[Stupid Is As Stupid Does.]

Please excuse the wrong pilot jet size I printed out , our sort of stuff would be for the 26mm Mikuni usually 

 

35/ 50 pilot size.

 

Thanks.

 

Larry

[Stupid Is As Stupid Does.]

Please excuse a fellow whose having some health problems but I am very old but have run Bulls for MANY Years, I

will share my knowledge to try to help.

(1) Never trust the new CONDENSER you can buy!! Add an automotive condenser beneath the tank!!!

(2) The carb looks Mikuni 26mm from locally, 100/120 pilot jets, 100/130 main jets.

(3) Timing, 2.8mm or pluss a little BTDC. firing.

(4) No idle on the throttle, start engine choke on , should start, let it warm up before trying to ask questions about leanness,

Please trust you have the BEST ENGINES ever !!!!

Good Luck

Larry

[Wheels Offset On 199A?]

Tom, wherever you got the spokes new from I pray they have the real deal going on, mine come from this

county & really fit , but you friend should be on the proper leg.

The dims I gave you early came from my m199 original, if you don't cross the spokes 3 times as orig.

then I don't know any other way,I still work in American measuring on wheels that are not bent.

Larry

[Wheels Offset On 199A?]

Hi, new friend!!

It certainly appears that you have new stainless spokes & wherever it has been re-spoked they have failed to record the

original offset & get things true again,the proper distance from the brake brake drum face to the edge of the rim needs to

be recorded before the re-spokeing starts to maintain the distance properly.

I don't have one torn down or I would be glad to give you the dims.

Perhaps someone has wheels down & can measure the offset to help you.

If no one can help I will pull my wheels and pass on these dims.

Larry

Went out and measured front wheel on my m199, 1.150 inch from LH edge of wheel,

Rear wheel, 1.600 from RH edge to flat below top edge on each wheel.

Hope this helps.

Can't get to the brake drum without tearing down sorry.

[Starting The Re-Build, Badly.....]

Neil, not a bad plan on the reassembly, you have trans in the LH case as desired, put the spring loaded detent soon.

Be sure you rewind the kick shaft 1/2 min turn against the return spring , whoever your friend is knows all this so

please excuse me for this preload of the spring, if you have a bearing on the mag side that there is movement, that is

rare for me, but any thing is possible.

I always use the necessary C3 bearings, usually Japanese KOYO I believe & have very good luck, I have only built 4 this

Spring & no problems, so good luck to you at all times.

Larry

[Oh, The Inevitability Of It All.]

NEIL

 

Your friends will be here to help.

 

I use an old Clymer manual, it will be of great help, the best is you are on a 5 speed Bultaco & for me they are the BEST.

 

Good Luck

 

Larry

[199 Small End Bearing]

Mark

 

Please be sure to put it in your existing rod & try the wrist pin to ensure it will go thru.

 

Larry

[What Mods Does A 199A Need?]

Please check your PM.Welcome to TC

 

Larry

[Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed]

Looks like a pretty good deal & they say the seals are good,  my only advice will be to shorten the spring

in the seal by 1/4 inch prior to installation.

 

Not my original idea, came from a friend many years ago & I find it very successful with my work.

 

Have a nice day

 

Larry

[Stumped By My Sherpa.]

Neil, as I see by your photos , no auto condenser under the tank as we discussed, I take it you have a new Femsa mess!!

 

Please do the electrics as we discussed.

 

Please don't sweat the seals.

 

Have a nice day.

 

Larry

[Stumped By My Sherpa.]

Neil,

Have you updated your ignition as we discussed (I think) condenser under the tank ect. ??

E mail if needed.

 

Larry

[Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed]

Little late with this post in regard to your #32 post, the carb has MIC on it which goes along with my latest project,

Suzuki rl250,s which there are 2 in the shop now, when doing a jet change I noticed the MIC on them along with

"made in Japan" these two are original & I don't know if China was into producing a Mikuni copy in 1974.

 

From the pictures you have posted the carb is to far away for me to see properly, you can pretty much tell by the

internals what it is.

 

Have a Good day

 

Larry

[Rl325 Fork Bushes.]

Well I used the 236cc measurement and it seems OK, without a spring & fully collapsed it measures @ 6 1/2 inches from the top,

I had heard over the years & again yesterday from my friends that approx. 6 inches is very common.

 

Got one of the two I am working on (rl250) out today in our warm 98/99 degree & rode a bit, just enough to get up to operating temp.

& find the 35 pilot is a bit rich so maybe tomorrow a 30 will be installed, 2 1/2 turns I don't like well. The carb is reduced from 28mm

to 24mm, & a 2 lb flywheel weight added.

