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bultacosd

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About bultacosd

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    bultaco sherpa t m49

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  1. Hi, To access the bulb, simply twist the serrated plastic collar anti clockwise and pull it out the back of the reflector. (NO TOCAR) do not touch the silver of the reflector. If you remove the spring clips, the lens and reflector can be separated from the chrome plated rim. Hope this helps ?
  2. Hi, Does your LT coil have Black wire and a green wire (Earth)? These wires are joined to each end of coil? You need this type of coil if you want to wire the brake light without using a battery. Some LT coils only have the Black wire, the other end of the coil is soldered to the laminated core and this is the end where the coil is earthed. It is sometimes possible to unsolder this end of the coil and connect a green wire to it. Better still, find the correct coil. Assuming all is good... The black wire from the LT goes to the HT . Cut out button on the handlebars should also connect to this wire The green (Earth) wire from the LT goes to a connector (A) and from there to the brake light switch .....If your Campera has the correct switch fitted, it will be closed (Conducts). The other end of the switch is connected to the the frame. The coil is now earthed.. the bike will run. Run the bike, press the foot brake pedal and the engine stops...(the connection to earth is now broken and the bike won't run.) Now join another wire from the connector (A) to the brake light bulb. The other side of the bulb is joined to ground. Run bike...(Coil is earthed through switch) Now press brake pedal (Conection to ground is broken) but wait.....a less attractive / slightly higher resistance route to ground through the brake light bulb exists....The bulb lights up and the engine continues running.... But what happens if the bulb blows?....Engine stops.....we need a back up... Join the wire from the resistor (has a slightly higher resistance than the bulb) to the connector block (A) The other end of the resistor goes to ground. If the brake light bulb fails then your coil will find earth through this component. This system really does work well. No battery needed...Good luck.
  3. I geared up my mk3 by increasing the size of the front sprocket. Unfortunately I can't remember the size. Cruises at 55mph no problem.
  4. I stripped down my M27 last year, new main bearings/ seals etc. Everything seemed fine after the rebuild. A couple of days later I noticed an oil leak. I traced this back to the final drive oil seal, or so I thought....had I forgotten to replace the skinny oil ring that goes on the sleeve gear? Nope. After close examination I spotted the cause of the leak. Oil was escaping past the flat bearing of the sleeve gear where the main shaft rotates. I pulled the engine apart again and was very surprised by the amount of wear on the end of the main shaft. I knew it would be bad as i was able to wobble the final drive sprocket with my hand. I replace the main shaft and made new flat bushes for the centre of the sleeve gear, problem solved. My advice would be to check this if you are going to strip down your engine.
  5. Hi Mark, The wiring diagram posted by Lorenzo is the correct one for your bike. I have successfully wired up 6 Bultacos using this diagram. Before you start, check you have the following.... 1 Femsa regulator (consists of zenor diode and resistor attached to a bracket) 2 Femsa brake light switch (when the rear brake is operated the switch opens- yes this seems the wrong way round but believe me it's correct) 3 A good earth on the front and rear lights (particularly if you are using plastic mudguards) The black wire does indeed go to the HT , this also connects to the cut out. The green wire goes to the REGULATOR not ground. Look carefully at the diagram and you will see that the green wire from then engine connects to ground via the brake light switch. When the brake pedal is operated, the brake switch opens and earth is made through the brake light filament thus illuminating the bulb. (Very clever) if the bulb has blown, earth is made through the resistor and it is usually a bit of a pig to start. By the time you wire up lights on your 2nd or 3rd Bultaco you'll get the hang of it. I must say that I have had no problems ((touch wood)) with this set up. PM me if you get really stuck, I am sure we can sort it out. Jon
  6. Hi, Your points should have 3 wires connected to them. The LT coil, the condenser and the wire that connects the points to the HT coil. However, it's a good idea to remove the condenser from the ignition plate. (There are only 2 wires connected to the points now, LT coil and wire that goes up to the HT coil) Drill a hole near the edge of the frame web next to the HT and fix your condenser here with a small M4 set screw and nyloc nut. Join the wire from the points, condenser, HT and cut out button wire together and voila. The condenser will enjoy the relative coolness under the tank and you will enjoy the relative ease of changing it if necessary. P.S. if you have an old condenser, cut the wire off the end and fit it in the original position. This will help maintain the cam lubricator (felt support) in the correct position. Sorry, I forgot to mention. If you decide to mount the condenser under the tank, make sure you scrape away the paint on the frame where the condenser will be mounted so that you have a good earth.
  7. bultacosd

