photoboy

like this one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-STROKE-RACE-CDI-IGNITION-JOG-Minarelli-1E40QMB-/180756451742?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a15ec919e#ht_4297wt_985 or would this one have the right connections...? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FANTIC-TRIAL-249-ORIGINAL-DUCATI-ELECTRONIC-HT-COIL-CDI-UNIT-/270836487633?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f0f1cd5d1#ht_2940wt_907

Dadof2 I did consider the idea of running a £20 generic switchable cdi on my beta.... But aren't the pickup coils on these 2001 rev3s a little unusual? i seem to remember the guys at west country windings telling me that they were hard to test, suggesting they are different? Which might mean they give a pickup signal, that a generic cdi might not "see"? Also I assumed that the advance curve for a proper "trials" Cdi would be very flat to give steady torque at low rpm, and the switchable scooter ones the exact opposite, no torque, massive advance, screaming rpm, power poor at tickover... There must be a cheap steady two stroke cdi out there that would make a good substitute for the beta one... something very common and easy to find for peanuts second hand.... maybe the c90 one is perfect? Please suggest one and i will buy one off ebay and try it...

JSP - Lampkins can't help as beta do not sell those CDIs any more, they only offer a kit with a revised stator/flywheel/cdi/coil for about 300+vat (not worth it on an old bike like mine) Samo - i will try the manufacture's, as they might be ale to help, who knows? Dafof2 - I was worried that it could be the trigger coil, but i took the bike back to west country windings and they tested the trigger coils and the source coil while i kicked over the bike and they said they were all fine and it must be a wiring problem... but i have had the wiring re done by martin wittering of torque racing, he is fantastic, and says he is 99% it is the CDI that is at fault, still i would like to test it anyway, as it looks like it is going to be a mare to find any replacement without paying though the nose... thanks for your help guys. I am still eager to find someone with a running 2001/2 250 so i can try my Cdi and find out if it is 100% the problem, I am happy to come anywhere around london, the bike is near welling garden city at the moment.

I had the stator rewound by west country windings, so i hope that that is fine, I put it all together and i only get an occasional spark when i press and release the kill button. nobody seems to know why. Tested and replaced wiring, earths etc etc etc 10 times, so i might have just have a bad CDi, Only way to know is to try a good un' and see if she runs. ??? Tried everything else. I can collect anywhere 50 miles from london and will return plus several tins of beer in the same week. Would just buy a second had one, and keep it for a spare if the price was ok, but there are none about at the moment,and i need to get riding...

I found the cause of my fault, it was the generator/ignition trigger: the stator that had broken loose (in the flywheel) and was rubbing itself away against the magnets inside the flywheel, when the motor ran, it got hot and it would cut out. Now the problem is where to find a new stator plate* as it is in poor condition and may not hold, I am probably getting the stator rewound too, the flywheel magnets may be bit weeker now, but that should not be a problem as the spark was great. Any screw that comes loose in the engine is going to end in tears... The bike is a 2001/2002 250 Rev 3 read more here: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/39610-stator-plate-disintegrate/ *no longer made new here are some pics:

I was told it is a 2001, but the "bodgers" that sold me the bike might have been wrong, they did not hide anything when asked though... Are you identifying the bike from the frame/motor or are you talking about the plastics and the grafix; as i am sure these are not the originals?

i took the thing apart and the stator plate is in bad condition and really could do with replacement, the stator poles are worn down on a sender and a coil and the same coil looks like it got hot! the inside of the flywheel is not good too but it was running, so i guess a new startor plate will fix it for now, here are some pics:

was that a while ago, I did not find that one, they must have stopped it ... I will try to look again in the competed listings and see if i get lucky.

I could buy a new plate, helicoil or retap the threads in the cases. Then re wind the coils myself... does anyone know the right gauge of wire and the number of turns?

