hoodie2

I noticed on Woody Holes test of the four stroke Scorpa in T&MX that he said he had it on good authority, i.e. Birkett told him, that the sy250 will have a "clear update" soon. Anyone heard any details and do you think they'll do anything radical to frame or engine, or just tinker with set up?

the brakes are pretty standard with AJP calipers/master cylinders etc. and braking discs. I think there is an improved disc on the front of the 06 models, but there is'nt too much wrong with the originals. What exactly are your brakes doing or not doing that is causing you problems?

my mate bought about five of them from www.scottishtrial.com. They worked out about

the guys that I ride with all use Hebo auxilliary fuel tanks fitted behind their front number plates. This gives us extra range when out on the moors. I didn't notice anyone using one in the SSDT and wondered if they are not permitted by the trial regulations. Anyone know?

My old man always told me "if it aint broke don't fix it," but i never have managed to stick to this. I can't resist trying to improve and simplify things. It's a personal preference, but having completed the job; the wiring is neater, more accessible and each component more easily identified. The bike is running well and I now know my way around it a lot better. If anyone else is thinking about simplifying the wiring I've attached a photo from birkett's that should help. It shows the connections you should be left with after you've stripped the wiring harness. Contrary to another post elsewhere you do have to retain the condenser or your fan will cut out at high revs. The plug with black/red connections goes to the condenser and the other to the fan.

Just to be clear what I,m asking; this is the "condensor/smoother," as it's described in the parts book, that sits next to the air box, rather than the regulator which sits on the frame behind the CDI. It has one black & one red wire connected. A previous post stated that this is a capacitor for the lights only and that it can be removed. So is this wrong and do I need to keep this condensor unit in the system or is it just the regulator I need to worry about? Cheers.

I'm just stripping the lights on my 04 sy250. Is the regulator the black cylindrical unit that clips on the sub frame? Would be much easier sorting this with a wiring diagram but I couldnt find anyone who had one. Cheers.

before I start stripping things unecesarily I was wondering if the bottom shock mount on an sy 250 needs any maintenance. Does it run on bushes that need greased or does it not require greasing. I can't figure out if the shock rotates on the mounting bolt or if it stays static. Any advice appreciated.

If you mean the drain plug, mine's the same. I was going to try taking the sump plate off and filing the faces of the hex head until they fit the next metric socket size down, which I think will be 11mm. If anyone has a better idea I'd love to hear it. Good luck anyway.

I was thinking about replacing the mudguard on my 04 sy 250. It annoys me that the coating is all coming off. Why paint white on top of white plastic? Anyway are all the sy mudguards painted or are some coloured plastic? Also which bar end plugs fit the standard bars? Thanks for the help.

I'm rebuilding an 01 GG 280, new mains, seals, rings and small end. The bore looks in good condition, but has lost a small flake of chrome below the exhaust port. This tiny fragment looks like it has got lodged in the piston. It looks like it has been there a while and has caused no further damage. My dilema is do I rebuild it as it is or do I need a new piston. Am I right in thinking the small flake off the lining is not a big problem. It otherwise looks great with the cross hatchings still clear and not polished off. What do you think? Thanks.

Thanks for the advice. I was also wondering if new plastics come stickered up or without decals. The reason being I wanted to know if you can mix and match by fitting an 06 rear mudguard with the original 03 decals. Cheers.

I'm not sure when they introduced the top access for the air filter and wondered if an o6 rear mudguard would fit straight onto an 03 model. Is it the same moulding, fittings etc. Ta.

I reckon that if the 250 has enough power for Steve Saunders then it probably has too much for most of us. Maybe the 200 is the right bike for most intermediate riders, if we could be confident that it could handle most hill climbs and moderate steps.

I agree, it's good to get detailed feedback on the new models and the original post here was very useful. I noticed from the picture that the decals from the frame, where your boots rub, have been removed. Did they come off easily?

I noticed that on John Lampkins site the 200 is quoted as weighing 71kg rather than 72kg for the 250/270. I always thought the 200 was heavier because of the cylinder liner. Anybody know why it's lighter or whether there are any changes to this years 200? Cheers.

2.8 litres of fuel and immersing your electrics wont get you far in the Scottish.I suppose if your bikes featherlight it's easier to carry home.

I was checking out the pictures of the 06 models on Ryan Youngs site. At first sight they look great, but on closer inspection something looks wrong about the two stroke. It looks like Sherco are trying to have the 4 & 2 strokes share as many components as possible, but if so does this mean the design is primarily to improve the 4 stroke and has the 2 stroke been left with less than ideal parts. take the frame; it looks great on the four stroke but on the other bike there is too much unused space above the cylinder head. This could have allowed for a bigger fuel tank allowing a capacity more useful than the puny 2.8 litres quoted. Also the location of the electrics looks suspect on the two stroke, hanging above the carb. Are they trying to use the same tank & air box as well? Anybody got any ideas or better yet any knowledge of how many components the models share?

has the new bike got the rear mudguard that tails off into a point, like shown in the first pictures released, or did they stick with the more conventional shape? Also does anyone know if the spec. for the 200 has changed any? Ta.

When ever the 200 has been tested in T&MX they ahve note that even experienced expert riders can get better results on the 200 on certain types of sections. I remember Birkett suggesting that it was the perfect bike for the SSDT. I've never noticed anyone using one in the six days and have always wondered if it would be up to the job.

My guess would be that your bike has got the improved 06 electrics fitted. The 05 CDI & stator were still giving trouble so your bike has the benefit of improved parts from next years model. Saves Lampkin having to deal with yet another warranty claim in a couple of months time, if he upgrades your bike before sale.

Anyone know if you can buy these in Britain and who might be stocking them? Also what fittings would I need if putting one on an old 01 TXT? Cheers.

Anybody seen anything about an 06 model. Any chance of a new blue, more shapely mudguard. Also any chance that any of these mods., youre all talking about being might be incorporated into an updated 06 bike?

Anyone know anything about OKO carbs. They look very like the Keihin but seem to be selling in Spain for a lot less money. Are they well made and are they available in Britain? I'd be interested in hearing any feedback from anyone who's tried one. cheers.

what year is your bike? before Gas Gas started using Marzochi forks they're own ones were not that well made. Often the machining of the lower leg was poor and the bush holder was made oversize. Take each fork leg off the bike, clamp the lower leg in a vice, grab the end of the stanchion and check for lateral play at the bush. I had this problem on my 01 TXT. The stanchion moved around in the bush until it opened up the seal. Al the spanner advised me how to modify the bush to take up the play. You have to build up solder on the outer side of the bush and then machine or sand the surface down until you get the right tolerance. It can take a while but it will fix the problem. After I did it I ran the same seals for 3 years. Prior to that they lasted three months. The problem was common. Lots of guys just resigned themselves to changing the seals regularly or hiding the problem behind gaiters. Good luck.