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lbhbul

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Everything posted by lbhbul
 
 
  1. Please excuse the wrong pilot jet size I printed out , our sort of stuff would be for the 26mm Mikuni usually 35/ 50 pilot size. Thanks. Larry
  2. Please excuse a fellow whose having some health problems but I am very old but have run Bulls for MANY Years, I will share my knowledge to try to help. (1) Never trust the new CONDENSER you can buy!! Add an automotive condenser beneath the tank!!! (2) The carb looks Mikuni 26mm from locally, 100/120 pilot jets, 100/130 main jets. (3) Timing, 2.8mm or pluss a little BTDC. firing. (4) No idle on the throttle, start engine choke on , should start, let it warm up before trying to ask questions about leanness, Please trust you have the BEST ENGINES ever !!!! Good Luck Larry
  3. Tom, wherever you got the spokes new from I pray they have the real deal going on, mine come from this county & really fit , but you friend should be on the proper leg. The dims I gave you early came from my m199 original, if you don't cross the spokes 3 times as orig. then I don't know any other way,I still work in American measuring on wheels that are not bent. Larry
  4. Hi, new friend!! It certainly appears that you have new stainless spokes & wherever it has been re-spoked they have failed to record the original offset & get things true again,the proper distance from the brake brake drum face to the edge of the rim needs to be recorded before the re-spokeing starts to maintain the distance properly. I don't have one torn down or I would be glad to give you the dims. Perhaps someone has wheels down & can measure the offset to help you. If no one can help I will pull my wheels and pass on these dims. Larry Went out and measured front wheel on my m199, 1.150 inch from LH edge of wheel, Rear wheel, 1.600 from RH edge to flat below top edge on each wheel. Hope this helps. Can't get to the brake drum without tearing down sorry.
  5. Neil, not a bad plan on the reassembly, you have trans in the LH case as desired, put the spring loaded detent soon. Be sure you rewind the kick shaft 1/2 min turn against the return spring , whoever your friend is knows all this so please excuse me for this preload of the spring, if you have a bearing on the mag side that there is movement, that is rare for me, but any thing is possible. I always use the necessary C3 bearings, usually Japanese KOYO I believe & have very good luck, I have only built 4 this Spring & no problems, so good luck to you at all times. Larry
  6. NEIL Your friends will be here to help. I use an old Clymer manual, it will be of great help, the best is you are on a 5 speed Bultaco & for me they are the BEST. Good Luck Larry
  7. Mark Please be sure to put it in your existing rod & try the wrist pin to ensure it will go thru. Larry
  8. Please check your PM.Welcome to TC Larry
  9. Looks like a pretty good deal & they say the seals are good, my only advice will be to shorten the spring in the seal by 1/4 inch prior to installation. Not my original idea, came from a friend many years ago & I find it very successful with my work. Have a nice day Larry
  10. Neil, as I see by your photos , no auto condenser under the tank as we discussed, I take it you have a new Femsa mess!! Please do the electrics as we discussed. Please don't sweat the seals. Have a nice day. Larry
  11. Neil, Have you updated your ignition as we discussed (I think) condenser under the tank ect. ?? E mail if needed. Larry
  12. Little late with this post in regard to your #32 post, the carb has MIC on it which goes along with my latest project, Suzuki rl250,s which there are 2 in the shop now, when doing a jet change I noticed the MIC on them along with "made in Japan" these two are original & I don't know if China was into producing a Mikuni copy in 1974. From the pictures you have posted the carb is to far away for me to see properly, you can pretty much tell by the internals what it is. Have a Good day Larry
  13. Well I used the 236cc measurement and it seems OK, without a spring & fully collapsed it measures @ 6 1/2 inches from the top, I had heard over the years & again yesterday from my friends that approx. 6 inches is very common. Got one of the two I am working on (rl250) out today in our warm 98/99 degree & rode a bit, just enough to get up to operating temp. & find the 35 pilot is a bit rich so maybe tomorrow a 30 will be installed, 2 1/2 turns I don't like well. The carb is reduced from 28mm to 24mm, & a 2 lb flywheel weight added. Have a nice day Larry
  14. Ed The marks are usually from someone marking it prior to removal so as to have a ref. point when replacing it after removal possibly to replace the seals. As to removing the screws, I would suggest laying the bike down as close to level as possible & penetrating oil over night, then a good screwdriver, next heat (soldering iron maybe) ,next a hand impact screwdriver, & hope they come loose, (I've never broken a screwdriver here). As to the case problem, it needs to not let water in, I just finished the case & the side cover on a m185 that had big time chain damage using fiberglass resin & cloth. Hopefully you will get things going your way soon!! Hope this photo will help with the condenser discussion earlier. (My wire color is terrible, but they get there) Larry
  15. Ed the condenser I have used to my satisfaction is , 1970 Ford 302 ci, there are many options,I believe there is very little difference with the exception of a way to mount @ the coil location & if my stupid computer would cooperate I would post a photo, it is not necessary to remove the original from its location, the worst thing to do would be to replace with a stock condenser. As we know the black wire is the hot wire , green is ground (usually this way), what I know about electrics testing is very small, but have had a bunch of experience with the Bulls. Clean/file the points, hook things back together, roll the engine with the kicker by hand , be sure to install the Ford condenser, black wire, black coil wire, condenser, mounted/grounded. Good Luck Larry
  16. Are you testing between the green & black? Green is ground, black is hot, if you test between the two you are going to a kill the circuit mode. Apparently you are saying "no fire @ the plug"? Clean the points. In my experience putting in a new Femsa condenser is a waste of time & money, my suggestion always is an automotive condenser under the tank. Good Luck Larry
  17. Thanks John, I will do a little experimentation as the 236cc really seems to be a bunch!! Have a nice day Larry
  18. Just need a little assurance as to the amount of oil/ATF in the forks, my only source is an rl250 service manual which calls for 236cc, this sounds like a bunch as I am used to Betor forks on my other bikes 180cc per leg. Please any help will be appreciated as I have two in the shop ready for oil now. Of interest one has the undercut as shown by John, the other none at all, both are alloy tank models. Thanks Larry
  19. Netley,The engine has a lot of idle setting, this will cause the the engine to be slow to return to a nice idle, I come from the old ways of a dead throttle style as we never thought of using the clutch except for starting a section & stopping to get your card punched. We cant tell by your film as to engine sounds, next time try a low idle while sitting still, clutch pulled & released, many times a noisy engine comes from the clutch & is nothing new. Listen to Guys tape as he has a very good sound as it is on the stand. Larry
  20. lbhbul

