lbhbul

Good work Guy , it doesn't get much nicer sounding than that!! Best regards Larry

John, On the older m92 thru m151 there was not a stock provision for a head steady so the turn buckle was a means to an end at the time & is still there. As to riding the hi boy frames my experience is limited to mine & others of the same era, we felt whether true or perceived that we had the hot setup of the day! Keep her tight and enjoy. Larry

John, Yes , as the 325,s shook quite a bit & this was my comp bike at the time , it developed a crack in the front motor mount that I welded up and then made brackets to attach to the center front head bolt & to the frame gusset, turnbuckle attached and no more cracked motor mounts. As to whether the frames were popular, they were certainly lighter than the early m92 frame and as Greg says "bees knees" in their day, and its hard to beat chrome for maintaining the Bulls handsome look. If you ever ride one you'll understand. Here is a photo of a late m92 with the gusset as above. Did not check rake angle, but it clears the pipe & rides/feel very much like my m199. Larry

Having had some experience with Miller frames circa 1973, repaired several as they broke the front down tube @ the juncture of the straight line gusset @ top tube to down tube. The FIX to future frames was to cut a radius,(I used a gallon can for a template) to remove the stress riser caused by the original gusset. The frames were replaced and the broken ones ended up in my shop and gusset cut and down tube repaired, one of which is still in our possession. The next problem was cracking motor mounts which the crude turn buckle head steady solved. Standard head steadies not until M159. Funny thing about m125 ; only frame with straight line front gusset , m151 didn't. At least all that have been thru my hands Have a nice day, Larry

Welcome, and please tell us where you are. Starting w/Mikuni: choke lever down throttle closed, once started lever back up. Try to not call the shop as we are here to help you thru this. Larry

Don't worry about the old cond. wire, hook it back to the points or leave it behind the plate loose, it wont make any difference. Normal wires from mag, black/hot, green/ground Just put you new condenser under the tank grounded to the coil mount preferably (ground wherever) is handy, connect to black coil wire & black mag wire, it is that simple. Good luck Larry

Jonny, Welcome. The bike sounds good, very little clutch noise and is set up like I personally prefer,LH brake, RH shift. Handle bars need a cross brace, , if the owner has stock levers, get them,cant really see front wheel, but it is opposite to std. , front forks don't appear to be std.Fantic perhaps? Cant hazard a price sorry. Good luck Larry

Chefe, You are a magician!! The way you have wrapped the fiberglass on the Bull is remarkable!! This way I would think you have made a new tank with a plastic liner, I doubt there would any of the problems experienced with the stock/after market tanks. BRAVO!! Larry

Chefe, Very nice work!! I have to ask where did you come up with the rear fender?? Also welcome!! Where are you located?? Happy New Year to all!! Larry

If you cant adjust the clutch, it may well be the ball in the clutch actuator, if so you can try to get it out and replace it, however it is pretty easy to source a replacement. This one has a flat ball! Have you been able to get the pushrod out? Larry

The push rod & all are inside the transmission main shaft, if needed a cleaning rod for a .22 cal. rifle/pistol will go thru. fine. Larry

Herman, when you buy levers for the m191, in my experience Amal or their clones produce the best leverage for a nice 1 finger clutch pull when using a new cable and 4 clutch springs plus 4 Barnett plates. Good Luck Larry

Scott, as we discussed yesterday, if your kinda short cutting the "knee knocker" out of your way was a no brainer back in 1980. Merry Christmas to all!!! Larry

Herman, The m191 exhaust I believe uses the slip in manifold with springs to secure the pipe, the m85 is a 250cc & as stock utilizes a threaded collar, I am not sure of the dia. of the pipe but will measure a m92 stock pipe later and get back to you. Larry

BR , can you identify the #4 photo? Great photos BTW thanks!! Had this photo of my young friend , I believe the Texas National this spring. Looks mighty dry and slick, really need concentration and all the weight you can muster on the RH foot rest, plus good throttle control and a reliable steed at this point. The bike speaks for itself. Larry

If it has electronic ignition, I would guess it has been changed as M99 is a M92 Sherpa engine for the most if not all practical purposes, the mag flywheel is probably lighter however so one would assume points ignition and if so the condenser as Greg points out is most likely the culprit, if it has points, an automotive condenser mounted under the tank is an easy fix. If its electronic, then it is beyond my help. Good Luck Larry

Just a slight word to taming of the shrew, and what was and still is a 321 Gas Gas fix we have used and all the squish folks will not agree with, .100 head spacer with o-ring grooves certainly calmed things down and improved tractability, starting, and still all the hit required. This will work, try it you'll like it. Larry

Hi Chappo, I imagine it has an Amal carb?? What you are describing is a blocked pilot as Pigbog mentions, I am no help when it comes to Amals but if you have access to another carb??? As to seals; very unlikely in my experience. Have a nice day Larry

Herman, the Bing can be a hand full & expensive. For a 26mm mikuni , 100 main 40 pilot seems to be a good starting place.(alum. carb) We have an OKO 26mm on one 199, sorry don't know the jetting but it was used for Nationals this season. As Mike says above, you need the intake rubber that accepts both new carbs. Good luck Larry

Thanks to all, golden years are not what they are cracked up to be, enjoy life and assist when you can. Larry

Andy, if it runs better with the air screw all the way in, it very certainly needs a larger pilot jet, at present you have zero adjustment left. If the timing is correct; one would think lean mixture, go bigger on the pilot and this should help the whole mess. Good luck (don't fry the new build) Larry

Nothing new for me to add only my own opinions, Mahle whenever I can get them, nice that 350 pattern pistons work wherever, we have at present 85mm piston well worn in M199. Mahle pistons @ .0015 thousandths clearance, (finding a good bore man very important). When forced to run a forged piston .003 thousandths and let her rattle until warm , then OK but not as nice as a Mahle. Sadly getting near impossible to source a Mahle here anymore. Larry

Mark, my clutch arm is roughly 59mm between centers, I also had front brake lever that some Sherpa Ts' came with and it is around 75mm c/c. I believe the longer lever will work, however you might take a look at your front brake lever. Which ever you use, rig it so the cable pulls as straight as possible. The arm works best for me when setting as near perpendicular as possible. Have a nice day Larry

Well fellows , nothing going on huh??? Finished up the M125 ref,pg 11 this topic. Spit and polish, EQUALS happy FRIEND Larry

Stuart, Looking good, carry on and keep us posted. Interestingly we just machined a 166 cylinder ( standard bore) to match the deck height of a 199, we shall see how all that works out for the Sherpa T getting back to where it started bore wise. Some slight differences in port timing however the exhaust port came out within a few thousandths of the same. Intake will have a little more duration. At this point the thing starts nicely. The timing will be made correct before any carb tuning will take place. Stay tuned Have a good day Larry