Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About hoodie2

  • Rank

Previous Fields

  • Bike

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

5,183 profile views
  1. Finally the bike is running. To wrap this up for anyone else having similar problems: I had a local auto electrician look at it. At first he couldn't see anything wrong so decided to check out the stator output on his oscilloscope. He couldn't get a decent trace by just actuating the kick-start so tried driving the flywheel with a power drill. While doing this and monitoring the readout he noticed he was getting a spark. So it seems the reason the ignition would fire up on the Bradford Ignitions test rig but not on my bike was down to the speed of the rotor and the way I was checking for a spark. I had been holding the plug with one hand against the cylinder to earth and was cranking the kickstart with the other hand. I had no plug in the cylinder head so I wasn't working against compression. I've always checked for spark this way but is seems that on this bike this method doesn't generate enough speed or current to create a spark. Stick the plug back in the head, connect it up and give it a good hard kick and away it goes. Strange but true. Another lesson learned! Thanks to everyone who offered advice.
  2. Will do and thanks for the offer.
  3. Having not had a usable trials bike all summer I got so p****d off I stuck it on Gumtree. I've calmed down a bit now I'm persevering. I've tried everything I can think of and for most of this time I had removed the Kill switch. Took it to a local Auto electric engineer yesterday. He couldn't see anything wrong with the set up but is going to check all the output values for me with the system on the bike.
  4. As the schematic doesn't represent exactly what I'm looking at I'm wondering about the unfeatured brown wire from CDI to HT coil. The A/C in from the stator via the CDI to HT coil is red rather than the Black/White in the diagram. Is the Brown simply a ground that returns all the way from HT coil, through the CDI and back to ground on the mounting plate of the stator? If so does the HT coil not need a separate ground to the bike frame? Tried both and still no spark but just trying to understand the system better.
  5. Today I took the stator back off and checked it over again. Took the back plate off. checked the grounds soldered to the stator frame. Sanded and degreased all contact points on the stator mount and back plate and rebuilt with new clean screws. No difference. Cause I've run out of things to try I also tried refitting the kill switch and also grounding my earth strap to something external to the bike. Nothing!
  6. Looking at the diagram Billy posted again that's not how mine wires up. Mine has three inputs to the CDI from the stator, red, black & Brown. the outputs are red to the HT coil, black/white to a kill switch and brown to ground. This ground is usually connected to the same earth point as the HT coil which is a bracket on the radiator. I've set up a separate more secure ground as in my earlier picture.
  7. It's loose on the bike where I can see it but all insulated and soundly connected up. I have an earth strap to the frame that the CDI and HT coil are grounded to.
  8. This is defying logic now. I'm completely defeated! Stator, CDI and HT coil all tested again at Bradford ignitions and working fine. were compared with two other stators and performance was the same. Even listened to a spark clicking over a 15mm gap over the phone. re connected everything as in my earlier photos with sound connections and strong earth. Fitted a different flywheel. Not a spark. Is there anyway the stator plate fitting to the crankcase could have any effect on the stator output? Everything is reportedly working until I refit the stator plate onto the bike.
  9. Got another flywheel in the post so will try that and feedback. Seems unlikely but its the only thing that hasn't been repared, tested or replced.
  10. The output from G1 on kicking the bike over is only 3v. The stator has been rig tested again and tested alongside other rewound stators. It performed as it should. I'm confident in the wiring and the ground and the other components so am I looking at the Flywheel now?
  11. Thanks Billy....good to be looking at the right schematic at last.
  12. 2006 250cc. Its generating 30v red to ground which i'm told is indicative of a fault.
  13. Ok yellow regulator wire to multimeter + multimeter - to earth I can get 2.5 to 3 Volts AC to the regulator kicking it over. Don't know if this is useful or not but I repeated the same test with the red output from the stator through multimeter to earth and kicked it over. It would peak at 30v. I then did the same on the black trigger wire and couldn't get any reading. Any of that suggest anything? Cheers.
  14. As far as I know. Searched this site for timing and found a thread that showed a gap of 7.5 mm from the right edge of the stator mounting screw to the right hand end of the slot on the plate. Have tried other settings and it makes no difference.
  • Create New...