    Points Setting

    I managed to compare a set of reproduction points with a set of original and I believe I have tracked the problem down. I compared the length of the lever to the fulcrum and they were identical...however, I noticed that the rub blocks were in slightly different positions./ The rub block on the original points are riveted flush with the end of the points lever, on the new set they extend past this edge by about 1mm. This does not seem to be much of a difference but I had to extend the 3 tracks on the back plate by about 10mm to enable me to retard the ignition down to 2.5mm whilst retaining the 0.45mm points gap. Extending the back plate slots is relatively easy. Remove the plate. Use a marker pen to to plot the extensions to the slots. Use a Dremel with a small milling attachment. I managed to do this with the coils in situ but if you are in any doubt it would be wise to remove them first. Good luck one and all...and kick out kick back.
  8. bultacosd

    Points Setting

    Hi everyone, I have fitted points and adjusted the timing on a fair number of Bultaco's over the past 25 years. Last year, for the first time, I encountered the same problem that many of you have experienced. i.e. not enough adjustment on the ignition plate to set the correct timing position. I also noticed that on a couple of my bikes that it was difficult to get the points to open wide enough. Now, this is just a theory, but I think the points supplied to me are not the same as the original. In particular, the length of the arm from the fulcrum to the block in contact with the cam. The difference is slightly less than 1mm but it's enough to cause trouble. If anyone is able check this then that would be a weight off my mind and it may be worth letting BultacoUK know that there is an issue. My solution was not to complain or make a fuss (I don't know where i'd be without Bultacouk) but I simply used a Dremel to increase the 3 slots on the ignition plate. This job took about 20 minutes to complete and the results are good. I set up the timing by playing around with the points gap initially but I was worried that with such a small gap that the points would be more prone to closing up during use = no spark. Let's get to the bottom of this lads....or 2.5mm above top dead centre...
  9. bultacosd

    Old Bultaco

    Thanks for posting your photos, It looks like you have all the bare bones of a model 10 there. Have you decided whether to restore it back to original or "up and running"? If you can't find the frame number on the head tube, have a look on the frame just above the left (near side) foot rest or next to the left upper shock mount..
  10. It all depends on whether you want to restore it to ride or put it back to the original. Bultaco UK will get your bike going for sure and as the previous post mentions it is well worth giving them a ring. When restoring a Bultaco I will always call them first and then widen the search. I have restored a few model 10s over the years and must admit that tracking the parts down is all part of the fun. What parts do you need? Can you post any photos?, it would be nice to see what you are starting with.
  11. Hi Stuart, Many years ago I met a Spanish Bultaco Guru deep in the heart of Catalonia. We broke bread and shared tapas in a typically busy noisy tavern. As the evening wore on, I looked him square in the eye and asked him,"Toni, Why does your early model 10 have a side stand and the one have at home doesn't?" He spat out an olive stone, as it landed on the plate the bar fell silent and he said, "In England you have more trees to lean your bike against"... A huge cheer erupted, and everyone present raised their glass in salute. My analysis of his reply is thus. Bultaco were always tinkering with the specification of their bikes and it often depended on which country they were destined for. The model 10 "national" version has a side stand for certain and I bet the ones that went to USA, NZ etc did as well. Obviously the penny finally dropped that there were perhaps not as many trees in the Uk as anticipated. Legend has it that Sammy Miller commissioned the New Forrest in order to alleviate the problem, but thankfully the factory yielded and side stands were soon fitted as standard.. I see this as an early victory for common sense. 669NHO does not have a side stand. Rather than weld one on, I simply carry round a large potted Olive tree. Hope this helps
  12. bultacosd

    669 Nho

    Photographs of the original Bultaco Sherpa T (registered as 669NHO in November '64)can be seen in Don Morley's, Spanish Trials Bikes. Pages 23 to 25. Sammy was given two bikes as part of his contract with the Bultaco factory in 1964 according to Maurizio Gaudenzi's, Bultaco Sherpa T Guia del Collectionista/buyers guide. I am pretty certain that the bike in the Sammy's museum is not the 2nd bike but possibly some other development bike......
  13. bultacosd

    669 Nho

    Hi Triple_X, The short answer is that 669 is privately owned, however, I think it is possible that the bike in the Miller museum may have been a development bike.
  14. Before you fit the steel race (top hat bush) make sure you have replaced the "thin" o ring that sits next to the main bearing. I do not think the race is supposed to be flush with the seal holder, all will become clear when you put the clutch back together as the race is a spacer that will allow the primary drive chain to line up.
  15. bultacosd

    M190 Front Axle

    Try this, Take wheel out. Fit the spindle into the forks . Put the nut on as you had it before. Measure the distance from the the fork leg to the shoulder on the spindle. (A) Now look at your wheel.... Measure the distance through the hub & brake plate and spacer. ( If measurement B is greater than A then you have possible got a spacer in the wrong orientation. If measurement A = B check the spindle is true and without burrs. Hope this makes sense.
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