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Old Bultaco


jlp
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Hello Guys,

I'm new here but I notice there are a few queries about old Bultacos. I have a Sherpa T which has been in my shed for years begging for attention which I have not given as I have old cars whose needs have been greater until now. Anyway, its a 1968 engine no.M1001275, Frame no. B100275. Its a 4 speed. I will need parts for this such as cables, rear brake inner drum (on which the shoes are mounted) third gear sprocket (serious! broke it when changing gear with a broken clutch cable. Silly, but I was young then!) Various other stuff. Where's the best place to look?

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Are you sure about the 1968 year? Assuming that the differnce in frame and engine numbers is a typo and that the correct number is 1275 this is an interesting number as the model 10 4 speed production was 1275 total. In other words the last M10. This would be a series M10 series 2 with the flat bottom tank from about early 67 (model 27 intoduced 5/67) If 275 correct please ignor all this!

Inmotion do stock M10 parts but parts for this model can be difficult to come by. The rear brake plate you have missing should not be to difficult as this was common to other models. The broken gear ( I assume a gear sprocket is in fact a gear) is going to be quite a challenge so I wish you luck with that.

Where are you located?

I also have a Model 10 restoration project. I did own a Late M10 series 2 that I have riden in the past. I sold this a few years back ( it went to spain) as I needed the money to help fund rebuilding a crashed single seat light aircraft (Luton Minor). Whilst I was rebuilding the plane I bought an early M10 project that I planned to start restoring when the plane was complete. I did start restoring this bike but then I bought a vintage car project. (1935 BSA Scout Series 1) and the M10 was returned to under the bench. The car is making good progress and should be on the road next year and then the plan is to get back onto the M10 restoration.

Stuart

Edited by twinnshock
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Don't discount making the broken gear if you fail to source one. If you've still got the old one you'll find an engineer somewhere who can remanufacture it. No idea what this would cost mind you, unfortunately we don't have the facilities in our place. I once got a worn out mainshaft hard chromed and ground for not very much. This was way before the days of internet and ebay and I didn't know anywhere that I could get another one, so repair was my only option.

http://www.ralphsbultaco.blogspot.co.uk

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Many thanks for the info Stuart. I checked the engine number and it is M100 1275. The original road tax book which I have gives the frame no. as B100 275 but for the life of me I can not find any number on the frame. Where is it normally stamped? You seem to be in the same boat as myself as I'm trying to restore a Lotus Elan +2 but funds are tight so I reckon the bike must go if I can make it respectable without interfering with its originality. I am based in Wicklow, Rep. of Ireland.

I think Trailie has the right idea re. third gear, I think I can get a new one cut as I have the original (it broke in half).

BTW. I had to change my name here as I forgot my logon details, Age is a terrible affliction!

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Wicklow, Bit to far for a quick get together to discuss bikes. Out of interest my Luton Minor plane was bought by me after a landing accident not to far from you at Kilrush airfield in Co. Kildare.

The gear should not be a problem just a matter of cost. I have cut gears myself in the past but my biggest issue is getting reliable heat treatment done. The local firm I used for many years has finally closed their doors for good. Trying to get home office jobs through at work is also getting harder (I am a development engineer for Ford working on Diesel engines)

The engine number on the frame should be stamped on the headstock, Does your road tax book give year of first registration. The engine number as stated earlier is the last M10. and would be probabaly early 67. It could have stood in a dealers hence your belief in 1968. The frame number quoted I think is one digit short and I think should match the engine number.

Obviously these old bikes could have been changed over the years so nothing is definate. The first series had the classic roundish tank. The series 2 later bikes had a tank with a flat bottom. They also made the swinging arm slightly longer for the series 2 to try to improve grip in mud.

I have attached photographs of my original M10 that I have since sold (appologies to new owner in Spain!) so you can see the location of the numbers and the fact they match. This bike is in fact a series 2 but somebody had fitted an earlier tank at sometime. My current project has a rusty headstock so does not photograph well.

Hope you keep with the project.

Stuart

post-547-0-91616700-1414443275_thumb.jpg

post-547-0-58389000-1414443287_thumb.jpg

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Thanks again Stuart. The tax book gives the tear of manufacture as 1968 but you are probably right that it was probably imported some time previously. It was first registered on 10/10/68. I'll try and post photo's although I'm not great at this.

post-20650-0-15110500-1414448741_thumb.jpgpost-20650-0-98170800-1414448837_thumb.jpgpost-20650-0-41187900-1414448930_thumb.jpg

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Nice photographs. Engine number no doubt last M10. Tank and frame are series 2. Flat botton tank with single foward bolt on top not side. Steering stop lugs on the downtube. The series 1 has a horizonatal foward bolt with the nuts doubling up as the stops. Only 1 bracket for the engine bash plate and positioned. All this does not match a "0275" frame number so I am more convinced that a 1 has been missed from the frame number in your documents. The Monza fuel filler cap is obviously wrong and I think somebody has changed (for the better) the foot rests for folding items.(Miller?) The top yoke looks original. These were not known for strength and many bikes had this item changed for an after market item. My old M10 had a top yoke which was marketed by Jim Sandiford so it was not just Miller offering parts.

Good luck with the bike.

Stuart

Edited by twinnshock
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This gets more interesting. I checked the frame in detail today. I stripped the paint off the headstock but can find no serial number. However, I did find a large letter C stamped on the right side and a large B stamped on the front. No other marks that I can find.

From what you tell me Stuart, the engine was fitted in a later frame at some stage. From reading other posts, this seems to be quite a common occurrence. Although the original owner as far as I can estimate would have only owned it for about 4 years before passing it on to the guy who gave it (yes gave!) it to me and as far as I know he did not trial it. I have had the bike for about 40 years(why do these projects take so long to get started?)

I will be asking in due course for some tips on the restoration process hopefully without boring you all to death!

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Thanks for posting your photos, It looks like you have all the bare bones of a model 10 there.

Have you decided whether to restore it back to original or "up and running"?

If you can't find the frame number on the head tube, have a look on the frame just above the left (near side) foot rest or next to the left upper shock mount..

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Thanks for the pointers Bultacosd. I'm currently stripping the paint off so I'm keeping a lookout for marks as I go. It was hand painted at some stage so there's a couple of layers to remove and I bought some environmental type stripper. I reckon spit would work quicker! Back to the good old Nitromors.

As far as restoration, I generally restore cars leaving some evidence of a past life. I other words, I don't seek perfection. So we'll see how we go. I be checking back here for advice as I progress. Any views on the letters on the headstock?

Attaching another pic of bare frame. I'm going to ask a silly question here, where and what is the top yoke?

post-20650-0-32863100-1414790730_thumb.jpg

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The top and bottom yokes are what you see fixed to the headstock in the picture and what hold the fork stanchions.

No idea what the letters on the headstock are, pictures may give some others on here a clue

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Jlpar

I have an original parts book (Series 2) that I scanned and saved as a pdf. A few years ago I did post this on another site so is available on the web but I can send you a copy. Please PM me your email address if you would like this.

I think it is out of copyright!

Stuart

Edited by twinnshock
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About 14 years ago I did a trade with a guy from America . The deal was 2 model 10 sherpas for a model 42 pursang and a model 73 tiron , whats very interesting is the fact that one of the sherpas I sent him had the matching serial nos M/B 1001275 , this was definitely the no as I keep a log of every bike I have owned and at the time it struck me it was the highest model 10 serial no I had seen (it still is ) . This isn't the first instance I have heard of with bultacos sharing the same serial nos .

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