hoodie2

The kickstart pawl has some wear on a couple of teeth. Theyre worn down on one side and no longer square. I think the bike has had a lot of schoolboy use. it's an 06. When my mate bought it he had the crank rebuilt and new mains and seals. He thought it had been a 125 that had a 200 kit fitted. It's since had a new piston kit and is on a size D piston. I think it's just well used and now needing a thorough gearbox rebuild.

Thanks for the excellent advice. Pulled the clutch and sure enough the idle gear looks pretty rough. Is it recommended to change the idle gear and kickstart pawl together? the teeth on the pawl don't look broken, but then without a new one to compare I can't tell if they're too badly worn. Thought this might save splitting the cases but the main shaft seems to have play in the bearing and the plastic kickstart stop is broken, so it looks like a full rebuild with new gearbox bearing kit. When I pulled the clutch the two bearings came out and dropped needles. If the bearings are in good condition should the needles stay captive and is this an indication that the bearings are shot, or are they always loose in the cage? Cheers

Help! Got a, mates 200 pro which suddenly started making hellish engine noise. He thought top end. Pulled it apart, mains and small & big end fine. Bore good. Stuck new size d piston set in. Clean carb & filter. Fired it up and still sounds s#*@e. I'm suspicious of clutch/ kick start/gearbox. Noise sounds like a knocking to me. It doesn't go away when you pull the clutch in, or under load, but does get slightly quieter. More dwarf than normal on the drain plug. What's the most likely culprit ? Also should there be any movement in the bush when I try to rock the whole clutch assembly? Cheers.

Brilliant! Thanks very much for your help. Need to find myself some 40lb springs now.

Here are the details for the springs I have; the wire is 6mm, it has 12 coils and the spring is 55mm. Does this help anyone to identify if these are 50lb or 40lb springs? If it turns out I've got 50lb ones I'll try contacting trail & trials and see if they can supply loose springs. Cheers Hoodie.

Brilliant. Cheers. How/where would I contact John Cane?

Hi. I have a 76 TL125 that came with new 360mm Betor gas shocks. I think the springs may be the 50lbs ones and am wondering if I can source the lighter ones somewhere. With the pre load on the lightest setting and all the Gas released they still feel stiff. I'm about 80kg in gear. Is there any way to tell which springs they are and does someone in the UK sell just the springs? Cheers

Hi. Looking at an MH200 for restoration. It has the fibreglass tank and I was wondering if it would be prone to damage from modern fuels. I can't see any sign of leaking or damage. Is it possible that by this time they would have used an epoxy resin that would not be affected by the ethanol or is it likely that this tank will need to be lined for ethanol protection. Cheers

Thanks Dan. I'm sticking with my Rev 3 so will go back to looking at the original mudguards.

I need a new front mudguard for my 06 rev 3 and was thinking about using an evo one, with the integrated bracket. Has anyone tried this or can anyone confirm that the bracket for the Evo part has the same mounting hole spacing as the rev 3 and will fit on the 06 paoli forks, giving the right wheel clearance? Thanks. Hoodie.

Thanks TLTEL. I would have got on better if I'd thought it through rather than blindly following bad advice. Bike's running now. Turned the cam shaft 180 degrees, to where it was. Als remembered that the cam had been seperated from the advance retard and had been put back 180 out also. Now I'm off to see if I can get the carb running clean. Got standard carb and 143cc barrell. Am I likely to need a re jet? Cheers.

Working on an old TL which I got as a non runner. Rebuilt it and now trying to get her to run. I set the valve timing as per a post on here, which said the marks should be lined up when the camshaft is lying with the cam lobes to the top. This involved rotating the cam sprocket 180 degrees from where it was, so I was assuming that the previous owner had set the timing wrong. Now I'm not sure. can someone confirm if this is correct. I've got a new plug, points and plug gaps at standard, points timing retarded a couple of mm and am getting a good spark. What would be the best starting set up on the carb for air screw and needle clip position? . Thanks for any help offered. Cheers

Be interested to know if you manage to get in touch. I've made email enquiries and not heard back. Not sure if he's still doing TL bits. Cheers

Just to follow this up; had to go with trial and error. Removed the lighting coil and insulated the the free end that used to connect the two coils. Result - no spark. Tried taking the free end and bolting it to the now spare mounting point for the lighting coil, to get it to earth. Result - sparks. I havent actually run the bike yet as there is more work to be done, but I'm hopeful that this set up will work.

