hoodie2

Ok yellow regulator wire to multimeter + multimeter - to earth I can get 2.5 to 3 Volts AC to the regulator kicking it over. Don't know if this is useful or not but I repeated the same test with the red output from the stator through multimeter to earth and kicked it over. It would peak at 30v. I then did the same on the black trigger wire and couldn't get any reading. Any of that suggest anything? Cheers.

As far as I know. Searched this site for timing and found a thread that showed a gap of 7.5 mm from the right edge of the stator mounting screw to the right hand end of the slot on the plate. Have tried other settings and it makes no difference.

I was thinking that myself but the flywheel seems to be magnetised in that it will attract and hold steel tools. I cleaned it with brake/carb cleaner today and also cleaned up the coil pick ups to make sure they weren't compromised by conformal coating from the rewind. Could it be magnetic but weakened? It definitely seems like the stator works on a test rig and the resistance values are okay but when I fit it to the bike I'm not generating any current. Can anyone tell me how I'd measure output from the stator with the multimeter while kicking it over?

No spark at all Billy. Couldn't even give myself a shock if I tried. To reiterate: ht coil, lead, plug cap and plug are new. CDI is new. Ground as in picture made to frame and is solid. Wiring stripped and inspected. Connectors removed and connections temporarily re made. Timing set at 7.5mm Flywheel clean and magnets seem fine.

I hate drinking out of a camelback but found quite a neat bum bag that carries a cycle dinks bottle. You get lots of that kind of equipment for distance and hill runners.

do you mean an earth external to the bike? I had already created a new earth to a lug on the frame which hasn't helped. Also now removed all connectors and re joined the wires without any improvement.

The whole lot went to Motoplat so all wiring and connectors seem to be okay. I've stripped the outer sleeve off the harness from the stator and found no damage or shorts. Going to have replace all connectors next.

Never been this stumped before and out of ideas now! Hoping someone's come across this and can help. Problem started about three months ago. Bike died while out practicing. walked a section, came back and it wouldn't start. Suspected the stator so fired it off to Steve Hardaker of Motoplat UK for a test and/or rewind. Got it back rewound but still no spark. Removed kill switch, checked HT coil ground, and wiring. all seemed fine so assumed the CDI was my problem and bought a new one. still nothing. bought new coil, plug cap and plugs. No difference. Started doubting the stator fix so contacted Steve again. he kindly said he would test the whole system on his test rig if I sent off the CDI and coil with the Stator. Sent it off and Steve came back saying all was good and the system was firing up a spark on his rig. Got everything back and fitted it to the bike today with no kill switch and a new earth strap bolted to the frame at the bracket for the cylinder mount. connected this earth strap to the CDI ground and the HT coil and hooked everything else up. No spark! Asked Steve whether the regulator or flywheel could be the source of the problem and he said no, the regulator wouldn't affect the ignition side, as I expected. Why would the system work on his test rig but not on my bike?

I'm measuring without the plug cap. I found a crack in the plastic case, thought about an epoxy patch and then just decided to order a new one. Nobody close by I could borrow a coil from. Cheers.

Just had my stator rewound thanks. It's actually the HT coil I'm now looking at. I'm pretty sure its bad but was hoping someone could confirm.

Hi....Can't seem to find a definitive answer on ignition coil resistance values for the rev3. seen 3 & 10000 ohms quoted but also saw a test for a leonelli coil suggesting 0.6 & 11k. Testing mine I'm getting 0.6 ohms on the primary and 4,500 ohms on the secondary. Can anyone tell me if this is out of spec? Thanks in advance.

Anyone been using one of these and got any feedback on them. Always liked small bikes (favourite bike was a rev3 200) and fancy the wee Scorpa but never seen one in the flesh. Something I can use on the road, hill tracks and trial would be ideal for me. It's always described as a beginners bike but would it work for a 55 year old Non Expert? So is the build quality good, any experiences to cause concern with the motor and is it going to pull 13 stone up a steep hill? If not is a 143cc barrel worthwhile or has anyone other suggestions for improving them. I know Nigel Birkett's been working on them but not sure what he's been up to?

Clutch finally operational. The problem did turn out to be wear in the bore of the master cylinder. Replacing the seals wasn't enough. Replaced the MC and hydraulic pressure restored.

The saga continues. The system has bled okay now but I still have not enough pressure to activate the clutch. The piston in the slave cylinder is moving when detached from the motor but doesn't seem to be activating when bolted on. I seem to have some fluid leaking past the new seals in the master cylinder so now wondering if the bore of the cast housing could be worn. Anyone come across this?

Had the hose off at the MC end. tried activating the plunger/piston with a screwdriver and initially got no fluid movement. After a few attempts I started to see fluid coming from the outlet. The only seals I have are the two on the MC piston. None on the hose to MC joint or inside the MC housing. Maybe I wasn't getting the full range of movement on the piston stroke.

Just looked at a Grimeca clutch MC seal kit online. It had the usual boot for the plunger and the reservoir top seal plus another round seal. Where does that round seal go as I haven't come across one in my set up? Cheers.

Clutch still won't bleed. stripped master cylinder ultrasonically cleaned it and then blew compressed air through. Checked fluid transfer with brake cleaner and confirmed all ports open. installed new MC seal kit. checked no blockage in hose. stripped slave cylinder and cleaned. seals looked okay so rebuilt with rubber grease. Pushed piston fully in and filled with fluid. rebuilt whole system with new banjo washers. System will still not bleed from either direction and I have no hydraulic pressure. When reverse bleeding with a large syringe I just hit solid pressure and the fluid will not move through into the MC. Eventually I either get leakage through the bleed nipple or the pressure blows my connecting tube off the nipple. Trying to bleed from the top I can only move fluid to about a cm from the nipple and no further. Thinking to eliminate them I now need to replace the banjo bolt and bleed nipple and put a new seal kit in the slave cylinder. Anything else I might be missing?

MC is clean and new seal kit installed. Going to try and replace the seals in the slave cylinder and then rebuild and try bleeding again.

Thanks for the suggestions. Gave it a go but still not managing to get any pressure. Is the slave cylinder serviceable? I'm assuming there's a piston seal and wondering if that could be goosed.

Hi All my clutch is driving me insane! Had the bike stripped, (06 rev3), with the engine out and the clutch hose disconnected at the slave cylinder. Since I've reassembled I can't get the clutch to generate any hydraulic pressure. Got new master cylinder seal kit installed, checked tightness on all connections, replaced banjo bolt washers and tried bleeding every way I can think of. Can't seem to get fluid to flow through freely on reverse bleeding. I think i'm getting air drawn in somewhere but have no sign of fluid leaking out. when I try to draw fluid through from the bottom with a syringe the bubbles go on forever. Thought the bleed screw was the problem but tried another spigot I had and still the same. Do the slave cylinders on these things fail and need replaced? Any suggestions as to where to go next much appreciated. Cheers.

Hope it's not but could be failed head gasket causing the cooling system to become over pressurised. This would cause engine compression to pump fluid out and would cause more than a little spitting though.

Perfect. Thats what I was looking for. Thanks.

Thanks. I've registered trials bikes before so I know the general drill. Just not sure how the process differs if your bike will be mot and tax exempt. Can you register just with a dating letter and nova certificate?

Got a 71 M80 Bultaco Sherpa project on the go. If I want to register it with an age related page I'm thinking I'm best to do it before restoration so that it is clearly original. As it's over 40 years old it should be tax and MOT exempt but can you register the bike without these or do you still need them for first registration? Cheers.

Thanks for all the advice. Looks like I've a few options. Will probably start trying to remember who I know with a lathe! Cheers.