hoodie2

That's what I thought. Just wondering if anyone's tried them and found a difference or if they are just as effective as the Jitsie ones.I've changed to a 9 tooth gearbox sprocket already. Cheers

I've been checking out threads on clutch improvements having just got a very stock 06 4rt. I've stuck the larger master cylinder on and the clutch is more progressive, but I still find the bike still carries too much momentum with the clutch disengaged. I think ther'es still enough friction for a little drive to be left and I have to kill it with the brakes. Would the dimpled steel clutch plates help this? I can't find anyone selling the Jitsie ones but have seen Apico ones. Are they any good or am I better looking for Jitsie ones, in which case any ideas who has them? Cheers.

Thanks for the help. Looks like Msport can offer the best deal.Been in touch with Mike there, who's been really helpful. Cheers Hoodie.

Been looking at improvement threads on here for the 4rt. Lots of people saying that the propgrammable throttle body is the single best mod you can make. When I enquired about it at Sandifords I was quoted

Thanks for the info John. I've hardly done any events for years and this year fancied trying to get organised to complete a whole series. Unfortunately when the dates came out I realised I'm in Spain when Craiglash is on, so I've fallen at the first hurdle!

Anyone know how the Scottish support championship scoring works this year. The regs say a maximum of 8 rounds with 7 results counting, but there's only 7 rounds on the calendar. Does that mean every round counts, or is another round likely to be added? Cheers

I knew the actuating lever would need replaced to accomodate the cable pull. I've also looked at TYZ pictures. The cable is routed accross the cases from right to left. The exhaust on the TYZ looks like it didnt leave any more clearance than the Scorpa does. I think the crucial thing might be will the scorpa case accept the cable & adjuster.

Been messing around with the clutch on my 07 Sy250. Never seem to be able to get it adjusted right and hate the set up with master and slave cylinder. Has anyone tried to revert to the original cable operated clutch, as was used on the Yam TYZ. As I remember it was a really light clutch. Would it be a straightforward mod or are the original fixtures on the Yamaha case not the same as on the Scorpa now. Am I forgetting the benefits of a hydraulic clutch and is a half decent hydraulic system still better than a good cable system? What do you think?

you, get them done here also; http://billetparts.co.uk/catalog/product_i...products_id=104 Cheers Hoodie.

Thanks Wayne. I dont suppose you make them do you? Cheers.

Hi All. Can anyone tell me if the steering stem thread size changed over the years. I have a stem with lowered alloy bottom yokes. I have a steel adjuster & top nut but they dont seem to fit although the threads all look fine. Could the thread pitch be mismatched? Any help appreciated, as always. Cheers. Hoodie.

I've only heard of this being remedied by removing the triangular back box and either living without it or replacing with a clubfoot. In their day I think it was normal to take the triangular box off as it was known to stifle performance. My M92 frame had been modified when I got it, with a lug for a clubfoot added for this reason.

Hi all. Been collecting parts for my M92 project. I thought I had got a suitable rear wheel and brake plate, but now that I've checked I've got mismatched parts. The hub came from an m92, apparently, but it has bearing holders at 41.8mm ( must be for 42mm od bearing) and the bearing id seems to be 15mm. I have a brake plate that takes a 17mm spindle and I have a 17mm spindle that is about 260mm total length, with the 17mm section for 220mm of the length. The swinging arm is from an m92 frame and it has spindle slots with a height of about 17mm. If I measure it from the outside of one spidndle slot to the other it comes to about 195mm. So it looks like the frame needs a shorter 17mm spindle, the brake plate is okay, but the hub either needs replaced, or modified to take a different bearing, to allow for the 17mm id. I was thinking that someone must have worked through something like this before, so any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers.

Thanks very much for the help. When I checked out Woody's link there was a big saving on the tapered bearings, so I've gone for those. Cheers Hoodie.

can anyone tell me what size ball bearings would fit the original steering head bearings of an M92? Building up from bits and want to reduce costs and re use the standard bearings for now, but the balls are missing. Also what mods are needed to accomodate tapered needle roller bearings? Cheers Hoodie

I have a late 60's early 70's front wheel, with the hub that is the diameter of the brake drum, both sides. I need a brake plate for this and wondered if this hub needs the plate with the cable guide and the rear facing brake arm, or can later plates be used in this hub? Cheers.

That one looks like it should have the non lowered steel bottom yoke. That would match up with the knurling. My fork tubes are tapered at the top and the knurling starts 200mm from the top. I just need to know which triple clamp I need for an M92 frame and these tubes. Will any lowered bottom yoke work with the right top yoke for the tapers, or are there a range of diferent bottom yokes?

Hi. I have a couple of question relating to my M92 project. I'm putting together an exhaust system for an M92. It needs the smaller square flange for the square 325 barrell. Are the pipes that fit the two flange sizes different or do they both take the same pipe diameter? I can get my hands on a later exhaust that has the larger flange welded on. If I ground this off would the pipe fit inside a smaller flange? Also I have a set of forks. the stanchions are tapered at the tope and have knurling 200mm from the top. I need a set of triple clamps with the lowered alloy bottom yoke. I was wondering if they are all the same or if there are different sizes on some models. I know any set with lowered bottom yoke will probably be fine, but I'd like the bottom yokes to match to the position of the knurling on the stanchions. Cheers Hoodie.

Dave did you have to cut the old expansion chamber off or did you have seperates to start with? If you did cut it were you left with enough pipe to fit inside the new middle box? Thanks for the help. hoodie.

I have a one peice pipe and mid box from a mid to late 70s sherpa 250. It has the square flange and retaining spring fitting, although the pipe has been welded to the flange. The mid box sounds rough as hell and I can hear things rattling about in there, so it's probably shot. For my M92, which would have had a three peice exhaust, I'm wondering if i can cut the mid box off and fit a new one, in the style of the original . Also wondering how the attachment would work. Does the pipe need to slot into the mid box, with the rubber coupling over the top, or does the rubber bridge a gap between the two? Does anyone make a mid box designed for replacing this part of a one peice unit? Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers.

For my M92 project I have the offer of a barely used Dellorto, from a 2003 Gas Gas pro 300. I havent got it to measure yet but I think the spiggot OD is 31mm. Does anyone know if this is right and what carb rubber I need to fit to the two stud amal fitting? Does anyone in the UK sell a rubber for an amal to dellorto conversion? Cheers Hoodie.

Just to finish this thread; thanks to this forum I got an offer of an M92 engine, that has a number only 168 from the frame number, which I'm very grateful for. Looks like the project's on now. Cheers

Thanks Woody. I spoke with Pete at Bultaco uk and he was of the same opinion. Looks like I'm looking for an engine or at least a bottom end for a 250 or a 325 from 1971-1975. If anybody has anything they are getting rid of that might suit could you let me know by PM. Cheers and thanks again for the advice.

Hi Woody and anyone else who wants to chip in! I

Thanks Woody. That's been a big help. I've got a much better idea what I'm looking for now. On the 325; When the internal changes to crank etc. came in in 75/76 did the cases change too or will those cranks gearboxes fit older cases? Thanks again for the help. Cheers.