Thanks TLTEL. from the LT coil there is a black wire comes from one end of the winding and goes to the loom. I'm assuming this is the feed for the HT coil. From the other end of the winding is another wire in braided, uncoloured insulatio. It goes to the lighting coil. It already has a soldered connection in the middle. If I seperate the coils here I don't know what to do with the free end. As you say I could just try it and see what happens, but thought someone would know how to complete the job. Cheers Hoodie.

My first bike was a 76 TL125 when I was 15. Sold it about 30 years ago and by sheer luck just discovered it again and was able to get it back. I'm modifying it for trials and doing the things I didnt have the know how, or cash to do as a boy. Eventually I hope to get a highboy frame for it. If anyone has one I'd be interested. Meantime I'm stripping the extra wiring as I don't need lights. I was going to remove the lighting coil, but what do I do with the wire that connects the ignition coil to the lighting coil? can it just be cut and left as a dead end or do I need to do more than that to maintain a functioning ignition circuit? Thanks in advance for any help offered. Cheers.

Hi here's a couple of links to the mods i was referring to; http://bps-eng.pagesperso-orange.fr/photo/Kit%20Pro%20Tank%20and%20seat.jpg http://bps-eng.pagesperso-orange.fr/html/kit_pro1.htm Be good to see a bike built up with all the parts.

Has anyone bought any of the kit pro parts for a TL125, from BPS-eng in France, or got any experience of them? I've seen them on the web and the mods look good, but don't know if they're even still trading. Want to renovate an old TL without being able to stretch to an SM high boy frame and accessories. Cheers.

Hi I'm trying to find out how to test the secondary winding of the ignition coil. The manual helpfully just says to test it. I've tried a multimeter set for resistance,with the red lead on to the HT lead end, (cap off)and the black to earth and got no reading. but when I tried this on a new coil I still got no reading, so assuming somethings not right. Continuity on the HT line seems fine. Any ideas? Basic problem is no spark. Cheers

Been thinking about trying the bike, (06 4rt), without the middle restrictor in. looks like I won't get it out without wrecking the grey cylindrical seal that sits in front of it though. Looked at the 05 parts list and couldnt see this part mentioned. Are they easy to get hold of? I was also wondering how the restrictor works as it doesn't look like a smaller bore. Does it effectively increase the length of the front pipe at the same diameter and if so what effect does that have. Just wondering if removing it will help torque or top end. Cheers Hoodie.

I wouldnt bother going for the repsol rep unless you love the look of it.I got an 06 4rt last year and got stuck into setting it up right for me. new 09 plastics tarted it up nicely. I've tried a few mods and now have found a set up that I like and that i think would suit a novice. I'd recomend keeping the suspension stock, with only minor adjustment on the rebound, both ends, for fine tuning. I tried lift plates on the linkage and didnt think i gained much, so reverted back. On an older bike, like mine, the clutch needs fixing. New plates and the larger master cylinder and ELF etx have given me the best clutch I've ever had. The gearing I agree is best at 9/43, having tried different combinations. I've taken the front restrictor out of the exhaust and left the others in and stuck an after market air filter in. The standard throttle body and map is fine and with the other mods gives a fine power curve for a novice. The bike is smooth and soft at the bottom and and has enough power without being fiery, from there on. Theyre great bikes for personalising and many of the second hand ones have been pampered.

I think it would help if there was a seperate class and award for pre 65 in Scotland. We have the championship but it's lumped in with the twinshocks. They need to be able to compete like for like and not against the likes of Alan Crayk, Neil Dawson & Brian Nichol on very capable twinshocks. Also the class runs with the schoolboy classes which affects the style of sections. Maybe the support championship could cater for the over 40's, Twin shock, pre 65 and clubman championships and the Schoolboys could run with the experts and sportsmen. Don't know how that would affect the numbers though.

233 people have viewed this post and nobody appears to have an answer, so thought I'd try re wording the question. My problem with the side stand bracket is a common one, I think. The weight of the bike on the stand opens up the bend in the bracket so that the bike is lent over too far. To compound this the stand swings too far forward, making the angle all wrong and causing the bike to topple. This happens because the bracket has nothing to stop the stand extending too far. I'm thinking I could get a web welded on to the bracket to stop it bending and have the plate built up with weld to stop the over extension. If the current brackets are better and these problems have been solved then I'd maybe buy a new bracket instead. So the question is; have these issues been improved on the stands now used? Cheers.

Hi. Got an 06 4rt with a crap stand, or at least the bracket is rubbish. Are the recent ones any better or am I as well trying to modify the one I have? Cheers.