I have rewound a stator my self at home, it is not too bad and takes an evening in front of the telly. But as i need the stator plate too and I bet they are a fortune new, i will look around and see if i can pick a plate and stator together, second hand

Discovered the source of my bad running on my Beta rev 3 250 2001.... The stator plate has disintegrated at the point where it screws on, it managed to work itself loose enough to contact the fly wheel magnets. This has caused some some of it to rub away! it was working though only for a few minutes until it got warm. Does anyone have any suggestions. looks like the flywheel might be Ok, but i need a stator back plate and almost without doubt a stator or a rewind...

I removed the carb and cleaned everything, i inverted the carb while on the fuel and that ran no prob, with the tank cap off. so no obvious problem there. I took off the flywheel cover and undid the bolt, but with out a puller i could not release the flywheel to look at the stator, it was making a funny noise in there which i videoed rather than try to explain: http://youtu.be/-TOodCmU1Uk Could it be the coil? it did fall on that side... how can i test it?

yes the cut out and run times were quite consistently between 2 and 4 mins, if it was stopped longer it would run a little longer, thats a clever point- that it might be something to do with an eletrical component cooling off and heating up and cutting out, but then how would a light drop on the left damage the stator?

My 2001 Rev 3 250: Started ok ran for about 20min, i dropped it on the left hand side on a steep loose slope, it cut out, i restarted, then it will ran for 2 mins and cut out, then it could not be restarted for about 2 mins, then it starts fine runs for two mins, then it cuts out, leave it for 2 mins then it starts Ok, and so on and so on... I striped the carb and that is fine, i tested the spark and that seems to be the cause of the cut out, but what would make the spark stop for two mins, then come back - run ok for 2 mins then go away again etc etc?? I am stumped. Any suggestions where i should start to look for the problem?

I like to shot to both a raw and a large/smooth Jpeg. I rarely (ish) "need" the raw images, but when I do there is a lot of places you can go with a raw file that are shut tight in the jpeg. Most SLRs do this duel saving these days, even my compact can (I think). Even if you only ever need one once, cards are quite cheap these days thanks to HD video, it seems silly not to have the raws too, and you do not even need to keep them for more than a few weeks, or just keep the raws of the final selections, if you are short on HD space or tired of disc burning....

I was a professional photographer for quite a time, if anyone has any general or basic questions or needs tips about cameras or photography, I am happy to answer them here, I am getting so much out of this forum I feel i need to put something back in Here are the four answers that everybody asks me for: What is the best compact camera bar none?: Canon S95 (amazing results, not a lot of zoom about £250) What is the best value SLR camera?: Nikon D3100 (incredible camera for little money £450 with 18-55 VR zoom) What is the best Camera one would ever need?: Nikon D7000 £850 without a lens (if you need a "better" camera than this take the picture (and i bet you do not): things are going to get silly expensive very quickly) How do I take pictures like the ones in magazines? Assuming you have an interest, (pretty much the same thing as "an eye") You do not need money or fancy gear or amazing subjects: you just need to look carefully at pictures you like; then Practice, look at the results and Practice some more. The practical advice is: Take a good long look at the 5 best pictures you have ever taken, what do you like about them? Then go and take those pictures again (as much as you can without time travel) try and improve the background, subject, think about the composition, and try to take as many good variations as seem possible, study them slowly and choose the best one, the five images you end up with will probably be somewhat better this time, take a good fresh look at the new images after a week and go and do it again, by now you probably have the first five pictures of a professional portfolio)

Got a bike (rev3), and a Van but am brand new to this. From 6 years of green laning and some enduro practice, I know one important thing: Really good instruction and tips from someone who knows what they are doing, especially early on, can soon save pain and damage to your equipment... In the long run this is always worth it. Everyone is different and guidance from someone who knows what they are doing can quickly help you figure out what your natural weaknesses are*, what to practice on your own and what to bear in mind most when doing something unnatural (to me, like going slowly up slopes and over logs) This is a thinking mans sport from what i have seen, and I am approaching with my wits about me this time, as my body is robustly broken from the enduro learning curve and I do not feel like getting into Trials using my head as a battering ram again! What are my options for getting the best training and tips, for a beginner? the factors I have to bear in mind are, how far from London, how soon, costs and how do I get in contact? * (apart from the obvious ones of being too old, too unfit and too uncoordinated to ever be really any good)

Thanks trials 125 That sounds like good news to me, i am completely new to trials and i just bought a 250 beta rev 3.... "Personally, I would start off on a Beta 200/250. The Beta is such a lovely bike and would be great for someone that is just starting off. However, like Telecat said...all bike's have the good points and bad points. "

more towards the Mussolini part of Westminster...

