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lbhbul

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Posts posted by lbhbul
 
 
  1. Rob, Welcome first! If you are referring to a 1972 Mod 91 ( engine s/n 91xxxx)

    Then a safe nbr that I use is 12 to 14 ft lbs.

    I don't have my manual at hand but you will be safe there as I use it for all my

    work.

    Larry

  2. If its the same type clutch as I have fixed on Shercos, Betas,Scorpas in the past, clean the glue up then

    do this very simple (hour or so) fix, finish off with my choice only Dexron ATF.

    post-14329-0-37338600-1434383346_thumb.jpg

    post-14329-0-01519800-1434383408_thumb.jpg

    Not fancy, thread file 10 or 11 pitch, 3 strokes each pad.

    Try not to go to deep, all we are trying to do is add radial grooves to

    help break up the sticktion  and sling the oil out.

    Try it you will like it.

    Shaky old camera hands, sorry about that.

    Larry

     

     

     

     

  3. Remembering back to my last encounter with an Amal carb, an old way was to hold your thumb

    over the tell tale hole to prevent washing the engine and putting the fuel where it belongs.

    I have 5 Amal 627's on hand in a box on the shelf.

    At the present time have 1 Mk 1 MAR in the family presently (Mikuni carb of course).

    • Like 1
  4. Larry, there  are others more knowledgeable on M 10 , but they appear to be of the taper tops that were used

    up thru M 85 Alpinas at least, I have used early sliders on later tubes with no problems.

    I only offer this as my own experience.

    One other word of caution M 92 and on have the knurling below what you need.

     

    Larry

     

  5. Maybe these will be of some use in your understanding of the difference in our part of the world

    as the only fiberglass tanks I personally have seen used, there may be others that have seen

    different tanks

    post-14329-0-20280600-1432921607_thumb.jpg 

    post-14329-0-42698200-1432921764_thumb.jpgpost-14329-0-57706200-1432922013_thumb.jpg

    Notice shape of top,   seat juncture, and bottom shape, this style of tank from M 158 thru

    M191 Sherpa T,they are about 8 1/2 inches at their widest point.

     

    Hope this helps

    Larry

     

     

     

     

  6. Well, I have never seen fiberglass tanks with the bottoms like older models, (flat),

    made for later models.

    that said the red tank looks OK, (don't know how wide) the blue is different and I

    didn't see anything like it in my search, if the seat fits it will be OK for use as long as

    the stops are long enough.

     

    I am sure you will find more help here.

    Welcome.

    Larry

  7. Larry 2, it is a product that Farriers use to repair split hooves when shoeing horses.

    it also has many other applications IE tank repair ect.

    I don't believe our source ships internationally however, there may be a similar product available to you.

    This  is a 2 part epoxy that when mixed goes off in 3 minutes, and is the consistency of water so it gets in

    every place, trade name Kwik Poly, you can read on the web.

    Very thorough cleaning required, as with other products.

    Larry

  8. Larry, was wondering if you were still kicking around , good to hear from you again!!

     

    I was protecting the tank as it was already painted before I had it to line the inside with a

    two part epoxy to hopefully prevent damage from modern fuels, (no ethanol regardless).

    Had good luck during the cleaning process and subsequent lining,(no drips).

     

    Mailed it off to Texas this morning.

    Larry

  9. Pretty good day yesterday, tank all clean and ready for lining

    post-14329-0-12510300-1432425923_thumb.jpg

     Three passes and clean the threads, unmask and get out of

    the shop cause the fumes are getting to me, I'll add the newly refreshed

    seat later, turn the fans on high.

    Gotta get some fresh air!!!

    post-14329-0-50959000-1432426439_thumb.jpg

    Have a nice day

    Larry

     

    • Like 6
  10. Well another fun few hours in the shop today, if you find that your clutch on your bike

    that you are sorting for the upcoming event seems to have an inordinate amount of drag

    this may be part of the problem; flat bearingpost-14329-0-23357400-1431816728_thumb.jpg

    This is from a 199A and( the more common one)post-14329-0-49137900-1431816825_thumb.jpg

    They are different as to the lock screw locationpost-14329-0-18599700-1431816994_thumb.jpg

    I hope this works, spot of weld , now it cant come up.

    Larry

    • Like 2
  11. A very worthy project you have in mind, the cost is not to be a concern.

    The hard starting could be as simple as a flooding carb, but is more likely electrical.

    Mount an automotive condenser under the tank. Cheap insurance.

     

    As for spending quality time with Dad,

     

    You only go round once!!

     

    Larry

  12. Hario, Thanks and am glad to be of help.

    Combination plate fiber against clutch basket 1st in, ended up w/ fiber against pressure plate.

    A help for bleeding, from the bottom up I use a smaller pump oil can (new or really clean) w/ short length of

    fuel line. Just A way of bleeding. Clutch & front brake usually pretty easy, rear not so nice.

    For the Pampera, all good springs probably necessary.

    Have a nice day, BTW where are you?

    Larry

  13. Hario, I will take my clutch apart shortly. In the mean time the springs that are not in my clutch measure

    1.490 inch..

    I also understand the bike is new to you so we don't know what PO may have changed.

    These are the junk plates that I replaced with new junk plates; helped it to be just like other brands.

    Larrypost-14329-0-64225800-1431526660_thumb.jpg

  14. Hario, The plates do appear to be the original ones, they had a very distinct pattern and release very well

    as compared to the after market junk, yours do not appear to be worn, and don't know why they would slip

    if everything is adjusted (free travel @ the lever) no other adjustments left. I don't have access to an original

    @ this time but I know mine has a steel plate in first then a friction,

    Yes we run 4 springs , your springs may be sacked & need replaced or maybe you can get by preloading them

    slightly, none the less you have the best clutch plates & we are not able to get new ones anymore.

    Larry

  15. Bultaco 199, If you are going to use Barnett plates, there are several places on TC as to the set up.

    With a cable in good order & 4 springs you can have a nice 1 or 2 finger clutch if that is what your

    wanting.

    1st plate in has to be earless unless you enjoy slipping when kicking.

    Stock is also fine, requires

    all springs.

    Nice bike by the way. See also" Action Shots in Bultaco."

    Larry

    • Like 1
  16. Whatever you do please take this as experience with the earlier design GG, (2001 TXT in my hands),

    do not use aftermarket clutch plates! Been there. You have the best clutch GG ever had IMHO,

    Mine has s***f*** junk and without careful attention will not release properly, not unlike some other brands.

    The original clutch plates you show look fine,not sure about the order as to the first plate in, Sherpa T will

    slip when kicking if first plate is not steel when using Barnett plates & 4 springs, several early GG in our

    group, all w/4 springs, running Dexron. My experience only.

  17. Maybe these photos which I failed to post last evening will be of some help, my 199 seems to stay pretty

    straight but then I don't ride rocks much or anything else like we all once did.

    Larry

    post-14329-0-43929700-1431350083_thumb.jpgpost-14329-0-90606000-1431350174_thumb.jpg

    very un-twisty, too harsh for my thinking, I prefer the nice soft Bultaco fork action.

 
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