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Try draining whatever is in the primary case, try to flush it a bit of diesel, ect, shift into 5th gear & pull the clutch in & rock it back & forth until the clutch plates come loose, drain the cleaner & re fill with 250 cc's of Dexron ATF , hopefully it will then work out for you. If the above does not help then its time for a tear down on the clutch side. The std. clutch is all metal & you may have some rust from sitting from 1974. Good Luck Larry

Sam I have done just what you ask about and can do it again when ever I want as my son owns my original Miller frame SM 2xx (325) from 1973 & also a M49 (250) (last model frame),and to us it really comes down to they are very similar in handling, the Miller has more ground clearance but handling, they are very close, both have IRC tires so you cant get a much closer comparison. The Miller has the shocks lower some 3 inches forward so that will change the fork angle close to a degree so I suppose that will help a bit, he rides both bikes equally on most occasions , so I guess there isn't a significant difference in the two with the exception of ground clearance & CHROME. Larry

Hi Larry 2, The clutch issue can be resolved with some file work on the plate edges where they are upset, then a bit of rust removal & they should be OK to go with. The primary chain appears quite loose & no apparent tensioner as in later 5 speeds so probably needs replaced.(I'm not 4 speed knowledgeable) As to the nut on primary flywheel; I don't know but would assume RH thread, I will call our source today to find out for sure, I always use air impact to get things loose. E-mail if you want. Have a good day Larry

The original linings are in my opinion better than what is sold as a replacement today, I cant seem to get any satisfaction from the new stuff. I have seen posted here on TC places where you can get good advice & good brake service in your neighborhood. Larry

Jeremy, Welcome! In regard to your question, as Graham says the unhooked plug is just filling a hole. I don't know what your plans are, but if you have fire with the points ignition it will be fine in my mind to stay there. If you add an automotive condenser under the tank, then it will be quite reliable. ( orig. condenser not so good ) Have a nice day Larry

Well I had a bit of time so got the bottom all bonded & glassed back together, washed it out with lacquer thinner ,then acetone (quick with the acetone), got things all dry then on to the application of Kwik Poly (2 part epoxy that is like water with 3 minute work time) this is good arm exercise as you better not slow down until Sues' cooking timer goes off, 3 applications & I'm done. Later I will get the body work done & painted then hopefully the Silk Purse. To be continued. Larry

Jeremy Welcome M85 in our part of the country were both ways/low&high so I'm not an authority on Alpinas, early maybe were low and later high as your post notes, some probably used Sherpa T mounts. This is one I built & used some S. Miller fender mounts, I realize the blue fenders don't replicate a proper M85. Have a nice day Larry

Really a nice machine. Thank you

The thread is RH, probably will require air impact as they are not that easy to hold. Have a nice day Larry

Ride the old girl and enjoy , if it has that kind of compression you have a good way to go before worrying about a rebuild. Sherpa T's for the most part in this country don't really see a lot of hours as they aren't very comfortable to ride trails on. It's pretty easy to check the mag side for any movement in the bearing, if the clutch works OK have fun, as stated earlier the early 5 speeds used a key on the main shaft, the last m49 I built had same but it would accept Barnett plates same as later engines so I am certainly not sure on m27. The life of the Bulls is certainly dependent on maint. thru their lives, but it sounds like you have a winner.

Well said, and so often over looked, any points ignition deserves a new one. Larry

A little progress report as we have got the inside cleaned & ground out where necessary, it seems the thing must have been used for a catch-all for whatever scraps of glass and then about 3/16 inch raw resin poured in to secure the mess. Probably should have left it on the shelf, but nothing ventured , nothing gained. But oh well it has already been noted " I'm a glutton for punishment" Larry

It ain't the first time I've let my better sense go out the window, but we shall see how it goes. Will keep all informed of progress & pitfalls I get myself into so as to contribute to the "I shouldn't have done that ect." We'll see how it goes. Larry

Nothing else to do as the lake is on the rise so there goes my spring fishing!! Just thought I would share another fine mess I have gotten into, this tank which has been up on the very top shelf for ages just begged for some help and made nice for my m199, alas it wasn't so good & after much head scratching , decided I'll just cut you open & try to clean up all the stuff the PO,s have done over time; raw resin. pieces of fiberglass mat, & mostly done without proper cleaning, so hence not much bonded, so was impossible for me to get clean for a proper lining job. We'll see how it goes! Larry

Use a two wire kill switch, 1 to ground, 1 to coil/mag @ junction terminal. That's about all there is to it. Have a nice day Larry

I wonder if M49/M80 pegs & mounts could work for you also M85 Alpina ,same only longer pegs. Have a nice day Larry

Hi Peter Just happened to have a m199 piston handy, it measures 2.500 inches from the top EDGE of the piston to the bottom of the skirt on the inlet side. I have torn down several M199s & for the most part the exhaust side is the same as inlet. ( All have been Mahles) (my personal choice when available. Good fortune the Pursang pistons only need the boost port holes added. Larry

Try checking your Personal Message notification please.

I am really envious of all the M199B/ M198B bikes that are across the water from us as, I thought maybe I had found a M199B that was restorable , but alas I guess not. What a shame. Larry

Hello all, its been pretty dead here for a while, just thought maybe could pass on the latest to go through my old hands. M199 bottom end rebuild; rod and rod bearing new, true to .0005 thou mains 6205 C3 new, seals, O-rings new primary chain new. All back together. Have a nice day!! Larry

Bondy We have at this time easy access to non ethanol fuel , have not used anything but ever. Still don't have any luck with decals not coming off after a bit. Hope you continue to have good luck. Larry

Really like the m159 era air box as they are more substantial than the original plastic ones, I have also seen on a bike Scot Taco is building for his brother, one of the fiber glass m199 style air boxes & also on a local m199. Bondy I see that you have a nice LH brake pedal, now you will have better braking. What is your secret for non bubbling decals? Have a nice day Larry

Very nice, please check your E mail.

Gary, Don't know where you are located, but as stated above that looks pretty normal for a 2 stroke when it can exhaust directly onto a surface, if your silencer had a turned out end so it wouldn't blow straight as it is now , you probably wouldn't see such a mess. What mixture are you running? Does the bike run pretty good as is? The pipe itself is subject to a build up over time & needs cleaned out. I am not familiar with seal replacement on a TY, but its not fun on any brand. Have a nice day Larry

Sherpated, First off where are you located? There will be good advise found here, but it really helps if we know where you are. The OKO carbs generally are OK and only need a little tuning, when you say "same problem", is it rich (smokey/burbly) or lean (gasps or dies)?These conditions are pilot jet size usually/air screw 1 1/2 turns out +/- 1/2 turn. Be sure pilot circuit is clean, does the bike start/idle OK? New spark plug. Do you still have the original Bing? Larry ,