some pics:
  8. was that a while ago, I did not find that one, they must have stopped it ... I will try to look again in the competed listings and see if i get lucky.
  9. I could buy a new plate, helicoil or retap the threads in the cases. Then re wind the coils myself... does anyone know the right gauge of wire and the number of turns?
  10. I have rewound a stator my self at home, it is not too bad and takes an evening in front of the telly. But as i need the stator plate too and I bet they are a fortune new, i will look around and see if i can pick a plate and stator together, second hand
  11. Discovered the source of my bad running on my Beta rev 3 250 2001.... The stator plate has disintegrated at the point where it screws on, it managed to work itself loose enough to contact the fly wheel magnets. This has caused some some of it to rub away! it was working though only for a few minutes until it got warm. Does anyone have any suggestions. looks like the flywheel might be Ok, but i need a stator back plate and almost without doubt a stator or a rewind...
  12. I removed the carb and cleaned everything, i inverted the carb while on the fuel and that ran no prob, with the tank cap off. so no obvious problem there. I took off the flywheel cover and undid the bolt, but with out a puller i could not release the flywheel to look at the stator, it was making a funny noise in there which i videoed rather than try to explain: http://youtu.be/-TOodCmU1Uk Could it be the coil? it did fall on that side... how can i test it?
  13. yes the cut out and run times were quite consistently between 2 and 4 mins, if it was stopped longer it would run a little longer, thats a clever point- that it might be something to do with an eletrical component cooling off and heating up and cutting out, but then how would a light drop on the left damage the stator?
  14. My 2001 Rev 3 250: Started ok ran for about 20min, i dropped it on the left hand side on a steep loose slope, it cut out, i restarted, then it will ran for 2 mins and cut out, then it could not be restarted for about 2 mins, then it starts fine runs for two mins, then it cuts out, leave it for 2 mins then it starts Ok, and so on and so on... I striped the carb and that is fine, i tested the spark and that seems to be the cause of the cut out, but what would make the spark stop for two mins, then come back - run ok for 2 mins then go away again etc etc?? I am stumped. Any suggestions where i should start to look for the problem?
  15. Bikes with Martin Wittering getting a full overhaul.

×
  • Create New...