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hoodie2

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About hoodie2

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    hoodie2

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    Rev3

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    Argyll
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  1. Just to round this off I changed the stator and that sorted it. Could have saved myself some time and money if I knew how to use a multimeter properly. Every day's a school day!
  2. Swapped out the condenser and still no fan. Rechecked output from stator and was getting little or nothing. Checked the stator and found a clear break in the windings. Will swap out the stator and see if that sorts it.
  3. Replaced the rectifier and still only getting 3v dc and no fan. I'm now thinking the rectifier converts ac to dc but the condensor is whats boosting the voltage. Will have to try a known good condenser. Anyone know what value the fan capacitor should be? Might be able to test it at work with a better meter.
  4. Okay thanks for the help. I'll replace the rectifier and see how I get on.
  5. Also only have a cheap multimeter so not able to measure the fan condenser capacitance. On a 2k ohm resistance setting though the condenser will charge to open circuit on either polarity. I think that tells me the capaciter is good so I'm leaning towards thinking the rectifier is not giving me enough voltage dc. That sound reasonable?
  6. Output to the fan is 3v dc. That help?
  7. Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that bridging the thermostat wires makes no difference. The bike runs fine otherwise. What I'm wondering is do failures of the fan condenser and failures of the rectifier have different symptoms. I'm trying to eliminate one. The fan doesn't seem to activate at all. If it was just a condenser fault would I get the fan running intermittently?
  8. Hi....got an 06 SY250 with no fan. Fan works off a direct 12v battery feed but not from the bike's power supply. Wiring has been modified but looks okay and the ignition side is fine. Was thinking regulator for the fan but it looks like it has a rectifier and a capicitor in the circuit. Anyone know how to eliminate one or the other or which is most likely to be the culprit? Thanks in advance.
  9. hoodie2

    Cota 247C

    Hi I'm restoring a 1980 Cota 247C that came to me with the crankshaft broken at the counterweight keyway on the left hand side. Common enough problem. I managed to get a replacement LH half from Cyclesavant in the states. Before I get the assembly rebuilt with a new conrod kit I'd like to replace the ignition side half also, as the keyway and taper both have damage. So I'm looking for a decent ignition side half for a late model with the 20mm pin size. Part number is 2160.00803. Anybody got anything or know of a source either for a crank half or a crank assembly with a good usable ignition side? Any help much appreciated. Hoodie.
  10. Finally the bike is running. To wrap this up for anyone else having similar problems: I had a local auto electrician look at it. At first he couldn't see anything wrong so decided to check out the stator output on his oscilloscope. He couldn't get a decent trace by just actuating the kick-start so tried driving the flywheel with a power drill. While doing this and monitoring the readout he noticed he was getting a spark. So it seems the reason the ignition would fire up on the Bradford Ignitions test rig but not on my bike was down to the speed of the rotor and the way I was checking for a spark. I had been holding the plug with one hand against the cylinder to earth and was cranking the kickstart with the other hand. I had no plug in the cylinder head so I wasn't working against compression. I've always checked for spark this way but is seems that on this bike this method doesn't generate enough speed or current to create a spark. Stick the plug back in the head, connect it up and give it a good hard kick and away it goes. Strange but true. Another lesson learned! Thanks to everyone who offered advice.
  11. Will do and thanks for the offer.
  12. Having not had a usable trials bike all summer I got so p****d off I stuck it on Gumtree. I've calmed down a bit now I'm persevering. I've tried everything I can think of and for most of this time I had removed the Kill switch. Took it to a local Auto electric engineer yesterday. He couldn't see anything wrong with the set up but is going to check all the output values for me with the system on the bike.
  13. As the schematic doesn't represent exactly what I'm looking at I'm wondering about the unfeatured brown wire from CDI to HT coil. The A/C in from the stator via the CDI to HT coil is red rather than the Black/White in the diagram. Is the Brown simply a ground that returns all the way from HT coil, through the CDI and back to ground on the mounting plate of the stator? If so does the HT coil not need a separate ground to the bike frame? Tried both and still no spark but just trying to understand the system better.
  14. Today I took the stator back off and checked it over again. Took the back plate off. checked the grounds soldered to the stator frame. Sanded and degreased all contact points on the stator mount and back plate and rebuilt with new clean screws. No difference. Cause I've run out of things to try I also tried refitting the kill switch and also grounding my earth strap to something external to the bike. Nothing!
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