    Old Bultaco

    Larry, looking really good!! The clutch adjustment that I use on 5 speeds (no experience w/4speeds) is adjust all the slack available @ the lever, adjust the clutch @ the engine to a light "no slack" then back off 1/4 turn or a little more, 1/2 turn max, lock it down & adjust @ the lever to a bit of clearance this hopefully will have you in good shape, fill in proper amount of Dexron ATF & let her rip. Have a good day Larry
  21. Just recently (last week) did a split to replace mag side main bearing, big thing (6306) & the 2 thrust washers you speak of are there as well, so on re-assembly they went back as they came out & the crank may be slightly to the RH. I suspect the thrust washers take up the room the original TS250 using the slinger ring & oil injection. Check your PM. Larry
  22. Yes, and you have a recent Email on this subject. Larry
  23. Neil Please E mail Thanks Larry
  24. When you say 50 tooth/42 tooth rear sprockets 428 or 520 chain?? I personally have owned Sherpa Ts for many years, m49, m92, m199 & have never had a seal problem, have had very good luck with all Bultacos. On the carb issue VM26 jetting, I see you are in the states, for a 250cc what jets are you using? Check your Personal Message Larry
  25. Hi & welcome to TC I don't believe you can just use a 325 jug and the rest on a 250 bottom end as the bore in the case is larger, ref 72mm bore 250, and 83.2 bore 325. M92 thru m151 did use a modified 250 case but a different crank which has a larger crank pin & top end bearing, so you really need to stay@ 250 or find a real 325 engine. Sorry to pass on this news. What are the engine numbers you now have? Larry
 
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