Hi I just bought an well used (maybe too well used) 2002 Beta rev3, and a van to move it around. The idea being "try it and see" I am joining the berkhamstead MCC, and will ride whenever i can. I have plenty of mid week time. Please let me know if you are anywhere near W2, or practice at Nash Mills midweek and would not mind a skill-less tagger.

http://www.youtube.com/user/dh79couk#p/u/3/VE7DCdGS2rU Ok it started and ran for all of 30 seconds of starting misfire before fouling... not the greatest of beginnings.. I think I better take it to the brilliant Martin Wittering in the week and get his opinion, I am sure "even" with my 10 years of variously knacked two stroke experience; I am just new to the idiosyncrasies of the Rev 3... and the unknown quantities of a well used one... Can someone give me the basic Beta starting drill? I was going on: 1 open fuel tap 2 open choke 3 full throttle 4 find compression on lever, kick hard as possible / repeat on full throttle until it fires 5 blip for 3/4 mins or until you can feel some heat in the water pipes and shut the choke. 6 it should idle on it's own for a few mins, but best to get going lest it foul... 7 as soon as it is stopped, shut fuel if not starting immediately. Am I far out?

The idea was simple... Buy a cheap used bike (done, see below), join Berkhamstead MC (application in post), ride as often as possible, see how I feel in 6 months, sell current bike (bought with no real knowledge of the model or the sport), buy something new/newer using gained insight (so it matches my level, enthusiasm and riding style). So I bought this bike more or less blind... What have I done.... can't post images??? maybe because i am green to this forum

Hi Darren It's Angelo here fro the GLC I just bought a 2002 rev3... A few small problems I will post them up here later. I should have followed this buying inspection advice.... "As for the condition how good is each year question faults to look for etc have a look at the whole of the bike is it clean with no obvious damage (damage that would affect its use,) make a note of all the stuuf that is wrong as you go along so you have some idea of repairs at the end wheels are they bent, broken spokes, bearings ok, tyres ok engine, has it any leaks, water/oil, is the engine physically damaged (craked casings etc) does the oil look nice and clean in the crankcase take the water pump cover off (2 jubilee clips and couple of allen bolts) inside it should be nice and clean with NO signs of rust, the first signs would be round the very edges where the metal is thinnest. take the air filter cover off, (one screw) is the filter in one piece is it nice and clean, take the filter out (one screw) is the airbox nice and clean inside get your finger or a screwdriver and put it right to the bottom of the airbox below where the air goes in the carb there should be NO mud dust silt water down there grab hold of the rear wheel and give it a good old yank to see if thier is movement in the swing arm check the reaer shock is not leaking check the chain how much have the chain adjusters been turned round can you pull the chain away from the rear of the rear sproket, what do the teeth look like on the rear sproket they should be uniform with no chipping or uneven wear check the front forks do they go up and down smoothly are the chrome bits nice and smooth with no scrathes or rust are they leaking chek the head bearings by putting front brake on and trying to rock the bike back and forwards thier should be no movemnet at the steering head cheack the front brake pads thier should be 2 mm at least on each pad and the disc needs to be smooth and straight does it work the front wheel should lock up, exactly the same for the rear start the bike up (by now it will be nice and cold incase the seller had warmed it up before you got there!) it should tick over once warm with the choke off let it warm up out of gear rev it and roll it off you should hear no knocking like somebody hitting it with a hammer especially as it nears idle ride the thing up and down (no need for wheelies) just to make sure it goes up and down all the gears and that the clutch works ok stand back and let it tick over until the fan comes on look at the list youve made and then ask the seller how much he wants for it remember with a trials bike your buying on condition not on age much better an A1 1995 than a 2005 thats never had an oil change and has failed all the above betas are simple and reliable...."