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lbhbul

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Posts posted by lbhbul
 
 
  1. Jon, It is in fact a 5 speed, the alloy side panels are not there, alloy fenders replaced w/Gonelli's

    mayhap the man has these put up somewhere, that would be nice, the seat would also be good,

    side stand also.

    I don't have a picture of a Mod 27 that I can post, they can be found on the net.

    By the way where are you?

    Good luck,& ask away.

    Larry

  2. Have noticed a problem with after market points here, in that the rub block is so much longer than my originals

    that it is necessary to grind the block to match (close enough) in order to be able to utilize the eccentric adjusting

    screw, don't have any new points on hand so cant help there, however the new Femsa condensers for me are a

    no go.

    Someone will know for sure on the length. Interesting though.

    Larry

  3. For what it's worth I have used with great success for many years on any points

    ignition encountered, comes from most auto supply house's;

    Ford 302 ci/5 liter from 60/70's era, condenser mounted @ coil mount under tank.

    GOOD GROUND REQUIRED.

    Larry

  4. big_e, Hope you can show us what it looks like now.

    A good spot would be on thread Tell Us About The History of your Bully

    I am sure we would all enjoy the story.

    PS Silly me, nice bike.

    Larry

  5. Trum, 0.35 to o.45; .013 to .017 is correct per the manual,however it is not law IMHO.

    Point setting with flywheel in place is a pain, best done w/bike laying down.

    Don't know why it wont fire @ spec setting, But if we are firing somewhere in tolerance

    timing wise, so be it.(as long as it fires)!!

    You are probably going to move the backing plate if you are to far out of spec to MAINTAIN

    the point gap you now have.(a little point gap change= lot of timing change)

    Be sure when removing & replacing flywheel have key way @ 6:00 so as not to bump points with cam.

    Larry

  6. Trum, If it is running, leave it alone for now.(trial tomorrow)

    You do have an automotive condenser under the tank???

    Next week, time it close with dial indicator/or vernier gauge.

    Something is amiss, you don't say how close the points are.

    Good luck tomorrow.

    Larry

  7. Agree with milling,but as noted difficult to set up.

    I made the mistake of having one welded (only because of polished 151 case) now we have messed up threads

    for clutch adjustment plug! Luckily have a mill & lathe so can fix this mess (hardheaded).

    So I wont weld anymore, to many covers to be had out there.

    Fix the black covers as Patrik shows.

    Larry

  8. I would guess that the wet or dry paper fixed to a nice flat surface & lots of elbow

    grease is a for sure way to get it flat.

    A way of repairing Bull cases that has worked forever is a clean inside surface,roughed

    up well, & a polyester resin & glass patch in place of welding when possible.

    Wont fix your problem very well now, but in the future.

    Larry

    • Like 1
  9. post-14329-0-22519300-1421947954_thumb.jpgThe short answer is no, however do some machine work ect, on a young mans M 199 Sherpa T that I know has been to

    your riding area in NATC rounds.

    We are currently working on a better rear brake & a freshening up on cosmetics.

    Lane has been here riding several times along with others,the local club hosted 1977 National less than a mile away Good luck with the SM project & keep us advised on the fun.

    Larry

  10. Fine job to say the least!!!

    Really looking good, the air box choice is good as the works riders seemed to prefer them instead

    of the poor quality plastic used on our bikes.

    I believe I see a VM26 Mikuni, also the better choice in my opinion.

    Now you must go for a proper test ride & please report back.

    Larry

  11. Scott,

    The Mod 92 does have Miller frame #29x, it was I think 1 of 3 around here in 1973 that broke the front down tube @ the lower

    edge of the gusset, I traded a titanium rear axel for it, tubed inside & welded back, cut the gusset per factory spec. and off we go.

    Had to do something to dampen the shaking engine (no head steady back then) so after engine mounts started cracking, added

    a turn buckle from front head bolt to frame gusset, stopped that foolishness.

    It lives @ my son's home now.

    The old truck 75 3/4 Chev. bought new, bike hauler ect.

    Larry

    • Like 2
  12. Thanks for all the replies everyone, a great help! I got her running again!! I shortened the ht lead, also checked wires under the tank which all seem ok and not dis coloured, I also did re gap the points as well although they seemed ok, And she started again first kick, there did however seem a small amount of moisture in the mag cover im not sure how as it has a gasket and all done up tight, but I wonder if the magneto could have also been damp or wet, I will purchase a puller this week to take mag off so I can clean it/dry it, but for now I just run it and rode it for some time to dry it out, thanks for all the info everyone it helped lots

    Before you complete the task, I am certain from your post mag case is not vented & it MUST be or it will sweat & cause the above moisture problem, further please clean

    the points, clean business card in narrow strips, small screw driver to separate points, do not let points snap and grab a bit of paper; lastly, I'm sure you have an automotive

    condenser under the tank. Almost forgot NGK Iridium plug for long life.

    Have a good day

    Larry

    • Like 1
  13. Greeves To help answer your question; checked for ally nipples as follows;

    m49, m92, m199, 199a, would guess more but these were at hand.

    Don't know what after market might be, probably some sort of 400 series

    stainless (magnetic).

    Original spokes non magnetic.(mine anyway)

    Hope this helps.

    Larry

  14. Wish I could have seen a B model, they just weren't around here, so A model

    is the latest & not to many of those, don't remember any 250's after Model 92

    325's were here, (got to have a beast), they were & are arm pullers still

    as compared to our 199's (different head design I guess) as the later bikes

    seemed to be softer on the bottom but I think they would rev a little higher,

    bore, stroke, piston same, (later 325 cases used a longer intake skirt).

    Now we can use some of the Pursang pistons, ah the beauty of Bultaco engineering!!!

    Larry

    • Like 1
  15. Well I guess there is nothing left to do but to tell off on myself again as apparently all is quiet out

    there???

    Received a present in the mail recently 20 years of twin shock 65/85 , lots of pictures, as I and my

    riding buddies came from dirt bike backgrounds we wore lace up tall lines mans leather boots, needless to

    say not to whippy for walking wet sections, so in looking at all the great pictures of the European riders

    of that era reminded me of the hot setup for us, Genuine Dunlop Steel Toe/Steel Shank Trials Boots (so we

    thought) now we know Fire Mans Boots, but at the time we were cool, nice & dry but boy, cold & could you

    ever hurt yourself. Top off with a Belstaff jacket, no hat,(had hair then),now this came prior to our first

    REAL TRIALS BIKE, and our waterproof riding jacket was an old hunting coat.

    The first Bul in our little group, well worn M49 that we all loved, and that started the Love Affair.

    Larry

    • Like 1
 
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