blutaco

Thanks for the reply. I caved in and bought an electronic ignition kit but will still try to get to the root of the problem....at some point!

I'm looking help to diagnose a lack of spark from the stator on my 199A. I advanced the ignition, ran it for a few minutes then it wouldn't start again. There's a Red and green coming from the ignition coil with another shielded wire connected the points. From the points one black wire connects with the condenser and one with the HT coil. Previously, I could only get a spark by combining the red and black at the terminal (chocolate) block. That did seem a little odd as I would normally need just one wire from the points? Any pointers as to what to try next?

Perfect, Bondy. Just tried it with some old engine o rings triple wrapped around the clubfoot. Very tight fit. Thank you!

Can anyone tell me the best way to seal a 199a's exhaust and rear silencer joint. Is there any particular tape to use? Cheers...John

Thanks for that, Bult360. New old stock Model 10 crankshafts are still available, as I've found out. Might have to sell a kidney or two but the option is there. (A new crankshaft I mean!). I did suspect that the rod was not from a Model 10 when I looked at the parts list that Twinshock kindly supplied me with. Well, there is only one item in my letter to Santa...

I haven't actually asked Pete at Bultaco UK. I will now! The frame issue is now secondary, for the time being. Having a crisp sounding 4 speed engine running again would be a moral victory....

I'm happy to explore all options. I think I'll need a conrod kit too as the bushed small end does not apear to be standard. I'm wondering if the crankshaft is not from a Model 10? Does this guy have a website? John

That sounds interesting. I will investigate crankshaft repairs. Cheers Johb

Photos and measurements would be good, Larry. I'll concentrate on the engine first, though. Looks like I'll have source a crankshaft as the main bearings slip on and off far too easily. The conrod has a bushes small end instead of needle roller so it looks like the engine has been hastily put together with odds and sods and never fired up. Bit of a challenge, this young lady!

Thank you for this very encouraging reply. I have messaged you my email address. Any help is appreciated greatly. John

Ok. Sounds encouraging, TS. I'm in Scotland and not particularly mobile but photos would help. Even if I left the crankcases in situ, that would form some sort of jig for a frame builder to work to. When I was a young lad this is the sort of problem I had wise older heads to turn to. Thank God for the Internet!

You are confirming my fears, Woody! The poor thing has been butchered and I would like to give her my best shot. 'Parting out' is a crime so that's not an option. I acquired a M49 frame at the same time as it was suggested that it could be a dobor for the bottom rail but I could not do that to a good frame! This is turning into Challenge Aneka!

I've just acquired a 1966 Model 10 for restoration that has had its bottom frame loop sliced off and replaced with a skid plate. I'd really prefer to restore her to a good old fashioned bottom loop. The 4 speed engine of course has its third engine mount below the gearbox so at the moment all these 18 Bultaco HP's are suspended by 2 bolts only. Is a replacement frame (hen's teeth?) my only option here?

I'm hoping just to go to the first oversize for now but thanks for that Bondy. I take it Mahles are like hen's teeth now? Anyone know what Inmotion supplies?