 

Have a nice day

 

Larry

 

[Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed]

Ed

The marks are usually from someone marking it prior to removal so as to have a ref. point when replacing it

after removal possibly to replace the seals.

As to removing the screws, I would suggest  laying the bike down as close to level as possible & penetrating

oil over night, then a good screwdriver, next heat (soldering iron maybe) ,next a hand impact screwdriver, &

hope they come loose, (I've never broken a screwdriver here).

  As to the case problem, it needs to not let water in, I just finished the case & the side cover on a m185 that had big

time chain damage using fiberglass resin & cloth.

 

Hopefully you will get things going your way soon!!

 

Hope this photo will help with the condenser discussion earlier. (My wire color is terrible, but they get there)

 

Larry

 

[Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed]

Ed the condenser I have used to my satisfaction is , 1970 Ford 302 ci, there are many options,I believe there

is very little difference with the exception of a way to mount @ the coil location & if my stupid computer would

cooperate I would post a photo, it is not necessary to remove the original from its location, the worst thing to do

would be to replace with a stock condenser.

 

As we know the black wire is the hot wire , green is ground (usually this way), what I know about electrics testing

is very small, but have had a bunch of experience with the Bulls.

 

Clean/file the points, hook things back together, roll the engine with the kicker by hand , be sure to install the Ford

condenser, black wire, black coil wire, condenser, mounted/grounded.

 

Good Luck

 

Larry

 

[Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed]

Are you testing between the green & black? Green is ground, black is hot, if you test between the two you are going to a

kill the circuit mode.

 

Apparently you are saying "no fire @ the plug"? Clean the points.

 

In my experience putting in a new Femsa condenser is a waste of time & money, my suggestion always is an automotive

condenser under the tank.

 

Good Luck

 

Larry

 

[Rl325 Fork Bushes.]

Thanks John, I will do a little experimentation as the 236cc really seems to be a bunch!!

 

Have a nice day

 

Larry

[Rl325 Fork Bushes.]

Just need a little assurance as to the amount of oil/ATF in the forks, my only source is an rl250 service manual

which calls for 236cc, this sounds like a bunch as I am used to Betor forks on my other bikes 180cc per leg.

 

Please any help will be appreciated as I have two in the shop ready for oil now.

 

Of interest one has the undercut as shown by John, the other none at all, both are alloy tank models.

 

Thanks

 

Larry

[How Should They Sound?]

Netley,The engine has a lot of idle setting, this will cause the the engine to be slow to return to a nice idle, I come from the old ways

of a dead throttle style as we never thought of using the clutch except for starting a section & stopping to get your card punched.

 

We cant tell by your film as to engine sounds, next time try a low idle while sitting still, clutch pulled & released, many times a noisy

engine comes from the clutch & is nothing new.

 

Listen to Guys tape as he has a very good sound as it is on the stand.

 

Larry

[Old Bultaco]

Larry, looking really good!!

The clutch adjustment that I use on 5 speeds (no experience w/4speeds) is adjust all the slack available @ the lever, adjust the clutch @

the engine to a light "no slack" then back off 1/4 turn or a little more, 1/2 turn max, lock it down & adjust @ the lever to a bit of clearance

this hopefully will have you in good shape, fill in proper amount of Dexron ATF & let her rip.

 

Have a good day

 

Larry

[Silver Engine Rl250 Question-Thrust Washer/crank]

Just recently (last week) did a split to replace mag side main bearing, big thing (6306) & the 2 thrust washers you speak of

are there as well, so on re-assembly they went back as they came out & the crank may be slightly to the RH.

I suspect the thrust washers take up the room the original TS250 using the slinger ring & oil injection.

Check your PM.

 

Larry

[Following On From Sherpa Advice.]

Yes, and you have a recent Email on this subject.

 

Larry

[Following On From Sherpa Advice.]

Neil

Please E mail

 

Thanks

 

Larry

[Model 97 "sherpina" Lurching]

When you say 50 tooth/42 tooth rear sprockets 428 or 520 chain??

 

I personally have owned Sherpa Ts for many years, m49, m92, m199 & have never had a seal problem, have had very good luck

with all Bultacos.

On the carb issue VM26 jetting, I see you are in the states, for a 250cc what jets are you using?

 

Check your Personal Message

 

Larry

[Sherpa T Engine Development]

Hi & welcome to TC

 

I don't believe you can just use a 325 jug and the rest on a 250 bottom end as the bore in the case is larger, ref 72mm bore 250,

and 83.2 bore 325.

M92 thru m151 did use a modified 250 case but a different crank which has a larger crank pin & top end bearing, so you really need to

stay@ 250 or find a real 325 engine.

 

Sorry to pass on this news.

 

What are the engine numbers you now have?

 

Larry