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Everything posted by hoodie2

  1. Just to round this off I changed the stator and that sorted it. Could have saved myself some time and money if I knew how to use a multimeter properly. Every day's a school day!
  2. Swapped out the condenser and still no fan. Rechecked output from stator and was getting little or nothing. Checked the stator and found a clear break in the windings. Will swap out the stator and see if that sorts it.
  3. Replaced the rectifier and still only getting 3v dc and no fan. I'm now thinking the rectifier converts ac to dc but the condensor is whats boosting the voltage. Will have to try a known good condenser. Anyone know what value the fan capacitor should be? Might be able to test it at work with a better meter.
  4. Okay thanks for the help. I'll replace the rectifier and see how I get on.
  5. Also only have a cheap multimeter so not able to measure the fan condenser capacitance. On a 2k ohm resistance setting though the condenser will charge to open circuit on either polarity. I think that tells me the capaciter is good so I'm leaning towards thinking the rectifier is not giving me enough voltage dc. That sound reasonable?
  6. Output to the fan is 3v dc. That help?
  7. Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that bridging the thermostat wires makes no difference. The bike runs fine otherwise. What I'm wondering is do failures of the fan condenser and failures of the rectifier have different symptoms. I'm trying to eliminate one. The fan doesn't seem to activate at all. If it was just a condenser fault would I get the fan running intermittently?
  8. Hi....got an 06 SY250 with no fan. Fan works off a direct 12v battery feed but not from the bike's power supply. Wiring has been modified but looks okay and the ignition side is fine. Was thinking regulator for the fan but it looks like it has a rectifier and a capicitor in the circuit. Anyone know how to eliminate one or the other or which is most likely to be the culprit? Thanks in advance.
  9. hoodie2

    Cota 247C

    Hi I'm restoring a 1980 Cota 247C that came to me with the crankshaft broken at the counterweight keyway on the left hand side. Common enough problem. I managed to get a replacement LH half from Cyclesavant in the states. Before I get the assembly rebuilt with a new conrod kit I'd like to replace the ignition side half also, as the keyway and taper both have damage. So I'm looking for a decent ignition side half for a late model with the 20mm pin size. Part number is 2160.00803. Anybody got anything or know of a source either for a crank half or a crank assembly with a good usable ignition side? Any help much appreciated. Hoodie.
  10. Finally the bike is running. To wrap this up for anyone else having similar problems: I had a local auto electrician look at it. At first he couldn't see anything wrong so decided to check out the stator output on his oscilloscope. He couldn't get a decent trace by just actuating the kick-start so tried driving the flywheel with a power drill. While doing this and monitoring the readout he noticed he was getting a spark. So it seems the reason the ignition would fire up on the Bradford Ignitions test rig but not on my bike was down to the speed of the rotor and the way I was checking for a spark. I had been holding the plug with one hand against the cylinder to earth and was cranking the kickstart with the other hand. I had no plug in the cylinder head so I wasn't working against compression. I've always checked for spark this way but is seems that on this bike this method doesn't generate enough speed or current to create a spark. Stick the plug back in the head, connect it up and give it a good hard kick and away it goes. Strange but true. Another lesson learned! Thanks to everyone who offered advice.
  11. Will do and thanks for the offer.
  12. Having not had a usable trials bike all summer I got so p****d off I stuck it on Gumtree. I've calmed down a bit now I'm persevering. I've tried everything I can think of and for most of this time I had removed the Kill switch. Took it to a local Auto electric engineer yesterday. He couldn't see anything wrong with the set up but is going to check all the output values for me with the system on the bike.
  13. As the schematic doesn't represent exactly what I'm looking at I'm wondering about the unfeatured brown wire from CDI to HT coil. The A/C in from the stator via the CDI to HT coil is red rather than the Black/White in the diagram. Is the Brown simply a ground that returns all the way from HT coil, through the CDI and back to ground on the mounting plate of the stator? If so does the HT coil not need a separate ground to the bike frame? Tried both and still no spark but just trying to understand the system better.
  14. Today I took the stator back off and checked it over again. Took the back plate off. checked the grounds soldered to the stator frame. Sanded and degreased all contact points on the stator mount and back plate and rebuilt with new clean screws. No difference. Cause I've run out of things to try I also tried refitting the kill switch and also grounding my earth strap to something external to the bike. Nothing!
  15. Looking at the diagram Billy posted again that's not how mine wires up. Mine has three inputs to the CDI from the stator, red, black & Brown. the outputs are red to the HT coil, black/white to a kill switch and brown to ground. This ground is usually connected to the same earth point as the HT coil which is a bracket on the radiator. I've set up a separate more secure ground as in my earlier picture.
  16. It's loose on the bike where I can see it but all insulated and soundly connected up. I have an earth strap to the frame that the CDI and HT coil are grounded to.
  17. This is defying logic now. I'm completely defeated! Stator, CDI and HT coil all tested again at Bradford ignitions and working fine. were compared with two other stators and performance was the same. Even listened to a spark clicking over a 15mm gap over the phone. re connected everything as in my earlier photos with sound connections and strong earth. Fitted a different flywheel. Not a spark. Is there anyway the stator plate fitting to the crankcase could have any effect on the stator output? Everything is reportedly working until I refit the stator plate onto the bike.
  18. Got another flywheel in the post so will try that and feedback. Seems unlikely but its the only thing that hasn't been repared, tested or replced.
  19. The output from G1 on kicking the bike over is only 3v. The stator has been rig tested again and tested alongside other rewound stators. It performed as it should. I'm confident in the wiring and the ground and the other components so am I looking at the Flywheel now?
  20. Thanks Billy....good to be looking at the right schematic at last.
  21. 2006 250cc. Its generating 30v red to ground which i'm told is indicative of a fault.
  22. Ok yellow regulator wire to multimeter + multimeter - to earth I can get 2.5 to 3 Volts AC to the regulator kicking it over. Don't know if this is useful or not but I repeated the same test with the red output from the stator through multimeter to earth and kicked it over. It would peak at 30v. I then did the same on the black trigger wire and couldn't get any reading. Any of that suggest anything? Cheers.
  23. As far as I know. Searched this site for timing and found a thread that showed a gap of 7.5 mm from the right edge of the stator mounting screw to the right hand end of the slot on the plate. Have tried other settings and it makes no difference.
  24. I was thinking that myself but the flywheel seems to be magnetised in that it will attract and hold steel tools. I cleaned it with brake/carb cleaner today and also cleaned up the coil pick ups to make sure they weren't compromised by conformal coating from the rewind. Could it be magnetic but weakened? It definitely seems like the stator works on a test rig and the resistance values are okay but when I fit it to the bike I'm not generating any current. Can anyone tell me how I'd measure output from the stator with the multimeter while kicking it over?
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